The wobbling clutch fork was one of the issues that irritated me the most. He had the cable really loose in my opinion, his concern was ensuring the TOB just lightly rode on the PP, but when adjusted from the top it seemed to take some of the wobble out but I can still feel the clutch pedal slightly vibrating.
The pedal effort is no where as soft as my RXT but not heavy either. Not sure if there are any other Mantic users on here but Id like to get there opinion on this.
The guy at the shop did express some concerns with massaging the tunnel they didn't want to beat on my car as they stated. I kind of appreciated that but if it needs to be done to avoid all these harmonics/NVH I told them to go ahead and do it.
I hope I can get this issue resolved, I just dropped a lot $$$ on this set up and I'm a bit disappointed.
I got 7yrs and @14k out of my RXT. No TOB failures or noise.
I’m at 2yrs and @3k miles on my 1200. No TOB failures or noise.
With a non factory adjustment system, I set mine as follows:
While running, use the adjuster to pull up the fork until the TOB is spinning.
I set mine so that with a finger or two, I can apply enough pressure rearward to the fork that the TOB stops spinning.
As soon as I let go, fork moves back into position and it’s spinning again.
There are no springs or anything on the fork.
For diagnostics, I’d back the cable off so the clutch is out of the equation. The cable will be loose so any vibration not be there or may not be transmitted to the pedal. I’d hold onto the fork and feel and visually observe any wobble or vibration.
Is it there or not?
If not, then pull it up to proper adjustment and see if it’s there.
If so, you’d have to assume the clutch is the problem. It is possible he’s leaving it too loose and it’s bouncing on the fingers a little.
FYI I set my CJ5 with an aftermarket slave system up the same way 12yrs ago. No issues.
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