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Bringing the 4lb Caged lower back from the Dead?
- Thread starter cj428mach
- Start date
Not nut swinging here lol but Mike is an awesome guy. He's been a huge relief and such a great guy to talk to about this pulley set up and some other problems I'm having. Being a noob with these cars can get a little annoying because problems/questions being asked are usually the same problems you all have had for 13+ years. I literally just spent 2 hours reading through EVERY post on this thread about the process, pictures, problems, and what not. It's well worth the read if you're wanting to go this route with Mikes pulley set up.
So cudos to Mike and his hard work he's put into this process. From what I've taken on from reading this thread, the population on here is getting smaller and smaller. Guys like Mike keep the noobs on their toes about what is what. Thanks again Mike for helping me and everyone else out plus some other posters who obviously have knowledge of technical data. :thumbsup:
So cudos to Mike and his hard work he's put into this process. From what I've taken on from reading this thread, the population on here is getting smaller and smaller. Guys like Mike keep the noobs on their toes about what is what. Thanks again Mike for helping me and everyone else out plus some other posters who obviously have knowledge of technical data. :thumbsup:
Got mine in today!!! Looks great, very excited to install this piece!! Thanks Mike, love the packaging job too, took a lot of time just to get it all unwrapped lol
Jake
Jake
Glad you like it Jake and it does take a long time to package these. I swear it takes me about 15 mins to get one packed up.
Make sure when installing the bearing that you don't press on the pulley itself, make sure you press on the inner bearing race.
Keep a constant eye on that stamped steel idler as I can't tell you how long its going to last. The good part is that with a 4lb lower belt tension should be lower so you it should be easier on it.
Okay awesome I will do, if it goes bad I'll end up doing a thumper one like you showed me. My appt for dyno tune is July 18th so I'll be installing the 4lb that weekend before, I'll let you know how it goes hopefully this new tri bar doesn't get ruined like the last one!
Jake
Jake
Mine showed up today. Looks awesome. Thank you again.
Received mine today. Love the look. Now need to get a 70 mm pulley as did not order with my kit. I need to get a good tune also as want to dyno this to be safe.
Hey guys just got my lower pulley off my old bracket that way the 4lb is ready for install as soon as I pull tribar off my current lower on the car atm. Now for anyone who's having trouble this is how I got mine off, in no way am I responsible for damage to your tools, as this method is uses your sockets NOT for their intended purpose. But it does work and my sockets were not damaged in process. I went a rented a puller set from O'reilly and used my 1/2" drive 1" socket along with my 7/16" socket. I set the 7/16" socket down into the 1" socket that way it rests in there and the puller's shaft doesn't thread into the 1" socket like it did for me at first! If you do not us a smaller socket inside the 1" socket you will thread the shaft of the puller into your socket, while my 1" socket is still luckily serviceable it will make pulling the pulley off a lot hard as you will be fighting the metal of the 1" socket. So word to the wise use a smaller socket as to where the threads don't even touch the inside of socket. Here is how it looks all set up to pull you lower pulley off. If you look closely mine was already coming off when I snapped the pic just to show you this really does work.
Here's a pic of my 7/16" socket undamaged after using it:
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Also on another note if you do not have a grinder, you can use a chizel like I did to de stake the bracket's stakes around the inside of bearing.
Sorry if I'm stepping on your toes Mike, don't mean just figured I could spread this info if others have trouble trying your way, like I did.
Jake
Here's a pic of my 7/16" socket undamaged after using it:
Also on another note if you do not have a grinder, you can use a chizel like I did to de stake the bracket's stakes around the inside of bearing.
Sorry if I'm stepping on your toes Mike, don't mean just figured I could spread this info if others have trouble trying your way, like I did.
Jake
I basically did the same operation that Jake did but I used a puller from the US General (Harbor Freight) Front End Tool Set. Two turns on the puller and it popped right off. Since my lower was taken off the car in '06 and had less than a thousand miles on it at the time, it took me less than two hours to dismantle it.
While pressing the new pulley on does it take much effort . Would a hammer and socket work ?
A hammer and socket would work but you're never supposed to hammer a bear into place. I would suggest finding a competent shop to press it on as it they shouldn't charge more than $10-$20 to do it.
Skitzerman- I'm truly jealous of that 1000 mile lower that came apart that clean.
