You'll burn one up being to fat way before you will to lean
Aluminator on nitrous
- Thread starter NTXRockr
- Start date
You'll burn one up being to fat way before you will to lean
The aluminator is just about a cobrajet motor so I don't think there is anything to worry about. The same people build both.
The Aluminator Mahles, like any other forged piston are going to be far better than the cast pieces. Are they as good as a Diamond? I think that is a question relative to intended use. I think in a stock block application, the Mahle is more than enough. The block will most likely reach its breaking point before the piston fails. If I was going to build an L&M engine, with a supported block, I'd run whatever piston they call for. The Diamond is probably a better piston, but that is not to say a Mahle is bad.
I'm not making 1100 + hp, but at my 900-950 I've had no issues with the Aluminator.
I think the piston design excuse may stem from tuning errors. When you start rattling a motor, weak links will be magnified. I'd say if the tuner isn't rattling the motor, you'll never see a piston failure in an Aluminator.
I don't think a 200 shot is going to phase one of these motors. It will probably take whatever you want to throw at it, for a long time, assuming it is tuned correctly. You can build a 25K dollar bad boy motor and a sub par tune will kill it as quickly as anything else.
Just my .02 cents and experience :burnout:
Good points. I'm looking at pushing 500whp on it n/a then running at least a 200 shot, so I know 700-800whp is well within its limits. I just worry that nitrous is like hitting it with a sledgehammer versus boost having a fat chick sit on it LOL. And yes, the tune is critical...because I'm going with longtubes and stage 3 comp cams this time I'll likely use AED or possibly one of the experienced tuners here in Florida. I only wish they offered a higher compression over 11:1, but I guess I can make due with JUST stock compression haha
PD compressors hit the motor pretty hard, too. You can run a progressive nitrous controller if you want to taper the nitrous in. I do.
Power By The Hour is in Florida :thumbsup:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...uYRti3ia7RUUmhTbg&sig2=1xeP0vvHBJmVdMumlS4t5Q there video out also on a 300 shot I think out there
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That car was all over the place lol...my best on the 150 was 10.5x@130. I didn't get a slip due to being a grudge event and was told by the tower afterward, but unfortunately my only quarter mile pass on nitrous. Fastest 1/8 slip I have is 6.77@104 1.55 60' spinning through the tree, 2000' DA and launching/hitting the spray from idle.
As far as using a progressive, do you feel you lose some torque on launch or do your 60' times suffer? I use a handheld launch control button...previously used a wot/tps/window switch but it wasn't consistent and eventually failed on me by bursting into flames - literally LOL :fm:
No, but it is a supercharged car. The nitrous comes on in second gear, more chemical intercooling than a power adder. I ramp it in pretty quickly, but again, only 50-75 hp of nitrous.
Timing is on the conservative side if those are the peak numbers. Sorry about the breakage and good luck with the new chapter :beer:
100% agree. "Too rich or too lean" are relative terms though. Stock coyote runs .82 lambda so I don't think .79 on a 150 shot is rich by any means but I do think .84 lambda on a 150 shot is on the lean side for the coyote.
I think he said 11.8 was his A/F, to me is pretty good, could probably even be leaned up more, unless the plugs showed other wise. The only way for him to truly know if his tuneup is good is to check plugs after a run, A/F isn't always spot on, plugs don't tell any lies.
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I agree on the plug reading. It's the only true way to know but it ses nobody reads plugs anymore.
11.8 is .836 lambda- leaner than the factory tune commands on motor. 12.5 is .886 lambda, again--pretty lean on a car that seems to prefer the extra fuel. Each car is different though.
11.8 is .836 lambda- leaner than the factory tune commands on motor. 12.5 is .886 lambda, again--pretty lean on a car that seems to prefer the extra fuel. Each car is different though.
Yeah but you can't tune NOS based on the the factory tune. Meaning just because the a/f stock is at let's say 12.5 doesn't mean when spraying it you need to try and get at 12.5.
CPRsm
Active Member
No one checks plugs. The engine has knock sensors Dustin! Lol
I'm not saying you tune it based on the factory tune, I'm just saying that every motor is different. The numbers I quoted are just for reference--a starting point.
LS is not the same as modular which is not the same as coyote. Different motors have different characteristics and just because an LS motor runs best at .86 lambda or whatever, doesn't mean the coyote will automatically run best at that same fueling.
I've spent around 12-15 hours on the dyno playing with different fueling and timing on motor and spray with my car. I found that it responded best with plenty of fuel so I give it what it likes. Just my $.02. YRMV
Lol, silly me, I tend to check mine, then again I do have 3 systems with a total of about 700 worth of spray.
My point is safe hp, you could throw tons of timing at it and make more power, but that doesn't mean it's going to live.
Again, I agree 100%. I prefer the safest route possible. To give you an idea, I pull over 10* on the hit with my baby 150 shot..
Knocking it's dick in the dirt lol...I think we're on the same page, I just like to look at plugs to determine timing and fuel.
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yes! But the motor lives with many bottles run through it thusfar.. my rear end on the other hand.. ugh. :beer:
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