Ahh yeah, I meant to post the pic too but I saw the 'DA' on the passenger. I'll have to check the driver but I'd assume them to the same.
2003 Cobra - New restoration/project
- Thread starter hatchke
- Start date
Beautiful car. Good luck
I do like the new wheels. Nice contrast with the white paint. Great choice!
And yes, definitely look at the head casting numbers to confirm which you have.
And yes, definitely look at the head casting numbers to confirm which you have.
Very nice car man. Congrats.
Quick little update. Did confirm that the speedo correction box wasn't actually doing anything besides making my speedometer incorrect. I used my Dragy to do some checking and once I set the box back to .99 it mirrored Dragy speeds. I also used the calculator to double-check that I do in fact have 3.73's in this. I assume the speedo was corrected using the tuner and this was just making the speedometer 5% off.
At 70 i'm turning just ~2100 rpm, and 60 i'm turning 1800ish - https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/engine-rpm-calculator
Also, now that the M4 is coming back tomorrow with the new rear turbo from Pure (eye-roll) I finally let the Cobra stretch its legs a bit on the highway and ran it up through a few gears.
Definitely have some transmission noise in the higher gears/rpm under load and what sounds like a whirring/chirping. 3rd sounded fine up through 6k, 4th didn't sound as happy. I'll try adjusting the clutch a little bit, but I also suspect my cold-start ticking noise is related to the clutch or adjustment as well. I'll see what I can get figured out over this week and maybe bust out the GoPro for some videos to show what i'm hearing.
At 70 i'm turning just ~2100 rpm, and 60 i'm turning 1800ish - https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/engine-rpm-calculator
Also, now that the M4 is coming back tomorrow with the new rear turbo from Pure (eye-roll) I finally let the Cobra stretch its legs a bit on the highway and ran it up through a few gears.
Definitely have some transmission noise in the higher gears/rpm under load and what sounds like a whirring/chirping. 3rd sounded fine up through 6k, 4th didn't sound as happy. I'll try adjusting the clutch a little bit, but I also suspect my cold-start ticking noise is related to the clutch or adjustment as well. I'll see what I can get figured out over this week and maybe bust out the GoPro for some videos to show what i'm hearing.
Captured a decent video of my ticking sound showing how it's not really tied to RPM, but changes with some clutch engagement. Sometimes it goes away when the clutch is depressed.
By the time I get to wherever i'm headed to, the noise is gone entirely. It's a confusing one for me for sure. Doesn't feel engine related to me, and keep thinking it's something within the clutch setup itself.
By the time I get to wherever i'm headed to, the noise is gone entirely. It's a confusing one for me for sure. Doesn't feel engine related to me, and keep thinking it's something within the clutch setup itself.
Have you absolutely ruled out an exhaust leak? You saying that when the engine is up to normal temps (ie. at the end of a short road trip) the noise disappears more points to a small exhaust leak. If you haven't already done so, thorough check your exhaust system for a leak. At least to rule that out if a leak isn't found.
I cranked down the x-pipe to manifold bolts a little but they were already nice and taut. Visually inspected the manifold itself but I guess that's not to say that i've 100% verified no exhaust leak. I feel like 90% sure it isn't exhaust, but finally have some good weather this weekend and the BMW is back from turbo replacement so I don't have to drive the Cobra right now either.
You can hear it in the video too where the noise almost spins up after that last small rev at the :31 mark. At this point whatever it is isn't keeping the car from operating normally so it's more of a nuisance I guess.
I also don't want to get surprised by at TOB or something exploding and leaving to get towed.
Starting the paint correction since I got the M4 back. A little preemptive BUT I've wanted to do this SO badly since getting the thing. It's going to polish up really nicely though. I'll end up doing the oil cooler when I finish up the correction.
This is after a pass of a heavy cutting compound and then jumping to a finishing compound without any waxing. The rear bumper is BAD haha.
This is after a pass of a heavy cutting compound and then jumping to a finishing compound without any waxing. The rear bumper is BAD haha.
The only sure way to rule out any exhaust leaks is to do a pressure test. There are YouTube videos that provide some instructions. I saw one video yesterday and quite a few people responded with a "thanks" because it helped them easily uncover exhaust leaks.
Man it almost sounds like a mechanical sound, but it’s hard to tell on video. The part that screams exhaust leak is you stated it goes away when warmed up. But, other components also heat up and expand. Have you used a stethoscope to try and pinpoint it? Also it might be time to just bite the bullet and drop the trans to inspect.
