'13 bower on a '11

WHT03SVTCOLO

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Doing a swap and having Justin remote tune the car. The car is stock except a JLT CF tube and 2.5 and CR HE that I want to swap over. So my question is will the 2.5 fit the '13 blower and What plugs should I get or anything else I may need?
 

black99lightnin

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Doing a swap and having Justin remote tune the car. The car is stock except a JLT CF tube and 2.5 and CR HE that I want to swap over. So my question is will the 2.5 fit the '13 blower and What plugs should I get or anything else I may need?

From what Justin and BJ have stated the older 2.5" has the wrong offset. They do sell a 2.4" that fits perfect. TR6's are the plugs I'm using. With the smaller pulley I believe you'll need injectors.
 

WHT03SVTCOLO

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From what Justin and BJ have stated the older 2.5" has the wrong offset. They do sell a 2.4" that fits perfect. TR6's are the plugs I'm using. With the smaller pulley I believe you'll need injectors.

Thanks for the info. Ill be sure to get some TR6. Bummer that the 2.5 wont fit the new blower. I saw the 2.4 at VMP so that maybe an option. So what injectors did u go with? Would I need injectors with the stock 2.7 pulley? Appreciate the help.
 

VNMOUS1

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TR6's are the same heat range as stock. If you want to go colder, we have a Motorcraft plug available on our website that works well. I use them in my car with 21psi.

Our 2.40" is our upgrade pulley for the '13 blower.

You won't need to do anything with your injectors unless you:

Use a 10% lower (just the 2.40 won't LIKELY be enough to push it over the limit)

Use an aftermarket throttle body like the FR CJ65mm.

And

Use a larger intake.

The true info won't be known til you datalog. Make sure you do so when you're doing your remote tune.

bj
 

black99lightnin

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TR6's are the same heat range as stock. If you want to go colder, we have a Motorcraft plug available on our website that works well. I use them in my car with 21psi.

Our 2.40" is our upgrade pulley for the '13 blower.

You won't need to do anything with your injectors unless you:

Use a 10% lower (just the 2.40 won't LIKELY be enough to push it over the limit)

Use an aftermarket throttle body like the FR CJ65mm.

And

Use a larger intake.

The true info won't be known til you datalog. Make sure you do so when you're doing your remote tune.

bj

I was ordering the 2.4 soon, but thought I needed to upgrade injectors. I was going to use the CJ 80lbers.
 

VNMOUS1

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I was ordering the 2.4 soon, but thought I needed to upgrade injectors. I was going to use the CJ 80lbers.

Please don't. They are definitely not what we (or anyone else) suggest.
Have yours modded to 72# for $299.

But first go back through my list above.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
 

WHT03SVTCOLO

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Thanks BJ! Looks like I'll be fine running my stock TB and JLT CF Standard intake tube. Based on your statement I can order the 2.4 and be safe and to datalog. So I need to get a step colder plug do you have a NGK option over the MC plug? Looking forward to working with you and Justin. Thanks!
 

VNMOUS1

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Thanks BJ! Looks like I'll be fine running my stock TB and JLT CF Standard intake tube. Based on your statement I can order the 2.4 and be safe and to datalog. So I need to get a step colder plug do you have a NGK option over the MC plug? Looking forward to working with you and Justin. Thanks!

The 2.40" is going to be close. But before you buy injectors, datalog it and be sure. Do NOT use the FRPP 80s.

As for plugs, for 15+ psi I use Motorcraft
SP-471. Agsf12fm1.

1 step colder

. 035


bj
 
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MalcolmV8

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BJ, you mention a few times in this thread not to use the FRPP 80 lb injectors. Why is that?
 

VNMOUS1

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BJ, you mention a few times in this thread not to use the FRPP 80 lb injectors. Why is that?

They suck.

Seriously, everyone I've ever seen use them has had issues with idle, steady state and consistent delivery. People buy them because they're inexpensive.

I've seen 4 different calibrators tune around the issue.... Including us... At the end of the day, it's a Band-Aid at best.

And 72# is all you need to 800 hp.

Bj

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 

MalcolmV8

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They suck.

Seriously, everyone I've ever seen use them has had issues with idle, steady state and consistent delivery. People buy them because they're inexpensive.

I've seen 4 different calibrators tune around the issue.... Including us... At the end of the day, it's a Band-Aid at best.

And 72# is all you need to 800 hp.

Bj

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I'd have to agree with you 100%. I put them in my 03 Cobra not knowing better and I've had those exact issues, inconsistent A/F on idle and steady state. I was hoping it wasn't just me but you just confirmed all my problems.
I've heard the ID 1000 injectors are fantastic although double the price. Would you suggest those? I don't want to buy another set I struggle with.

Thanks
Malcolm
 

VNMOUS1

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I'd have to agree with you 100%. I put them in my 03 Cobra not knowing better and I've had those exact issues, inconsistent A/F on idle and steady state. I was hoping it wasn't just me but you just confirmed all my problems.
I've heard the ID 1000 injectors are fantastic although double the price. Would you suggest those? I don't want to buy another set I struggle with.

Thanks
Malcolm

Mod a set of stock GT500's. $299

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MalcolmV8

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how does one go about doing this....i hate the 80lb FRPP injectors, driveability sucked ass in my terminator

I'm in the process of tuning my 03 with the 80 lb FRPP injectors and wonder if half my driveability problems stem from them. Can you explain the issues you had?
 

WHT03SVTCOLO

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BJ I have been holding off to get everything before tuning on the dyno but know im thinking why wait and just put on what i have and get a custom tune and send datalogs for you to dial it in and no dyno needed. So if I do a 2013 blower and JLT 123 for the 1st tune then I can do a FRPP CJ oval TB and 2.4 pulley for the second tune when I can buy them later. This method is as good as dyno tuning more or less? Any discounts for Xmas or SVT members?
 

VNMOUS1

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bj i have been holding off to get everything before tuning on the dyno but know im thinking why wait and just put on what i have and get a custom tune and send datalogs for you to dial it in and no dyno needed. So if i do a 2013 blower and jlt 123 for the 1st tune then i can do a frpp cj oval tb and 2.4 pulley for the second tune when i can buy them later. This method is as good as dyno tuning more or less? Any discounts for xmas or svt members?


I assume you're buying or have purchased a 13 tvs. Stand-alone or the full kit.

By the way, if you haven't purchased we should talk so you can get what you want, with a warranty, and configured properly from the start.

On tunes, when you buy a tune from us, we will adjust the tune, if necessary, for additional mods that you buy from US. Tuning for mods purchased elsewhere are additional cost.

Can you load a file, data log it and dial it in more if needed? Certainly.

Is it EXACTLY the same as us having you on a dyno, locally or remotely? No. A dyno session will allow you to accelerate your car in a controlled, stable environment that you simply arent going to replicate on a back road with you at the wheel worrying about the next deer crossing.

But, in the vast majority of cases the "home version" will allow us to see anything we need to compensate for to give your car outstanding performance.

Your call.

Please contact me via email with any questions. I check this forum once daily but am immediately alerted to email.

Thanks


please reach me via email at [email protected] as opposed to pm. Thanks.
 
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