Yes the steeda CAI required and came with a tune
2013 gt500:Mechanics who can’t do their job pt2
- Thread starter BCICAN
- Start date
Thanks I suggested that too but he said that wasn’t needed. I don’t really think it’s the tune but I was thinking maybe starting from the beginning and he said that didn’t need to be done . But I may have to do this
At this point I would love for a bad battery to be the problem I will check it too
I'm sure your tech is smart, but like you said, I'd rather start with the basics, I've seen after market T/Bs cause the issue you're having. But I would want the car completely stock to start with.
That's what I would do as a first step. @BCICAN, do you still have the old intake so that you can remove the Steeda CAI and tune? I'm not really understand why Steeda required their tune with their CAI. Sounds like maybe it was a package thing vs. a necessity. Regardless, this would allow you to see if the issues disappear after returning to the factory/stock configuration. JMO.
Throw out the VIN number on here and let one of us pull the carfax. Sounds like this car has been under water or hit hard.
Yes I have the original tune and original CAI. The CAI I have is the steeda big bore 555-3173. I am going to go back original and go from there the only other thing I have done is an axel back exhaust. I still have the original exhaust too but I very highly doubt that could have anything to do with the cars issues
Don't worry about the axle back.
I read the whole thread. There are some good nuggets of info here.
--Verify battery is in good condition
--Verify all grounds are connected, not corroded, and wires are not frayed
--Return car to stock tune -- Connect a trickle charger to the battery during the flash back to stock to ensure the car doesn't brick from lack of voltage
Report back after all the above is complete!
--Verify battery is in good condition
--Verify all grounds are connected, not corroded, and wires are not frayed
--Return car to stock tune -- Connect a trickle charger to the battery during the flash back to stock to ensure the car doesn't brick from lack of voltage
Report back after all the above is complete!
Will do thanks
I’m not but in the past even ford has tried to blame issues the car has had on the axle back . I know it’s ignorant the sad thing is they didn’t
Thanks , It hasn’t that I know of or have seen on the car fax . I got the car when it only had 1400 miles on it in March of 2013 and it was exactly the way I wanted. Husband even pointed it out for me to consider that the 14 was selling at the time when I got mine too. But even though I could easily have afforded it I was stubborn and didn’t wasn’t to pay the extra 30+ k the dealers were adding on top of MSRP lol. Now I’m kinda thinking maybe I should have not been stubborn but confused because what could have been done to a car with only 1400 miles and less than 6 months old . It has also always had its own garage space also since I have had it the only time anyone other than myself has driven it is a couple times my husband did when I was riding passenger and the times I took it for service.
This is the screen shot I got from my scanner am
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Ok update I still plan on doing the recommendations you guys have given me but also have an apt on 28th . I had run out of options near me so I texted a guy on Facebook that lives close to us ,he has a car like mine and has done a LOT of work to his, and asked where he had taken his to and he gave me the shops information. It’s an hour away but I just want to be 1000% sure it’s finally fixed
Subn; As a new owner of 2013 GT500 I'm extremely curious on this limp mode issue. I purchased my car from a guy in Arkansas and drove it home 900 miles straight with out a hiccup.
Two weeks later I took it to my local tuner had a remote Palm Beach Dyno tune installed and my car started going into limp mode, got P0111(Intake temp sensor range) & P1229 (CAC pump driver) code. After 3rd revision, I was about to replace the Intercooler pump since many discussion's lead to this being an issue on these cars and the 1229 code kept popping up but after a complete check of the wiring, voltage/Amp, etc. everything checked out good. PBD sent another revision car ran good for a week and did it again this time P0297 overspeed condition? I had barely revved the car to 4500 rpm when it occurred.
We decided to put the VMP tune back in it, that it originally had, and its been a week since we installed it, only driven the car 3x but the car is running great. Did a few WOT pulls no issue as of yet? Will continue to update.
Two weeks later I took it to my local tuner had a remote Palm Beach Dyno tune installed and my car started going into limp mode, got P0111(Intake temp sensor range) & P1229 (CAC pump driver) code. After 3rd revision, I was about to replace the Intercooler pump since many discussion's lead to this being an issue on these cars and the 1229 code kept popping up but after a complete check of the wiring, voltage/Amp, etc. everything checked out good. PBD sent another revision car ran good for a week and did it again this time P0297 overspeed condition? I had barely revved the car to 4500 rpm when it occurred.
We decided to put the VMP tune back in it, that it originally had, and its been a week since we installed it, only driven the car 3x but the car is running great. Did a few WOT pulls no issue as of yet? Will continue to update.
First off I can tell you these guys give really good advice and are very helpful I come here often when I’m stuck trying to figure something out myself because a lot of the mechanics close to me truly are idiots.
The limp seems to be a Ford thing . As for the intercooler water pump I think mine was replaced and it might not have even need to be replaced. I should have listened to these guys and trusted myself more and just started over I probably would have saved myself 1300. P0297 is a PIA have seen many complain about it for myself I am hoping a retune will fix it when I go on the 28th
Good luck they are great cars but can be a little temperamental sometimes some of the things I have heard them going into limp about made me think of a kid with a splinter who acts like that are dying because of a scratch but always make sure it isn’t something that is more than minor just in case .
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thank you, you guys help me so much. I agree with you I had told the mechanic I was doubtful that there was more than one thing wrong with the car and told him maybe it was a possibility that one thing was causing other things to mess up and he blew me off saying it wasn’t possible for one thing to cause all the problems. I then explained I have a computer networking degree that I never used because computers can be a boring annoying PIA and what they do does not always make sense. That’s why I have a soft place in my heart for classic cars lol. I wanted to do everything you guys suggested myself and I did as much as I could but I have to be rational and admit to myself I’m going to have to buy a lot of tools I don’t already have to fix this issue. I wish I had more confidence in myself and just redid the tune and started over like you guys said before I took it to him lol and it may have fixed it but I listened that mechanic. At this point I’m doubtful The intercooler water pump ever needed to be changed in the first place but I’m a woman so how much could I know right?LOL there have been times I have had to tell my husband what to say to them to get something done. I asked someone who lives close who also has a 13 gt500 like mine that has had a lot of work done who he used that is good, because at this point I don’t know what else that mechanic did and he told me HPP so I made an appointment and will be taking the car the 28th . it’s an hour drive but I would prolly drive to Canada at this point because I’m tired of dealing with the obvious mistakes others have made on my car lol I will let you guys know how it goes keep your fingers crossed for me thanks again you guys are greatIm not saying it is failing because I have not personally verified it or inspected your car but I have seen odd ball DTC's and comm faults with ECU/PCM's that are failing. You might consider sending your PCM out and have it tested to rule that out. Its hard to say. I can assume many things @BCICAN but thats not how i do things. I personally would turn this car inside out and find the problem if it's electrical. You just have to have the right tools. Based on the faults provided above. It appesars to be an issue with the PCM and communications.
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Go back to stock and remove the CAI. Then you will have a stock baseline to start diagnosing from.
Tom
Thanks , I tried suggesting that to the last guy and he told me it wasn’t needed . I should have ignored him and went ahead and did it maybe I would have saved $1300 lol
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