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My lower is now braced.
If it breaks now, you weren't meant to have a lower....or at least not one with a stock drive system.
Now that these lowers are done I'm really thinking the next project is to look at doing an upgraded drive mechanism, that would be fun!
Looking back really jealous of the 70mm idlers you guys got! If I had jumped on the last one like 15 mins earlier I would have gotten it lol. Mike did Billet Pro make any extras?? I'd love to get one just for the looks alone!
Jake
Jake
Gotta have a drill press layin around the house.
Finished up the shaft, tribar and locking plate tonight. I got lucky, I only needed a 16th" on the flat to get the shaft tight and the locking plate to drop in. I used a light cut flat file on the back of the tribar during the clocking phase. Took it apart three times to file and on the fourth assemble, the locking plate dropped right in. Now I need to get the pulley pressed onto the frame and I'm done with this part.
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Finished up the shaft, tribar and locking plate tonight. I got lucky, I only needed an 16th" on the flat to get the shaft tight and the locking plate to drop in. I used a light cut flat file on the back of the tribar during the clocking phase. Took it apart three times to file and on the fourth assemble, the locking plate dropped right in. Now I need to get the pulley pressed onto the frame and I done with this part.
Looks great, I can't wait to see it completed!
Here is one assembled and installed already on Tim Brewsters motor.
My only complaint is the engine looks so nice and clean that it steals the show from the 4lb lol.
Over the Holliday, I got busy with my pulley.
The donor assembly came apart with ease using all the suggestions posted here. It took about an hour. The fire wrench defiantly helped getting the pulley off of the shaft.
Sikitzerman was half right about the drill press. You got to have a 20 ton press lying around as well. Everything is ready for final assembly. I just want to make a shim for the shaft to take up about .030” of clearance for the perfect clock of the drive dog. Thanks everyone, especially CJ428Mach.
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The donor assembly came apart with ease using all the suggestions posted here. It took about an hour. The fire wrench defiantly helped getting the pulley off of the shaft.
Sikitzerman was half right about the drill press. You got to have a 20 ton press lying around as well. Everything is ready for final assembly. I just want to make a shim for the shaft to take up about .030” of clearance for the perfect clock of the drive dog. Thanks everyone, especially CJ428Mach.
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Hey guys I figured I would post my lessons learned even though I really don't want to admit, I already f'd up.
Well long story short i bent the rubber seal pressing on the pulley with a socket too big. All the socket was contacting with was the rubber.
So I didn't want to proceed with installing knowing the seal was jacked.
I ordered a new bearing off amazon. ACDelco 15-2802 also crosses to 6559469. It was $19 on prime(can be found cheaper but cant beat 2 day shipping).
Now how to get the pulley back off the cage.
I found using three sockets on the bottom to stand up the assembly.
And one socket down the middle worked like a charm.
Here is what the bottom would look like.
And what it looked like on the press with the 3 sockets under it (rags to protect the pulley).
It came off pretty easily.
Now to get the bearing out of the pulley.
I built a little cube out of 2x4's.
Just flip the pulley over on the cube and the bearing pressed right out.
I ordered some Loctite 39150 to mount the bearing in the pulley.
All came apart well and back in with no problem, definitely a quality item.
Now I just want to compare how deep everyone else's pulleys are mounted.
Hope this helps somebody maybe not today but even down the road.
Well long story short i bent the rubber seal pressing on the pulley with a socket too big. All the socket was contacting with was the rubber.
So I didn't want to proceed with installing knowing the seal was jacked.
I ordered a new bearing off amazon. ACDelco 15-2802 also crosses to 6559469. It was $19 on prime(can be found cheaper but cant beat 2 day shipping).
Now how to get the pulley back off the cage.
I found using three sockets on the bottom to stand up the assembly.
And one socket down the middle worked like a charm.
Here is what the bottom would look like.
And what it looked like on the press with the 3 sockets under it (rags to protect the pulley).
It came off pretty easily.
Now to get the bearing out of the pulley.
I built a little cube out of 2x4's.
Just flip the pulley over on the cube and the bearing pressed right out.
I ordered some Loctite 39150 to mount the bearing in the pulley.
All came apart well and back in with no problem, definitely a quality item.
Now I just want to compare how deep everyone else's pulleys are mounted.
Hope this helps somebody maybe not today but even down the road.
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