Suspension Tech: Bring It!

BMR Tech 2

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You don't *NEED* the isolators, but it's a good idea to have them. You can order them from Ford for a few buck each. The dust boots for the shocks aren't available through Ford, but I'm fairly certain Gabriel makes a set. Don't forget about bump stops, which can be ordered through a dealership or Ford Performance.

For the rears, I would suggest you get a set of Viking double adjustables instead of the Strange singles. They offer a much wider range of adjustability, and will really help you get your settings dialed in. 361 settings on the Vikings vs 10 on the Strange. The Strange aren't bad, but it's hard to beat the Viking.
 

onefastmf

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BMR Tech 2

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The suspension looks like its working fine and I can't see if the car is unloading (doesn't look like it though). I'd talk with your tuner about tweaking how the power comes on, or see if you can find a different track to run at.
 

Slow Five-O

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looking for some tips on adjustments needed.

All bmr rear adjustable rear suspension, and all solid spherical bushings. Uca is in the lower hole and lca is in the middle. viking rears, set at 7c 11r. I'm thinking Some more clicks on the rebound side. check out the video and let me know please, thanks

Regular time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YinjSzIGSio&feature=youtu.be




Slow mo vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD5_rmhrMy8&feature=youtu.be

That's pretty gnarly. What tires and tire pressure? Have you checked pinion angle? I agree with you, I think it needs some tuning in the shocks.


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onefastmf

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M/t pro's 18psi cold. Just setup the pinion last weekend and had it verified by someone who knows what there doing besides me, but it was correct. To me it looks like the tire bounces up to fast and causes the spin on the hit. Plenty of faster cars there than mine, so I don't think it was the track.
 
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Slow Five-O

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M/t pro's 18psi cold. Just setup the pinion last weekend and had it verified by someone who knows what there doing besides me, but it was correct. To me it looks like the tire bounces up to fast and causes the spin on the hit. Plenty of faster cars there than mine, so I don't think it was the track.

Yeah definitely not the tires and I like 18 psi as well. You could try lowering it a little and see if that helps but I agree you can see the gap in the wheel well come back after the car just barely started moving.


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NacsMXer

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I'm going to be installing a set of BMR springs, relocation brackets, and LCA's in the near future. I want to install the brackets and LCA's on a drive on lift with the wheels still on the car.

What is the best way to get my 1/2" torque wrench on the front LCA bolt since it's difficult to access?

So far i've experimented with an 18mm socket, a universal joint, and an extension but I don't know if that would hold up to the required 129 ft/lbs of torque.

Thanks!
 

NJredfire03

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Lowering 2013 GT500 with 285/35/19 tires up front

Hey, hoping to get some guidance on this one. I want to lower the car without having any issues with the 285/35's up front. Have you seen or heard of success stories/fail stories? Thanks in advance, Matt
 

BMR Tech 2

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You shouldn't have any problems with a 285/35/19. That is actually a bit shorter than OEM, so you'll still have plenty of room.
 

NJredfire03

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You shouldn't have any problems with a 285/35/19. That is actually a bit shorter than OEM, so you'll still have plenty of room.

Great, thanks man. Sorry one last question. Is there an absolute need for the adjustable UCA with the one piece carbon fiber DS?
 

Slow Five-O

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I put my rear lowering springs, panhard bar and lower control arms on last weekend (all BMR of coarse) but on the relocation bracket for the life of me I spent 2 hours trying to get the bolt started from the wheel weight and I couldn't with the bracket on. Everything else went smoothly.

Everything looked lined up, the bolt would go through just the bracket fine and i could get it started without the bracket just fine. Any tips/tricks here? Do the axle weights HAVE to be put back on? It was over 100 degrees and I was getting pissed. Maybe that had something to do with it, but it wasn't happening!


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BMR Tech 2

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Great, thanks man. Sorry one last question. Is there an absolute need for the adjustable UCA with the one piece carbon fiber DS?

It is a good idea to use an adj. UCA with aftermarket driveshafts since they tend to be more sensitive to pinion angle than OEM. If there is a CV joint on the DS, then pinion angle is not as critical. Some driveshaft manufacturers do require the use of an adj. UCA in order to CV to DS length set properly. Check with the manufacturer of your driveshaft to verify.

I put my rear lowering springs, panhard bar and lower control arms on last weekend (all BMR of coarse) but on the relocation bracket for the life of me I spent 2 hours trying to get the bolt started from the wheel weight and I couldn't with the bracket on. Everything else went smoothly.

Everything looked lined up, the bolt would go through just the bracket fine and i could get it started without the bracket just fine. Any tips/tricks here? Do the axle weights HAVE to be put back on? It was over 100 degrees and I was getting pissed. Maybe that had something to do with it, but it wasn't happening!


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The damper weight bolt must be installed or the brackets must be welded. I find it's easiest to loosely install all the other bolts first, then use a pry bar on the bracket to get everything lined up. Once you have the holes lined up, then install the bolt and tighten. The brackets are a tight squeeze, and sometimes the back strap will fight you a little bit. You can get it, I'm sure!
 

NJredfire03

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It's factory on 13-14 GT500's. I went and ordered the adjustable UCA on a recommendation from a shop. Thanks for info and your time


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