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T56 Magnum or Upgraded rebuild?
- Thread starter BUNKY
- Start date
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Nice man where'd the trans come from.....RPM? Guessing they did the black case...
Nice, Looks great.
FYI, The stock handle does not work. The stock bolts are too small for the magnum shifter base. If you remove the bushing in the stock handle the holes are too large for the size in the magnum shifter. I run a UPR handle on mine.
Missed a call from the owner of Hanlon. Left a long voicemail RE my concerns on the seal. Assured me it is a totally different seal and does not suffer from the same issues.
Placed an order and got a t shirt and free shipping. Really nice folks.
My car came with a triax on the tremec base which they said will bolt to their shifter.
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Placed an order and got a t shirt and free shipping. Really nice folks.
My car came with a triax on the tremec base which they said will bolt to their shifter.
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It’s from tick, if you zoom in it shows all the info engraved
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Well I finally picked up my car from getting the Magnum installed. I was so looking forward to getting it back with my new combo! Any little thing that could've went wrong, well it did. Ill get into that later.
This is what went in the car;
-T56 magnum, new TB, Pilot bearing, and MM clutch cable
-Mantic Clutch, with all new hardware
-DSS Carbon fiber Drive shaft
One the main things were having issues with is my Clutch fork, I am getting a lot of wobble at the clutch pedal no matter how we adjust the cable? Although nits a lot lkess once we tighten it. Is there a different adjustment on the fork with the Magnum transmission / mantic clutch combo? Also the Trans is a little noisy, I'm getting a lot of harmonics - NVH.
Although this could be, cause we did not put low profile bolts on the front part of the shifter assembly and noticed yesterday that they where rubbing against the trans tunnel.
Ant advice would be appreciated.
This is what went in the car;
-T56 magnum, new TB, Pilot bearing, and MM clutch cable
-Mantic Clutch, with all new hardware
-DSS Carbon fiber Drive shaft
One the main things were having issues with is my Clutch fork, I am getting a lot of wobble at the clutch pedal no matter how we adjust the cable? Although nits a lot lkess once we tighten it. Is there a different adjustment on the fork with the Magnum transmission / mantic clutch combo? Also the Trans is a little noisy, I'm getting a lot of harmonics - NVH.
Although this could be, cause we did not put low profile bolts on the front part of the shifter assembly and noticed yesterday that they where rubbing against the trans tunnel.
Ant advice would be appreciated.
depending on the clutch/quadrant combo i am running on my t56, whenever i had vibrations at the pedal, installing the ldc (sp?) freeplay mod has always taken care of it. you know that spacer and spring that keeps the fork pushed rearward. otherwise the fork sort of bounces around and you feel it at the pedal
I've heard of this free play mod, you have a pic of what it looks like? What is the ldc (sp)?
Ldc and the freeplay mod are no longer around.
I would imagine those bolt heads rubbing the tunnel are magnifying any NVH issues
I’d say the clutch assembly is more likely to be making noise than the trans itself. I’ve different clutches make noises in different situations
I have an rxt and don’t have movement issues with the clutch fork
I would imagine those bolt heads rubbing the tunnel are magnifying any NVH issues
I’d say the clutch assembly is more likely to be making noise than the trans itself. I’ve different clutches make noises in different situations
I have an rxt and don’t have movement issues with the clutch fork
I've had 2 RXTs, a side from the chatter good clutch. I wanted to try something with a sprung hub and have read good things about the Mantic so I gave it a try.
I definitely believe those bolts are a major part of the noise I hear in the cabin, but trying to figure out this clutch fork issue. Its the only part that was not replaced replace, didn't look so bad?
