Dang Mark, I do owe you some cold Lone Star....
American Iron Coyote Cobra Swap
- Thread starter Mystic_Cobra
- Start date
Dang Mark, I do owe you some cold Lone Star....
Long live longnecks and Lone Star Beer! :beer:
It's working, just a lil off 
Here's a bit of Coyote speed signal swap info I have collected:
Coyote Crate Swap VSS details
When running a Coyote crate swap in an SN95 car, you run the OSS signal to Pin 14 and the return to pin 38 of the 50 pin connector.
An OSS does not need a recalibrator, but A VSS will. Set the FRPP recalibrator to 1-1-1
Coyote Crate Swap VSS details
When running a Coyote crate swap in an SN95 car, you run the OSS signal to Pin 14 and the return to pin 38 of the 50 pin connector.
An OSS does not need a recalibrator, but A VSS will. Set the FRPP recalibrator to 1-1-1
Here are Ford's instructions:
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Coyote-Speed-Dial-Instructions1.pdf
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Coyote-Speed-Dial-Instructions1.pdf
I should clarify.
An OSS puts out about 32K pulses per mile while a VSS puts out about 8000 pulses per mile.
If you are running an OSS transmission, you run the OSS signal to the PCM, but you need the FRPP recalibrator to adjust the signal to the speedometer down to 8K pulses per mile.
If you are running a VSS transmission, you run the VSS signal to the speedometer, but you need the FRPP recalibrator to adjust the signal up for the Coyote PCM.
FYI, the Dallas Mustang Speedcal will not work for these swaps because the Speedcal adds a 6VDC bias to the OSS/VSS signal at the sensor. This will screw up anything directly attached to the VSS/OSS sensor.
An OSS puts out about 32K pulses per mile while a VSS puts out about 8000 pulses per mile.
If you are running an OSS transmission, you run the OSS signal to the PCM, but you need the FRPP recalibrator to adjust the signal to the speedometer down to 8K pulses per mile.
If you are running a VSS transmission, you run the VSS signal to the speedometer, but you need the FRPP recalibrator to adjust the signal up for the Coyote PCM.
FYI, the Dallas Mustang Speedcal will not work for these swaps because the Speedcal adds a 6VDC bias to the OSS/VSS signal at the sensor. This will screw up anything directly attached to the VSS/OSS sensor.
Another thing to consider. The fan relay in the Coyote control unit is sized for 40A fans while the SN95 fan relays in the CCRM are sized for 60A fans. It is possible to melt down the control unit relay.
It is much safer to run the fan through the stock CCRM. Here's a writeup about this, which has been tested by Golddust and Beancrusher:
View attachment CoyoteSwapFanDiagramR1.jpg
It is much safer to run the fan through the stock CCRM. Here's a writeup about this, which has been tested by Golddust and Beancrusher:
View attachment CoyoteSwapFanDiagramR1.jpg
Looks like I need to get the FRPP Speed-Cal regardless....
I don't think it will be that difficult to make the OEM cluster work...
What gauges are working now? Your tach is off in its own little world, true. Voltmeter looks to be working? Fuel gauge? Spedo? If the last three were working before the swap, they should be working now since those circuits should be outside of connectors that would have been futzed with in the swap. What about the battery light?
Temp and oil pressure will likely require running some wires to the cluster, since those wires ran through the 4.6 engine harness. For the temp you will need to find a coolant temp sender that is for the instrument cluster, not one for the PCM. There were two in '96s anyway...I think there were still 2 different senders in '97. You will need to install the sensor in the engine somewhere, likely in the block down by the oil filter and run one wire to ground and another either up to the cluster, or to the connector in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side where the 4.6 engine harness connected, if it was not removed during the swap. I *think* this would connect to a red wire with white stripe at pin 6 of that connector.
For oil pressure, I *assume* that the Coyote OP sender can be used...I believe it is a 6PSI switch, similar to the 4.6s. The Coyote PCM does not need the OP switch to be connected for any reason (this from Ford), thus I removed mine and the associated wires from the Coyote harness. So, you could hijack that OP pressure switch and run the "non ground" wire from the switch similarly to the temp sender, or, to be sure, remove the Coyote OP switch, install a 4.6 switch and run the wire. (Or, you could do this too:http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/Interior/AccurateTempAndOPGauges /AccurateTempAndOPGagues.htm among other options) This would connect to a white wire with red stripe at pin 31 at that connector...*maybe*
Sorry to hijack your thread Mystic, but here is how my RPM wiring (tan/yellow wire) from the Coyote control pack
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Sorry, I had to take it down. Just realized that was from a HUD shift light that I had installed by a friend years ago. Now I feel like an idiot....lol.
I don't mind the hijack. My next build will appreciate the extra content.
I would think making the tach work would be fairly simple since there is a tach wire in the control pack harness. IIRC, I used that to splice and signal my aftermarket shift light. I also get a tach signal from the OBD2 port into my AIM dash but that doesn't apply here.
I would think making the tach work would be fairly simple since there is a tach wire in the control pack harness. IIRC, I used that to splice and signal my aftermarket shift light. I also get a tach signal from the OBD2 port into my AIM dash but that doesn't apply here.
I know. I need to get a terminal tool so I can remove the pin for the original tach wire and see if I can just plug in the Coyote tach wire into the stock gauge. Only one way to find out
I use an old dental pick to depin those connectors.
I apologize if I overlooked it in previous posts but did you swap out the OEM F-150 oil pump? I'm also doing this swap into my 87 fox and I've been reading nothing but negative things about the F-150 oil pumps as compared to the mustang counterparts, thoughts?
I'm not the OP, but I also did a swap with an F-150 motor. Since I had the front cover off to swap for one compatible with the PBH accessory kit, and also to install the new/improved chain tensioner (TSB), I swapped the oil pump to the Mustang pump. I couldn't notice any difference between the two, but it's cheap and probably a good idea to do no matter what.
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