5.4 4v compound boost gt47-88 with eaton on top

Mustang Matt

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Sorry I missed that.

I haven't seen anyone use a TVS for compound boost yet, but I would be interested in reading about the results.
 

yan88gt

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I'm not an expert on compound boost... I know it has some benefits, but I just can't get over the feeling that the benefits are, in large part, being outweighed by the parasitic losses associated with driving the blower.

Someone else in here immediately shot my suggestion down to run a more efficient blower, claiming you can't run a twin screw on a compound boost setup. OK. Well, then why not find a more efficient roots blower that takes less HP to spin.

Think of it this way: Let's assume that your blower adds 100 HP at the wheels. But it takes 100 HP to run the blower. Therefore, the blower must add 200 HP to the crank in order to produce 100 HP at the wheels. There's a point of diminishing returns.

If you want to stay compound boost, get a ROOTS blower that is more efficient and takes less HP to drive. That's free power.

Here in his case, the eaton take 35 flywheel hp spinning the blower at 12 000 rpm. There's no need in his case to go with a more efficient blower since the blower doesn't have much effort feeding a 5.4 at very low blower speed. People often forget that the M112 is efficient at reasonable blower speed. Of course most of us spin the hell out of those blowers and take them out of their efficiency range.


Here in this case with a 5.4, the m112 efficiency is greatly improved producing a calculated 4.7 psi. Having such low boost from the blower reduce the overall multiplication of the pressure from the turbo. Very little efficiency could be gain with a bigger blower or tvs at such low boost.
 
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yan88gt

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I remember seeing a windsor with compounded turbo's like on diesel's on theturboforums a few years ago. It was a gray notch but the last time i read about it, it was not completed.
 
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yan88gt

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EDIT: finally find it. It was white notch not grey. As you can see in the thread below, it was 7 years ago.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/general-discussion-6/sequential-turbo-mustang-43343/


texastrip0004.jpg
 
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tt335ci03cobra

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This build is awesome and has me excited to finish mine. You've made great power and are running times faster than I expected to run at those power levels. 8's will be within reach for ya with just 1-2psi more and new tires for sure.

I think I can do better than I hoped based on your awesome results so far. I have an IRS though but it's built and runs 1.50's cake, might crack 1.45's on brand new slicks/skinnies. I like the idea of the eaten for low end especially on a huge single, good choice. I'm just running simple twins but even with a Sullivan intake my power is more than great. Lag is only an issue below 2800rpms in 3rd-6th and barely at that. Mines too torquy so we've got a 3.08 rear and run 28" tires. It makes 920tq at 4300rpms on 18psi which just spins under 100.

I made 885whp on 18psi with just twin 57's on my 9.2/1 modular but the waste gates were wide open (48mm hot side). Seeing you make similar power and hit 9.30's has me giddy to get to the track next summer.

We're putting 61/60's on this winter with a custom 3-3.25" turbo back setup. Should be in the 8's with traction while keeping good torque. I'll be with a smooth 1050whp on 28psi from 5400-6500rpms but my tuner says itll make 1100+ pretty easy that high, hoping. I haven't had any lag issues with the 57's, I bet the 61's will feel pretty good too. The better a/r and hotside going from a 48 to a 60 is what will up the power dramatically from what I was told. Right now the 57's fully spool 18psi by 3600rpms so I'm guessing the 62's will fully spool 28psi by 5000, that said though it won't feel laggy because it'll easily make 12psi by 3000rpms which should make 700wtq easily even that low in the rev band. Wheeeeel spiiin haha

Good luck on your build and I'm gonna subscribe, can't wait to see your rig cross 8's with a stick and full interior, that will be so badass man. Congrats.

Based on these specs, do you think i can sneak into the 8's as well with the 61/60's? cheers.

yjymyhy4.jpg


-9.2/1 5.4
-stock 03 cobra heads, lightly massaged
-stock 03 cams/valves/arp studs,
gaskets
-Kellogg crank, manly rods/pistons.
-that graph is just 18psi on the 57's with a minor vacuum leak and a very rich low rpm tune on pump gas, we didn't bother higher octane because the 57's were maxed.
-the 3.08 28" setup hits 65,100,140,180 so I'll probably have to hit 4th unless I run a taller tire/rev it out to 7200-scary piston speed though.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Also, what are you running for fuel and spark? We just installed a boost-a-spark and fuel voltage regulator because of minor vapor lock as well as a ba3000 maf sensor and some minor supporting mods. Aeromotive lines, and a magnafuel 2000 with 72# injectors. Seeing as you've made more power with less fuel system, do you think I'm running too much fuel and overheating it because of the return style system circulating too much fuel? Any thoughts/advice is greatly welcomed.

I noticed the eaton you have is pullied around 8psi, have you had any belt slip issues with it yet? How is the 6 rib holding up? What were the altitude and track conditions like on your 9.2/9.3 passes? I'm at 4600ft so up here ill be happy running 9.40's with the 61/60's but I hope to hit 8.60's or better at sea level for mustang week with a lot of luck haha
 

fastmustang70

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no belt slip what so ever cause the belt is so short goes right from the crank right up to the blower it was 80 degrees out the day i went to the track and sunny warm. The track i run at is only 730ft above sea level your car if it makes that power should run i have a boost aspark on my car as well your going to need a two step forsure to leave on boost i have the n2mb one with the no lift shift in it to. I would hope you have a twin disc clutch as well
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Good to know, thanks for the info. I'm running the m2mb and leave at 3400 rpm with 12psi on sticky tires but just clutch roll a 2500 launch on street tires.

I think with the 61/60's I'll have to leave at about 3k with a clutch roll on street tires and 38-4000 on slick.

How's your in town drivability and coolant temps on a decent drive? Mine stay pretty cold but I'm getting a slight drop in rpms when some of my accessory drives kick on but it pulls right back up, it's like a 1-150rpm drop. Have you noticed any small similar quirks with your 5.4?

Also, what kind of torque numbers are you making below the curve from 2-4,000 rpms? Possible dyno pic? I'd be interested to see how your low end is. I haven't done much research on twin charge setups so I'm learning a lot from what you've showed about your build.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Ya I have a McLeod street twin and use the m2mb Wotbox as well. we just rebuilt the t56 with carbon fiber, bronze, etc. I had viper 5/6th put in as well.
 
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fastmustang70

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i would have to find my dyno graph but me ever really made like full pulls on my car from like 2500 cause when you do the tires would just spin on the dyno when all the boost would come in. We where on a mustang dyno so we would just roll into the throttle to make sure the air fuel was clean up top dyno number does not mean much to me if the car wieghts 3900lbs and ets what it should with the right mph thats the power it makes. My car sounds and drives like stock when the a/c turns on there is a little drop in rpm but thats normal
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Haha that's the exact thing we have to do on my car, I get people looking at my graph that ask if it sucks only having 250wtq at 2500 rpms and I just shake my head, point at the 20/1 a/f and tell them the na motor made 400wtq at 1900rpms, if we go wot from 2000, the whole rear just spins from 3000 rpms when it fully boosts.

I took a friend for a ride that didn't believe this and when I showed him 4th gear from 1800 to 3500rpms, he was really surprised. Like 50-100 in less time than it takes the average person to read the rest of this sentence.
 

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