Aluminator on nitrous

NTXRockr

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Has anyone done nitrous on their 11:1 aluminator yet? I'm debating doing a built shortblock with forged pistons and h beam rods, boss crank and springs, and go with 12:1cr, comp cam stage 3's and longtubes...excluding the cams and lt's, I'm looking at around $5k just for the shortblock before final assembly. That's hoping the heads are ok as well. All in all, I'm looking at close to $7k if all goes well with the build...that's just for a built shortblock and assembling with my stock heads.

If I decided to sacrifice the higher compression, the aluminator seems to be a turnkey option for about the same price. I plan on doing billet oil pump gears and head cooling mod on both, so no difference there. The only difference I see is I'm stuck with 11:1cr and the choice of rods and (more importantly) pistons.

Am I missing any pertinent info? Will the Mahle pistons in the aluminator handle the abuse of a 150-200+ shot or should I look into the built option with Diamond, Weisco, JE, or other beefier pistons? Should I bore over stock? I realize that I'm compromising between a full nitrous build and a beast of a n/a motor (I'm shooting for 500whp n/a) but its a dd that sees the track 1-3 times per month. Any and all responses appreciated (even the lurking smartasses lol). Thanks! :beer:
 

Tuffnuts23

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I'm interested to hear some responses too! That seems like pretty sweet setup. I don't see why an aluminator would have any trouble with a 200 shot when alot of guys have been spraying 150 shots on stock coyotes without a problem.
 

NitrousExpress

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I don't think this will be an issue for you at all! You should give Blow By Racing a call, they are really knowledgable on the coyote platform. If you have any nitrous related questions, give me a ring. A stock coyote will do 150 all day!

-Garrett
 

D.T.R

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If there are people going low 9s, and making around 1000whp with boost on the aluminator, i don't see why it wouldn't handle a 200 shot?
 

SC2011GT

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If my old aluminator will take 21 psi and a 75 shot, I think you could spray the snot out of it...
 

NTXRockr

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Well I sprayed about a dozen 10/15# bottles through my stock coyote on a 150 shot (and another 8-10 on a 100 shot), and was about to give a 200 on torco a try until #6 rod complained by coming through the block (it let go on motor coming out of a burnout...of all times to go). I made 372/336 on motor and 485/500 on the 150 on a hungry dyno, so roughly 410/360 and 520/540. That's really low for it to let go compared to boost guys putting low to mid 600s down without issue.

That's what I'm really worried about, these coyote pistons seem to do ok with boost but don't like nitrous, whether its the wrist pin, ring lands or rod letting go or just busting through the piston face. I'm sure a diamond piston would take the abuse just find, but I'm not impressed with the Mahle's at all. I'm hoping the forged upgraded ones in the aluminator can handle at least a 200 shot, but I don't really want to be the guinea pig to try and find out...unless someone wants me to test it for them LOL.
 

JUIC3D

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Well I sprayed about a dozen 10/15# bottles through my stock coyote on a 150 shot (and another 8-10 on a 100 shot), and was about to give a 200 on torco a try until #6 rod complained by coming through the block (it let go on motor coming out of a burnout...of all times to go). I made 372/336 on motor and 485/500 on the 150 on a hungry dyno, so roughly 410/360 and 520/540. That's really low for it to let go compared to boost guys putting low to mid 600s down without issue.

That's what I'm really worried about, these coyote pistons seem to do ok with boost but don't like nitrous, whether its the wrist pin, ring lands or rod letting go or just busting through the piston face. I'm sure a diamond piston would take the abuse just find, but I'm not impressed with the Mahle's at all. I'm hoping the forged upgraded ones in the aluminator can handle at least a 200 shot, but I don't really want to be the guinea pig to try and find out...unless someone wants me to test it for them LOL.

Who tuned the car? I lost count on how many bottles I've put through my car but it's a lot more than 8 or 10 and so far so good.

How much timing was pulled for the 100 shot? for the 150 shot?
 

