2013 5.0 Build Thread - VORTECH/FORGESTAR/APR Widebody/KW V3 Coilovers and much more

Serpent

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Did you get the GT500 wing from 3Dcarbon? Does it include the black piece in the middle of the wing?
Very interested in getting this, I've seen other gt500 wings and they dont look oem with that black part in the middle missing.
also what are your rim/tire specs?
 

Z25OH

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godamn good show sir! that thing is SEXXXY...

any plans for the front reflectors? lol

i need a straight up ass shot :)
 

Thalilbear02

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Are those pics on full drop or can it go lower IF YOU WANTED???

Also, PM info on where to get these please!

I'm about 3/4" off the bumpstop which was already cut in half. I could go lower, but the rear tires rub on some bumps as it is. She really needs to loose some weight which will be happening shortly, in order for me to go lower (or change the tire size). As it is I already scrape frame rails while going up my driveway, so that may not happen immediately.

Did you get the GT500 wing from 3Dcarbon? Does it include the black piece in the middle of the wing?
Very interested in getting this, I've seen other gt500 wings and they dont look oem with that black part in the middle missing.
also what are your rim/tire specs?

Yes, got the GT500 wing from 3Dcarbon. With the factory trunk spoiler for the V8, all the bolt holes line up so it's a perfect fit, just like factory. The gurney flap in matte black is standard, yes.

20x10 w/ 275/35/20
20x11 w/ 315/35/20

godamn good show sir! that thing is SEXXXY...

any plans for the front reflectors? lol

i need a straight up ass shot :)

Haha thank you! I do have body work plans which should be on the way towards the end of the year. Can't go into detail quite yet, but lets just say we'll need new wheels with the set up I'm going with if everything goes as planned :)
 

Thalilbear02

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looks amazing man, what do u do to keep ur DIB looking clean?

She gets washes every Thursday, and gets waxed as often as it's really necessary :)

Really REALLY like this build. Gives me a nice target. :beer:

Thanks! Stay subscribed, once the honeymoon with my wife is over with I'll be given a get out of jail free card with the wife to get whatever I need for at least a little while, so I'll do my best to dump as much as I can into it! :rolling:
 

EscapedGreg

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Gorgeous looking car!

I'm planning on running the same coilover setup hopefully the beginning of next year so it's been great to see your write up.

Question I was wondering if you possibly knew what the offset was on your wheels? I was hoping to run the same size tires as you and my wheels are 20x9.5 +35mm and 20x11 +50mm.
 

az20115.0

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Thalilbear02, Can you share with us your compression and rebound settings and how you got there? I got my KW V3s on my 2011 and so far I like it very much.. great ride quality, handling seems good but hard to really verify..
I have the factory settings on and it feels a little soft in the front.. In fact, according to factory settings, the rear compression and rebound are both several clicks stiffer than front..
Anyone know why that is?
I'll keep you posted on any findings I come up with
Pictures coming soon
 

Thalilbear02

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Gorgeous looking car!

I'm planning on running the same coilover setup hopefully the beginning of next year so it's been great to see your write up.

Question I was wondering if you possibly knew what the offset was on your wheels? I was hoping to run the same size tires as you and my wheels are 20x9.5 +35mm and 20x11 +50mm.

Thank you very much! My offsets are 20x10 ET41 and 20x11 ET55. With the 315/35/20's I have on now, they rub on the outside fender, and on the felt panel on the inside of the wheel well over extreme stress (road course stuff). If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably drop down to a 305/35, or maybe a 315/30 if I can find it.

Is that the RTR decklid panel that I see?

How do you like the Falken FK453 so far?

Yes! Just had that installed with the spoiler a few weeks ago. The tires are great, no complaints here especially considering the price.

Thalilbear02, Can you share with us your compression and rebound settings and how you got there? I got my KW V3s on my 2011 and so far I like it very much.. great ride quality, handling seems good but hard to really verify..
I have the factory settings on and it feels a little soft in the front.. In fact, according to factory settings, the rear compression and rebound are both several clicks stiffer than front..
Anyone know why that is?
I'll keep you posted on any findings I come up with
Pictures coming soon

Here's the guide that I use for all my suspension set ups:

Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control

Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.

Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.

1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.

2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.

3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.

4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.

NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.

Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.

It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.

1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.

2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.

EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.
 

az20115.0

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Thank you very much! My offsets are 20x10 ET41 and 20x11 ET55. With the 315/35/20's I have on now, they rub on the outside fender, and on the felt panel on the inside of the wheel well over extreme stress (road course stuff). If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably drop down to a 305/35, or maybe a 315/30 if I can find it.



Yes! Just had that installed with the spoiler a few weeks ago. The tires are great, no complaints here especially considering the price.



Here's the guide that I use for all my suspension set ups:

Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control

Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.

Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.

1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.

2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.

3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.

4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.

NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.

Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.

It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.

1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.

2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.

EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.


Really Awesome info
Thank you very much
What did you end up setting yours at? Do you have any updates on the spring change?
 
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Thalilbear02

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Really Awesome info
Thank you very much
What did you end up setting yours at? Do you have any updates on the spring change?

No problem!

To be honest, I can't remember what I set mine at. Like the dumb dumb I am, I forgot to write it down. I will be swapping out the springs on the KW's for either swift springs, or (more than likely this option) Eibach linear race springs. Once I do that I'm going to have to change the settings.
 

Thalilbear02

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Stay tuned! APR Widebody is coming! Whole process should take 3-4 weeks possibly:

01-apr-widebody-mustang-sema-585x388.jpg
 

Zevox

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What lower grill are you running, the Roush grill delete? Hard to tell, kind of dark in the pics. Very good looking car man.
 

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