I definitely believe those bolts are a major part of the noise I hear in the cabin, but trying to figure out this clutch fork issue. Its the only part that was not replaced replace, didn't look so bad?
i th
i *think* those were the company's initials, was either ldc, or lcd... anyway it was just a very simple spring and spacer that kept rearward pressure on the fork. the end of the cable went through the center of it. there were threads where guys were making them themselves with stuff from lowes.
i *think* those were the company's initials, was either ldc, or lcd... anyway it was just a very simple spring and spacer that kept rearward pressure on the fork. the end of the cable went through the center of it. there were threads where guys were making them themselves with stuff from lowes.
Did you index the bellhousing? Verify the clutch air gap?
Basically I’m saying did you install it correctly?
-J
Basically I’m saying did you install it correctly?
-J
Sorry looks like a shop did it. They do make an extended clutch fork if the fork is the issue. If a shop installed I would make them accountable.
-J
Yes sir they index the bellhousing, and contacted Mantic to ensure they had correct measurements, I only know this because he had showed me the drawings and measurements that he had made but mantic also provided sketches. I am not sure about the clutch airgap no mention of this. what does this consist of?
The shop is taking responsibility, in fact the car goes back in the shop next week to conduct some troubleshooting. I'm just trying to pinpoint what went wrong with this set up?
That’s good I hope they straighten it out. It’s a fairly basic setup so I hope it goes well.
Good luck
-J
Good luck
-J
I'm hoping as well. I Spoke with them today their plan is to drop the tranny, install button style bolts on the shifter and hope that most of the NVH is coming from the bolts contacting the trans tunnel, also they want to take a look at the clutch fork and pivot ball.
I tried counter sinking the shifter bolts and they still hit the floor. The only fix was the hammer mod.
Above is correct, you’re going to have to ding the tunnel.
You can get them from the top of you drop the exhaust at the mufflers and unbolt the trans crossmember. Should give some room to ding the tunnel.
The aftermarket shifter from Hanlon is much slimmer at the base so that would help.
Seeing more and more of these wobbling clutch fork complaints.
Even with the TOB lightly riding the PP fingers you get it?
Let’s say you’re clipped into the pivot ball correctly.
You have two points of contact where the TOB could be causing that. PP fingers and input shaft tube.
Unless maybe the TOB is clipped into the fork wrong or they got bent maybe. Still, the fingers and tube should be straight.
Interested to see what this is.
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You can get them from the top of you drop the exhaust at the mufflers and unbolt the trans crossmember. Should give some room to ding the tunnel.
The aftermarket shifter from Hanlon is much slimmer at the base so that would help.
Seeing more and more of these wobbling clutch fork complaints.
Even with the TOB lightly riding the PP fingers you get it?
Let’s say you’re clipped into the pivot ball correctly.
You have two points of contact where the TOB could be causing that. PP fingers and input shaft tube.
Unless maybe the TOB is clipped into the fork wrong or they got bent maybe. Still, the fingers and tube should be straight.
Interested to see what this is.
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I received my Tick shifter yesterday, very nice piece. Installed it already since the trans is out. Can’t wait to try it. Feels very tight. My stock magnum shifter has play side to side in the shifter base. When it’s in gear, the shifter handle could move almost 1/2”. Very annoying and tough to shift sometimes. Hopefully this issue is resolved now.
I already did the hammer mod to the tunnel before. This new shifter has the screws recessed into the base.
I already did the hammer mod to the tunnel before. This new shifter has the screws recessed into the base.
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The wobbling clutch fork was one of the issues that irritated me the most. He had the cable really loose in my opinion, his concern was ensuring the TOB just lightly rode on the PP, but when adjusted from the top it seemed to take some of the wobble out but I can still feel the clutch pedal slightly vibrating.
The pedal effort is no where as soft as my RXT but not heavy either. Not sure if there are any other Mantic users on here but Id like to get there opinion on this.
The guy at the shop did express some concerns with massaging the tunnel they didn't want to beat on my car as they stated. I kind of appreciated that but if it needs to be done to avoid all these harmonics/NVH I told them to go ahead and do it.
I hope I can get this issue resolved, I just dropped a lot $$$ on this set up and I'm a bit disappointed.
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