NTXRockr

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Who tuned the car? I lost count on how many bottles I've put through my car but it's a lot more than 8 or 10 and so far so good.

How much timing was pulled for the 100 shot? for the 150 shot?

I've put at least 20 bottles through it, car ran great until that night. Tuned by xxx performance here locally. Tune was pretty spot on, ran 11.8 wot on bottle and 12.5 on motor every time and never knocked or pinged so much as once. Timing was initially pulled 4* for the 100 and 6* for the 150, but on the dyno we adjusted it a little more and it ran great. Not sure on the final timing numbers though, it's been a few months.

We won't know for sure what killed it until its torn apart, but the tune is low on my list of culprits at the moment. I've heard the wrist pins on the early coyotes were known to fail prematurely and usually when coming out of power (guess its due to reverse of forces from combustion down to slinging it back up?), and my car was a December 2010 build so its possible. Only visible damage was in the top of the valley near the base of the cylinder wall where the rod popped up and just cracked the block enough to lose oil pressure. It still runs (terrible sounding with the clacking rod lol) and I drove it onto and off the trailer. I'll know more soon enough, interested to see what failed.
 

SC2011GT

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I'm not impressed with the Mahle's at all. I'm hoping the forged upgraded ones in the aluminator can handle at least a 200 shot

What don't you like about the Mahles? What do you mean the "forged upgraded ones"? In reference to what other Mahles?
 

JUIC3D

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I've put at least 20 bottles through it, car ran great until that night. Tuned by xxx performance here locally. Tune was pretty spot on, ran 11.8 wot on bottle and 12.5 on motor every time and never knocked or pinged so much as once. Timing was initially pulled 4* for the 100 and 6* for the 150, but on the dyno we adjusted it a little more and it ran great. Not sure on the final timing numbers though, it's been a few months.

We won't know for sure what killed it until its torn apart, but the tune is low on my list of culprits at the moment. I've heard the wrist pins on the early coyotes were known to fail prematurely and usually when coming out of power (guess its due to reverse of forces from combustion down to slinging it back up?), and my car was a December 2010 build so its possible. Only visible damage was in the top of the valley near the base of the cylinder wall where the rod popped up and just cracked the block enough to lose oil pressure. It still runs (terrible sounding with the clacking rod lol) and I drove it onto and off the trailer. I'll know more soon enough, interested to see what failed.

93 octane? What was total timing before nitrous? .84 lambda is pretty lean for a nitrous car motor that thrives on fuel. I'm curious to see what you find out when it's all torn apart.
 
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D.T.R

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Again, i don't see what is wrong with the aluminators when they're holding up low 9, 150mph passes... at that point the factory block is more of a concern than the pistons.
 

NTXRockr

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What don't you like about the Mahles? What do you mean the "forged upgraded ones"? In reference to what other Mahles?

He is referring to the stock mahle pistons.

Seems kind of hard to compare a forged diamond vs. a forged Mahle when your (his) reference is a cast hyper piston, thats all.

That's part of my question...are the upgraded pistons in the aluminator (forged Mahle's) that much stronger than the hypereutectic cast ones in the stock coyote? Are they as good or close to a Diamond or other forged piston? It seems like the pistons in built shortblocks use a different alloy, which might have something to do with handling nitrous/boost better.

The other part of my question is to do with the design of the pistons. I've read and been told that the stock and aluminator pistons have little material between the piston face and the rings, which may be a weak design for nitrous. Is this accurate or nothing to worry about on a lower shot?

I'm not knocking the aluminator at all, just the opposite. I'd love to use it but I want to make sure it'll handle my uses before forking out almost $8k and then have it fail on me.
 

NTXRockr

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93 octane? What was total timing before nitrous? .84 lambda is pretty lean for a nitrous car motor that thrives on fuel. I'm curious to see what you find out when it's all torn apart.

It was on 93, I was going to run torco with the 200 shot and eventually planned to run urt or other unleaded race gas. I want to say it was 21* on the 100 and 19* on the 150, but again don't quote me on that. Tune was pretty conservative but things happen.
 

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