How are you guys soon the intercooler fluid when you're done putting it back together? I just added a little bit and it was topped off. I used about 1 and a half Gatorade bottles with a 50/50 mixture, so about 50 oz., give or take. The fluid was churning at idle which should indicate the pump is working, but I'm not sure if it needs to be burped or whatever.
"how to: blower removal and installation"
- Thread starter kirks5oh
- Start date
pretty sure the factory bolts are TTY so if you are reusing them be very careful. same with the intake to head bolts.
if your intercooler tank is full and churning then you should be good. not really a way to burp it. Your problem is when its not churning due to a air bubble.
I got new bolts and gaskets from Tousley, their "eaton swap kit". It included the garbage 7mm intercooler bolts. My main concern was the intercooler fluid. I didn't know if since I had the car apart if there would be air in the line and all that and cause overheating. It seems like it's good, but I was unsure if I just topped it off and was good or if I needed to burp it. I saw a link to directions where they were actually burping it at the crossover tube...:??:
Crossover is radiator coolant only brother. Let the intercooler reservoir circulate with the cap off for a while and fill to the line. You should be good.
Whipple intercooler to blower bolts are much better quality........hint hint
I did a google search for intercooler fluid and found that. Thought it was odd that nobody mentioned it here, thus I asked. My first time doing that much to anything. A simple task to some of the pro's out here.
I bet Whipple bolts are better, I should probably look into them.... As well as what they bolt down.
oke:
awesome write up without a doubt! This should help me when i get my blower ported, I bought one off of ebay and gonna send that to get ported. Is it necessary to remove the lower intake if all im doing is swapping the blowers?
It is possible, but I personally like to yank the lower with the blower, build it all on a bench, and reinstall the whole unit.
awesome thanks, yeah i was just curious. I'll probably remove the whole as a unit as well b/c im the same way as building all on a bench or well for me not in the 100 degree heat and in the comfort of my air conditioned house
thanks again
Not required and much easier weight wise to do them one at a time. I always pull just the blower and leave intake unless it's a twin screw because then you have fuel rail fitment issues and bolt access problems that force you to do it as a complete assembly.
sweet, thanks :beer::banana:
Thread is 8 years old... his image shack account could have been deleted or any number of things.
Was hoping the OP would come on and fix it.
Thanks!!
That's great. Thanks for posting.
What's the best RTV to use for the intercooler to blower seal?
I always use mega black. If you've ever pulled apart engines you've assembled with various sealers you'll notice the black seals up like no other. It's actually a bear to get apart and doesn't hardly ever leak.
This makes absolutely no sense
"ten 10mm blower to intake bolts--tighten 1st to 2Nm (18inch/lbs), 2nd to 25Nm (18ft/lbs), and 3rd tighten an additional 90 degrees"
What are the final torque specs supposed to be on all 10 bolts?
"ten 10mm blower to intake bolts--tighten 1st to 2Nm (18inch/lbs), 2nd to 25Nm (18ft/lbs), and 3rd tighten an additional 90 degrees"
What are the final torque specs supposed to be on all 10 bolts?
It makes perfect sense. You use your torque wrench for steps 1 and 2. For the third step use a regular socket wrench and turn the bolt and additional 90 degrees.
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