4v engine build. review for me

[Venom_nitrous]

I am planning a 4v engine build for either nitrous or turbo. My plan is this:
Teksid block with dry darton sleeves bored to 3.700
VT stroker crank
forged rods
Diamond pistons (9.8:1 cr)
Crower stage 3 cams
electric water pump
03 cobra heads p&p by mmr
Naz's ported intake
7qt oil pan
melling pump
arp studs all through
windage tray
oil drain back tubes
mmr rear plate

How does this sound to you all, and what would you do different? MP said that 10.5:1 would be better on the e85 or e98 that I will run in the car, but that seems really high.

 

[SN8KBYTE]

Head cooling mod.

 

[Quadcammer]

1. Forget the stroker and the big bore. Its cheaper and easier to make up the difference with boost.
2. I wouldn't trust MMR to port a toaster oven, much less a set of heads. Id look to other sources for this work.
3. You need to determine whether you will have a turbo or spray. 9.8 compression with nitrous is fine. For a turbo, thats a good bit higher than what I would run.
4. Forget the electric water pump. Another failure point that has very little benefit unless you are a regular drag racer.
5. MMR rear plate is a waste of money.

 

[Venom_nitrous]

1. Forget the stroker and the big bore. Its cheaper and easier to make up the difference with boost.
2. I wouldn't trust MMR to port a toaster oven, much less a set of heads. Id look to other sources for this work.
3. You need to determine whether you will have a turbo or spray. 9.8 compression with nitrous is fine. For a turbo, thats a good bit higher than what I would run.
4. Forget the electric water pump. Another failure point that has very little benefit unless you are a regular drag racer.
5. MMR rear plate is a waste of money.

Thank you. I do have a head cooling mod also. I already have the BB block and the stroker crank. I got them both for a steal. Otherwise, I wouldn't have done it. I will do some searching about the heads. Thank you. E85 is 107 octane and it will be in it 100% of the time. My car is about 80% track car and I want every bit of power I can. The elec. water pump seems to be a good boost. Will research failures also. Why is the rear plate a waste? Just not necessary?

 

[KingCobra10Sec]

1. Forget the stroker and the big bore. Its cheaper and easier to make up the difference with boost.
2. I wouldn't trust MMR to port a toaster oven, much less a set of heads. Id look to other sources for this work.
3. You need to determine whether you will have a turbo or spray. 9.8 compression with nitrous is fine. For a turbo, thats a good bit higher than what I would run.
4. Forget the electric water pump. Another failure point that has very little benefit unless you are a regular drag racer.
5. MMR rear plate is a waste of money.

Not co-signing the MMR port job yet, but quad said exactly what I'd say....

 

[Gallows]

I am planning a 4v engine build for either nitrous or turbo. My plan is this:
Teksid block with dry darton sleeves bored to 3.700
VT stroker crank
forged rods
Diamond pistons (9.8:1 cr)
Crower stage 3 cams
electric water pump
03 cobra heads p&p by mmr
Naz's ported intake
7qt oil pan
melling pump
arp studs all through
windage tray
oil drain back tubes
mmr rear plate

How does this sound to you all, and what would you do different? MP said that 10.5:1 would be better on the e85 or e98 that I will run in the car, but that seems really high.

What kind of power do you expect to make with this setup?

 

[Venom_nitrous]

What kind of power do you expect to make with this setup?

I am hoping to make 400-450 NA and spray a 200 shot. or run 15-17 psi on turbo. I know the dry sleeve is not the way to go, but I got the sleeved block for less than it would have cost to machine my current teksid. If it goes after 10,000 miles, it goes. The e85 burns cool and is easier on the engine. If it does blow, I have a spare set of .020 forged pistons and a spare tekis ling around.

 

[Gallows]

SVTP needs a drooling smiley. Those sound like wicked combos.

 

[EVO-lution]

2. I wouldn't trust MMR to port a toaster oven, much less a set of heads. Id look to other sources for this work.
3. You need to determine whether you will have a turbo or spray. 9.8 compression with nitrous is fine. For a turbo, thats a good bit higher than what I would run.

Def. agree with #3. If you plan turbo look to be in the 8.5:1 area.

As far as #2, I'm kinda curious myself cause I always see no one's a fan of MMR. they look to be a very reputable shop.

