lol now thats funny.
I figured you had this thread on alert on your phone. Called Keith as i was strapping it down.
2.9 with ported heads and cams build.
- Thread starter mach1033
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lol now thats funny.
I figured you had this thread on alert on your phone. Called Keith as i was strapping it down.
How should I say this.... For all that's reading this make sure u get more than one opinion when it comes to an injury. Turns out a specialist missed an actual tear that will only get worse. So for now I will head back to work and I will have surgery done come January. I can't afford to be off for 8 weeks before the holidays. I told you that you have 9's in there. Congrats man that's hauling.
Id like to say i had better news but I don't think its smart to try and finish calibrating this vehicle.
When the car was 1st here I was only making shake down runs when the failure happened and had only 1 WBO2 in the bank 2 header (same side of motor that broke cam gear). The a/f was roughly 11.6 to 11.8 until the engine let go.
Being extra precautious this time I disabled closed loop and removed the factory 02s and ran the vehicle in open loop with DUAL WBO2's (one on each bank).
Bank 1 is roughly 1.5 points LEANER than Bank 2 the entire pull. My A/F for bank 2 is the same 11.6 to 11.8 while bank one is 13.0 to 13.2.
To verify this condition i swapped WBO2 sensors side to side and the readings stayed the same, thus removing the theory that a sensor is bad. The reading lay right over each other on the tests.
The power curve is exactly the same as before (only took it to 4500 once i saw one side not fueling correctly. I CANT STRESS ENOUGH the importance of calibrating with dual WBO2s for this very reason. I use duals 99% of the time, and insist on the bungs being welded in to be able to test this way.
The vehicle will throw the 340 (cam sync code) within 5 miniutes of running.
Exact description right from my ford documents.....
P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Im suspecting improper cam timing, time to dig deeper into it.........ughhhhhh :/
When the car was 1st here I was only making shake down runs when the failure happened and had only 1 WBO2 in the bank 2 header (same side of motor that broke cam gear). The a/f was roughly 11.6 to 11.8 until the engine let go.
Being extra precautious this time I disabled closed loop and removed the factory 02s and ran the vehicle in open loop with DUAL WBO2's (one on each bank).
Bank 1 is roughly 1.5 points LEANER than Bank 2 the entire pull. My A/F for bank 2 is the same 11.6 to 11.8 while bank one is 13.0 to 13.2.
To verify this condition i swapped WBO2 sensors side to side and the readings stayed the same, thus removing the theory that a sensor is bad. The reading lay right over each other on the tests.
The power curve is exactly the same as before (only took it to 4500 once i saw one side not fueling correctly. I CANT STRESS ENOUGH the importance of calibrating with dual WBO2s for this very reason. I use duals 99% of the time, and insist on the bungs being welded in to be able to test this way.
The vehicle will throw the 340 (cam sync code) within 5 miniutes of running.
Exact description right from my ford documents.....
P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Im suspecting improper cam timing, time to dig deeper into it.........ughhhhhh :/
I'm going back to my couch now. Hopefully I will wake up from this nitemare 
Not sure where I'm gonna go next here. Fix it then sell it or sell it as is and take an ass raping and buy a high mileage clean cobra and throw a built motor from a legit builder. I am so disgusted I don't know where to begin. I was considering either an 11/12 shelby or the 13. But this car is paid and I really like not having a note anymore. I gotta really think this through.
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Pull the motor send to Cory at Ironhand and be done..
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My advice, keep this car and fix it. You already have enough money into it, and know what the car has. If you buy another car, you're buying other peoples headaches. Just my opinion. I know how this issues make us go insane, trust me I've been there. Hell I'm sure everybody on this has has been there. Keep your head up man, you guys will figure it out. Good luck with your injury buddy
Keep to bro......way too much invested to give it away....you have all the right parts in there just work out the demons and get that thing running the way it should.....all in all its a moster just waiting to be fixed.
Thats the sad part. I didn't cut any corners I used all quality parts from the first day I bought this car. I'm just very frustrated.
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I honestly think that sending the motor to a reputable builder is the key to all this .. It sucks but I'm sure there are vendors on here that'll take good care of you and help you out with this headache.
.. It sucks but I'm sure there are vendors on here that'll take good care of you and help you out with this headache.
I honestly think that sending the motor to a reputable builder is the key to all this
Oh trust me this will get all sorted out. I have a lot invested in this for me to stop now. Just waiting to here what Kevin comes up with and at that point I will go from there. :beer:
couldnt you do a compression test and compare values from bank 1 to bank 2, and confirm that it is an actual mechanical problem and not a pcm related or sensor issue?
I'm going back to my couch now. Hopefully I will wake up from this nitemare
Al,
I feel so bad for you!
This thing has been a perpertual PIA along with the injury issues. WTF??
Unfortunatley you are so deep in the car it makes no sense to dump it.
Hopefully Kevin can help you get it sorted out.
Step back, take a deep breath and try to approach the situation logically.
I wish I was local so I could lend you a hand or at least be you drinking partner.:beer::beer::beer:
are there any signs that since the engine is mis-timed that any ptv contact has been made? if you're lucky and nothing has hit, then why are you talking about sending the motor somewhere? pull the vc's and timing cover and retime it, correctly. few hours of work and little to no more money(if no damage has occured) and you're back in business.
I know you would bro. I will take this one day at a time.
You would be correct if the engine builder would do the work while the motor is in the car. Hr needs it on an engine stand. Do you understand my anger now? Plus in order to remove both valve covers and timing cover it would require the removal of the hydro boost, supercharger, front drive accessory and my pain the ass to remove strut tower brace. My guess is engine removal would be easier.
you shouldn't have to remove the hydro boost or the blower to get the job done. i've gotten the vc's off without removing either, but that was on an eaton car, dont know if it's different.
regaurdless tho, if you dont feel comfortable doing the work yourself, i would NOT go back to whoever did it in the first place. timing one of these engines is not hard, there's no reason why it should be off even if it was the dudes first time.
regaurdless tho, if you dont feel comfortable doing the work yourself, i would NOT go back to whoever did it in the first place. timing one of these engines is not hard, there's no reason why it should be off even if it was the dudes first time.
If what your saying is true that would be great. I'm waiting for Kevin to contact me once he is done trouble shooting everything.
Dang buddie u just cant get a break
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