Another one bites the dust - a few questions

[downwardspiral]

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while. I was running the vortech v3si kit for about 2 years now and it let go after a day of abuse at the track (after driving it 3 hours there). I just pulled my motor and I'm getting ready to take it apart. I'd like to start this thread to find the right direction. Here are my questions (for now)

- What do I need to do to remove the cylinder heads without losing valves? I know 2Vs have a "safe zone" where you can mark the chains and take them off without damage.. I tried searching various phrases and didn't seem to find an answer specific to the coyote.

- Does Ford still sell the Boss Rotator? It seems to be discontinued. I could just be really bad at searching, but I usually find what I'm looking for. I want to replace this on the cheap, I'd rather fix it again than spend the money to fix it right this time. I don't have the money to fix it right and won't for a while.

Yesterday's progress

Pulled it out with the trans attached in my driveway with the help of 2 of my buddies.

 

[92fiveohfox]

Don't know the answers to your questions, but anymore details on your build? What was it running before it let go?

 

[downwardspiral]

It was pretty much stock otherwise. I had a local tuner do the tune and I wasn't really happy with it. Made 570/460 through stock exhaust with a home made intake pipe. I was at the track before on the stock vortech tune and ran 11.70@122 on street tires. This time I only went 11.60@117 on slicks, mph kept dropping till it smoked alot. No cel or anything though, but the crankcase pressure forced oil through the seals. I have low compression on cylinders 2, 3 +4. I just want to put it back together and drive it for a while, I have another mustang that needs an engine to lol. Here is a link to the best pass that day https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_lvKAxBDXY8

 

[redline5.0]

Can you still rotate the crank at all? To remove the first timing chain which is the LH side (drivers) set the keyway to 12 oclock and you can remove the primary chain. Then you can do th RH side (passenger) with the keyway at 9 oclock and remove the primary timing chain for that side. Then you can slide the phasers off and pull the cams if you need to, don't remember if you have to pull the cams to get to the head bolts or not. Also I have a lot of the ford service manual printed to a pdf and can send them too you if you need them.

 

[downwardspiral]

Can you still rotate the crank at all? To remove the first timing chain which is the LH side (drivers) set the keyway to 12 oclock and you can remove the primary chain. Then you can do th RH side (passenger) with the keyway at 9 oclock and remove the primary timing chain for that side. Then you can slide the phasers off and pull the cams if you need to, don't remember if you have to pull the cams to get to the head bolts or not. Also I have a lot of the ford service manual printed to a pdf and can send them too you if you need them.

Thanks for the quick response, I can turn the crank. I could drive it but it smokes, I mean it still ran a 12.0 with no check engine light lol.
I'll take it apart this week and put up more pictures if I get stuck.

Edit: is 12 o clock in reference to the flat surface of the head or the ground (or flat surface where oil pan mounts)?

 

[stangn]

Crankshaft keyway straight up 12 o'clock

 

[redline5.0]

Thanks for the quick response, I can turn the crank. I could drive it but it smokes, I mean it still ran a 12.0 with no check engine light lol.
I'll take it apart this week and put up more pictures if I get stuck.

Edit: is 12 o clock in reference to the flat surface of the head or the ground (or flat surface where oil pan mounts)?

What stangn said, there is a keyway on the crank and the pulley, thats what you want at 12 and 9.

 

[downwardspiral]

What stangn said, there is a keyway on the crank and the pulley, thats what you want at 12 and 9.

I read it as camshaft for some reason. What threw me off is that the cam spins half as fat as the crank, it could be in 2 positions and the crank could be at 12 o clock. I think I found some helpful pictures in the comp cam install instructions as far as cam alignment with respect to crank angle. Thanks guys I'm making progress haha
http://www.americanmuscle.com/compcams-xfinsr-camshafts-1112gt-install.html

 

[gimmie11s]

Sub.

What pulley were you running?

 

[redline5.0]

I read it as camshaft for some reason. What threw me off is that the cam spins half as fat as the crank, it could be in 2 positions and the crank could be at 12 o clock. I think I found some helpful pictures in the comp cam install instructions as far as cam alignment with respect to crank angle. Thanks guys I'm making progress haha
http://www.americanmuscle.com/compcams-xfinsr-camshafts-1112gt-install.html

Just make sure the cam qr code stamps are up and you will be good.

 

[downwardspiral]

Sub.

What pulley were you running?

The stock one with the Vortech kit. I'd see peak boost of 15 psi though, I don't know what was up with that. My guess is restriction from the exhaust system, partially because of this:

Could have also been a shotgun blast from my piston exploding though.

Just make sure the cam qr code stamps are up and you will be good.

Awesome thanks again, that makes it easy to remember.

 

[Famine]

Can I get these sent to me as well?

 

[Ortasscotty]

What injectors were you running ? Also did you have a BAP? Something is not sounding right 15 psi on a stock pulley, how is that possible ?

 

[downwardspiral]

What injectors were you running ? Also did you have a BAP? Something is not sounding right 15 psi on a stock pulley, how is that possible ?

The ones that came with the vortech kit, and no BAP. Yeah it's whacky, something had to be restricted flow-wise to raise the pressure like that. It's also possible my gauge is off, but it read proper vacuum and stayed 0 when the car was off

 

[downwardspiral]

I destroyed my valves on my Mountaineer last year changing the timing chain, so I learned my lesson. I also realized I paid $100 for a piece of stamped steel and decided to make my own tool this time around. If it works out I will share the engineering drawing with the community, I'll even look into a small production run if anyone would be interested in a cheap set of cam holding tools. This is really the last step before I see what I destroyed in my engine, I should be able to get these on the mill at work tomorrow.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

I have a write up on here for the whole timing component procedure to do for oil pump gear R/R. You do not need a cam holding tool on this engine at all, just mark and be done with it.

 

[downwardspiral]

I have a write up on here for the whole timing component procedure to do for oil pump gear R/R. You do not need a cam holding tool on this engine at all, just mark and be done with it.

My friend said the same thing when I did the chains on the mountaineer lol, I guess I'm just lucky

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Just saying. I have done a few of them.

 

[downwardspiral]

Just saying. I have done a few of them.

Well thanks, I read a few writeups and talked to a few people about it and they said the same. I would feel like a dick if I heard the piston to valve clink again. Can you verify that the cams need to be removed to pull the heads? It looks like the back bolt isnt accessible because the reluctor wheel on the cam is in the way.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Yes you have to pull the cams to take the heads off. Just mark everything and you will be good to go.