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I got it all up on ramps to stethoscope the other day and then the noise went away so fast I couldn't even get a read on it. It's definitely an odd one, but feels like i'm getting closer and closer to pulling the trans and seeing what's what. A good bit of work just to inspect but occam's razor seems to apply here.
Learned something new.
Alllll finished on the paint. Not my best work but i'd call it a 90% correction. I definitely should have used a different pad initially for the cut. The hood and driver's side turned out a lot nicer but so it goes. I'll go back panel by panel after a while and fix it up a little nicer - maybe after I get the front/rear bumpers fixed/repainted.
Went pretty old school with the fax and did a Collinite 845 vs some of the newer stuff that i'm just not as familiar with using. I need to research a little on what the newest car care stuff is.
Looking forward to getting it out into the sun when it's supposed to be a little nicer the beginning of this week and see how it really is when I go get this thing registered (finally got the title in the mail)
Went pretty old school with the fax and did a Collinite 845 vs some of the newer stuff that i'm just not as familiar with using. I need to research a little on what the newest car care stuff is.
Looking forward to getting it out into the sun when it's supposed to be a little nicer the beginning of this week and see how it really is when I go get this thing registered (finally got the title in the mail)
It's the only thing that keeps me sane on some car projects haha.
There is no magic or snake oil with the clutch adjustment.
The throw out bearing (TOB) needs to be spinning at all times.
The noise in your video doesn’t sound like a clutch or TOB problem.
PM me if you want RE clutch adjustment.
I’ve had the same clutch and TOB in my 73’ CJ5 with a Ford power train since 2010. It’s not magic.
You’ve got an exhaust leak or a mechanical problem that I’d bet 99% is not clutch
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The throw out bearing (TOB) needs to be spinning at all times.
The noise in your video doesn’t sound like a clutch or TOB problem.
PM me if you want RE clutch adjustment.
I’ve had the same clutch and TOB in my 73’ CJ5 with a Ford power train since 2010. It’s not magic.
You’ve got an exhaust leak or a mechanical problem that I’d bet 99% is not clutch
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Ok noted, and I appreciate the help. I'll hop back underneath in the morning and give it another shot. It's supposed to be pretty cold in the AM so the noise should be present longer than last time.
Jacked the car all up, got my stethoscope all ready.. started the car and the noise lasted all of 30s this time. It's been sitting in the garage and it's probably about 45-50deg in there.
Kicking around other ideas now. Could this noise possibly be piston slap, only when it's really cold outside? Would that track?
Edit: waited until it was even colder outside this evening and still no noise again. It had been very consistent when I was driving it more on a daily basis while waiting for Pure to ship my M turbo back. Not really sure at this point.
Kicking around other ideas now. Could this noise possibly be piston slap, only when it's really cold outside? Would that track?
Edit: waited until it was even colder outside this evening and still no noise again. It had been very consistent when I was driving it more on a daily basis while waiting for Pure to ship my M turbo back. Not really sure at this point.
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No huge update(s) here this week, just ordered a SCT X4 and picked up a Ballenger AFR500v2 to get going in some other areas.
I also did play around with the clutch adjustment a bit and the ticking noise is very obviously not related in any way. I did get the release point to a sane place, and it feels better to drive, but otherwise it's the exact same as MG0h3 suggested.
Feels like the noise just coincidentally echoes down underneath the motor, either through a leak in that vicinity or some mechanical echoing underneath until the motor starts to warm up a little.
I also did play around with the clutch adjustment a bit and the ticking noise is very obviously not related in any way. I did get the release point to a sane place, and it feels better to drive, but otherwise it's the exact same as MG0h3 suggested.
Feels like the noise just coincidentally echoes down underneath the motor, either through a leak in that vicinity or some mechanical echoing underneath until the motor starts to warm up a little.
Sounds to me like it fluctuated with RPM. Would it not be somewhere in the valve train?
Yeah I was initially convinced it wasn't tied to RPM but it really is. When I pop the hood with the noise going I can't hear anything with the naked ear - only underneath. I'll get the stethoscope going across each of the cylinders next time and see if I can pinpoint a particular area.
If not, i'm back to to hunting an exhaust leak and maybe just have to take it somewhere to smoke test the exhaust.
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