I run Carbotech pads. http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.html
Carbotech likes you to run a new rotor with their pads. For your use I would go AX6 front/ Bobcats in the rear, and you can drive on the street with these and get some heat cycles in those new rotors and pads.
Sir, not to step on your toes or call you out. But i was reading over carbotechs FAQ's and ran across this:
Carbotech pads.... taking there own reccomendation to heart are these not strong enough? I would go with XP10s up front and XP8s out back, or XP8s all around. I think what Jimmy was getting at is at the beginning level, you don't have to go all out. I have had buddies run AX6s and Bobcats on 350Zs at the track with no problems (of course, they are lighter and lower power, but he is a pretty fast driver). He also has a "relationship" with Carbotech to test some of their pads. However, with brakes you should err on the cautious side of the equation.
On to my questions:
1. a)I have a 2.8 pulley and idler sitting at home waiting to be installed. I have the amazon unlimited tunning option and all i have to do is install the pulley and call Rick and have him shoot me a tune. Is this not reccomended for when i go to the track? I know it doesnt need more power but i always want more and if the parts are sitting in front of me :nonono:. For a while, stay at low powered and as rich of a tune as possible. Your car will thank you and your wallet will thank you. Lower power will make the car easier to handle and more reliable. You don't need the power right now no matter what you think. I recently pulled the blower off my car so I can go back NA.
1. b)If it will overheat the car at the track should i invest in a AFCO (since i heard they were the BEST). If it overheats, start searching on here for all of the typical cooling mods: hood, boxed radiator, head mod, etc
3. a) How important is the head cooling mod.. any of them? People talking about me not having one is making me nervous.. i really dont need to buy a new motor.. im not rich I want to do it at some point cause ive heard its important to do im just trying to prioritize.. You can do this now or later, your choice. I have the LDC Cooling mod on my 99, but it is no longer made. The driver's side head is the only side that needs it as the passenger side head already had an outlet on the rear that goes to the heater core. This issue is hot coolant pooling at the rear of the driver head (#7 and #8) and pistons overheating.
5. I went to the dyno yesterday and with my mail order tune (2nd revision) i gained like 5hp (417 hp 386ftlbs).. im not as much worried about the minimal gain as the A/F's they were ~11.6 or 11.7... is this acceptable for tracking? If not should i ask for a richer tune? It is probably fine for a first timer to the track, but the richer the better (to a point). Some of the others with Terminators can make a suggested range.
7. Im going to PM anthony right now about his brake cooling kit but i have reservations about the hose...i dont think its high temp.. i know you can patch it with the tape he reccomended but would high temp hose alleviate that issue... i would assume he used that hose for cost effectiveness but if im going to install this all i want to do it once and right if possible.. so should i upgarde to high temp? Your choice, easy enough to wrap with tape if a hole appears
Ok... ive just decided!
Im going to go to Willow on the 21st and race.. i will use the little money i have saved up for upgrades, on a track day and gas.. apparently that link for open track racing after reading, with the entry fee you can get an instructor for 30 min to help with the basics...basically i wanna get out there and see how hooked im gonna get and go from there..one of the deciding factors was this: http://www.opentrackracing.com/galleries/march12-08/pages/IMG_4312.htm Make sure you get an instructor and have them in the car as much as possible. You will not learn everything in 30 minutes -- it takes YEARS!
What if anything is an absolute necessity for going out the first time.
Im pretty confident as sh!tty as drilled rotors are they will be fine for one track day right? Probably, just keep a check on them. However, newbies at the track can be harder on brakes than veterans as you may tend to brake early and long. If you don't change them, keep a very close eye on them. I would change them if it were me.
My brake fluid isnt black so that should be fine? Flush it no matter what. Fluid should be fresh (ie less than 30 days old)
The rear end is the only thing on the car i worry at all about.. above 130 it shakes.. i dont know how fast the straight out of 9 is but i dont want it locking up and sending me into a wall.. if im in the begginers class i dont have to do 130 down the straights even if i can right? You don't ever have to go faster than you desire, no matter the skill level. Don't ever let anyone push you, you can simply stick your hand out the window and give them a point by. The straights are a good place to take it easy, breathe, relax and check your gauges. Unless I am running with someone and having fun, I quite often on the straights only run the car up to the entry speed of the next turn (as long as there is no one behind me). IE, if my maximum turn in speed at the next turn is 60mph, I just run it up to 65 or 70 on a short straight and take a breather. After a while you will get over the need for straight line speed and you will look forward to the turns.
Sir, not to step on your toes or call you out. But i was reading over carbotechs FAQ's and ran across this:
Carbotech™ Bobcat 1521™: "...Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use. "
Carbotech™ AX6™ (1106™): "...Cars in excess of 300hp and/or 3,000lbs should not use AX6™ for any track use.
Now we all know how fat the Termi's are.. and that they are over 390 from the factory.. So i guess my question is..taking there own reccomendation to heart are these not strong enough? I mean if im going to buy a set of pads and rotors for the track im going to get some that are completely dependable and useable for the track... I went to your site specifically (Jimmysidecarr) and it looks like you have the same calipers as me (just a different color) are you experiencing no fade? Have you tried the next higher pad?
Should i do some searching? Is there a post already about this somewhere? I tried searching the net for the "best 2000 cobra r pads" and came up with nothing basically. Just want to make sure im spending the money on the right stuff..
So watch your temps on the cluster test mode read out, and milk a straight or two if it starts getting up near 109/110C.
If it doesn't respond quick enough turn on your heater.
So you don't bake yourself or crash, set up your dash vent registers ahead of time, in the pits.
Close the one to the left of the wheel and aim the remainder out the passenger window. Then set the heater function to dash vents and the temp to full hot. Do not turn the fan on until you are ready for the extra cooling.
By doing this this way you will only have to flip the fan knob to full, to start the back up cooling system..LOL!
BTW: I still run my heater everytime I'm out running laps.:beer:
Im have the HARDEST time getting my camera mount to stop shaking....i have made 3 different mounts with 3 different cameras and all are sucking..
Has anyone found that using a lateral bar instead of the harness or cross bar helps with shake?
I have to go buy a new swivel mount as i broke mine last night...
Ill post pics if anyone is interested in the designs....