And +1,000,000 for NAZ ported Mani. GL with the build:beer:

 

[droptopsnake01]

If your planning to put a turbo on it just punch it .020 out. Its pointless to pay more $$ for a BB/Stroker when you can just turn up the boost. And drop the compression to 8.5-9:1

 

[Venom_nitrous]

I would have gone with the .020 over, but I got the BB block already machined cheaper than I could get a bare teksid. Everyone I have spoken to says that even 9.8:1 is low for 17 lbs. You have to remember that this will be on 85-98% alcohol. 107-113 octane @ only $2.00 a gallon. Modular Performance recomended 10.5:1

Parts I already have:
rods
stroker crank
heads (unported)
ported intake
BB block

 

[fs308]

i'm new to 4v's why is a BB motor and a waste and then why is a big bore stroker a waste.

i know with the 2v's a stroker is a waste because the heads cant move enough air

 

[birdman941]

.....mmr rear plate....

I think a broken toilet seat would work better than anything MMR can create.
I agree with the toaster oven comment.
Whatever you do, DO NOT GET THE MMR Poly-razz-matazz oil pump.
It's a total pile of crap.

 

[Nazman]

i'm new to 4v's why is a BB motor and a waste and then why is a big bore stroker a waste.

i know with the 2v's a stroker is a waste because the heads cant move enough air

You can not go wrong with extra CIs. Never.

What are they saying, and its some what correct is to just go .020 over and let the boost do the job. But the truth is that with the extra CIs you will make the same power with way less boost at any RPM level. Also, off boost response, spooling time will be much stronger/faster than the .020 motor.

That is a fact. Look at any boost map, do the calculations and you will see the results.

That equals to less wear and tear, less chance of detonation, and a much more fun car to drive.

Now, yes, you could achieve the same power levels with a 284 CI motor (.020) but at the cost of higher inlet temp, higher boost levels, etc.

To the OP:

If you are some what on a budget (which if you are building a turbo motor you are probably not), then the .020 will work just fine. If you have more money to dump, then you can not go wrong with the extra CIs.

A few people are hating on the BB/STR - BB motors and I really dont know why.

My BB/STR went 128MPH all motor @ 3350LBS and I know of a bunch FI cars that do not trap that! Added a little nitrous, and went 143MPH...still I know of a bunch of Turbo cars not trapping that high either. That was with a car that idled stock like (with a little lope), AC, no hesitation, instant trottle response, and could be driven in any condition.

One thing to consider is that a BB @ 304CIs with dry sleeves are good to 18PSI, anything after that, you are playing with fire. May be best to punch her to 300CIs that extra area will be best for gasket surface and .005 extra wall thickness.

Lastly, you have to make up your mind as far as either Turbo or Nitrous. The builds and ring packages are diferent set-ups. The CR will be diferent, as well as the bearing clerances.

If you are going Turbo then Ill say 9:1CR. If you are going NA/Nitrous then 10.5-11:1CR will be the way to go.

The heat expansion rates and other thermal considerations are to be accounted for when building those motors. So, if you want to compromise, then do so, but you should make up your mind before the build.

Also, why VT vs. MP?

Naz

 

[Venom_nitrous]

I bought the stroker kit and the BB block for a price I could not refuse. I am into all of it for less than the price of an iron BB ford block. I am on an EXTREME budget. I know hp and budgets don't go along too well, that is why I am going to take my time and make what I can. I am seriously considering just sticking with the nitrous.

 

[na svt]

I bought the stroker kit and the BB block for a price I could not refuse. I am into all of it for less than the price of an iron BB ford block. I am on an EXTREME budget. I know hp and budgets don't go along too well, that is why I am going to take my time and make what I can. I am seriously considering just sticking with the nitrous.

One thing Naz missed is that cam selection, along with the pistons, will be determined by the power adder of choice (if there is to be a power adder).,

Wastes of money:
MMR rear plate
MMR cams spacers
Oil drain back tubes

I know where you can get a set of ported for $1850 shipped:
- new guides
- new seats
- Comp springs/retainers
- oversize valves and valve job
- complete with springs

These are not some off the shelf, cookie cutter set of heads either.

 

[Orange Stang 04]

Where are you getting E85 at for $2.00/gallon? Here in Ohio where I live its a bit more expensive than that.

 

[Venom_nitrous]

Most places in South Dakota are below $2.00 now.