**GEN-3 Killer Chiller GB**
- Thread starter J.Kincaid
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Post your results here please.
agreed...got it done.
gonna re dyno hope to make a little more
I wouldnt expect you will see a major difference, unless your tune is pulling timing below 130* IC temps.... most dyno tuners let cars cool down before making final pulls.... atleast that is what I experienced with mine.:beer:
OK, I don't know if I'm a really extreme case or what.
I hit 210F by the time I've crossed the 1/4 mile, and I typically start out the pass around 170F, this is with massive water injection too.
KB 2.6, 20psi, stock HE, I need major help desperately.
I hit 210F by the time I've crossed the 1/4 mile, and I typically start out the pass around 170F, this is with massive water injection too.
KB 2.6, 20psi, stock HE, I need major help desperately.
i let the system draw in the 3oz pag46 and saw a pressure of 4psi ... then after the first can emptied i see the pressure on the gauges are now at 100psi on both sides ... i am afraid to let another can in bc i am scared those are too high of pressures to be attached to a can!
when i cycle the a/c, the low side drops a lot but comes back up to 100psi before dropping way down again...
will adding more refrigerant lower the low side pressures or will they continue to rise
a/c worked great before this install and i installed the kit precisely
when i cycle the a/c, the low side drops a lot but comes back up to 100psi before dropping way down again...
will adding more refrigerant lower the low side pressures or will they continue to rise
a/c worked great before this install and i installed the kit precisely
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I've been having a similar issue where my low side static pressure seems high but maybe it's supposed to be like that? The first time I tried charging, I had the low side to compressor line pop off on me which tells me either a) there was too much pressure or b) there was something wrong with the connection
Any input would be appreciated.
i think your connection was bad ... b/c i am seeing pressures of around 100-110psi on both gauges with the compressor off... but i finally got a hold of Joe this evening
after one can the low side was going all the way up to 100psi.. then cycling down to the low side shut off point (21psi) then back up to 90-100psi
after talking to Joe he said this was because there is not enough refrigerant, so after we talked i put in another full can... as soon as my second can started to enter the low side dropped way down and remained around 40-45psi
1) so after first refrigerant can i saw spikes to 100psi on low side, high side appeared to be around the 100-150 range
2) after second can was entered my low side is now around 45psi and remaining there (compressor doesn't seem to be cycling, but rather staying on) .. and high side seems to sit around 230psi ... *air is sill not very cool
i will look at it more tomorrow, and attempt to enter the 3rd can, Joe said it should take a full 3 cans and maybe even 3.5
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Joe said it should take a full 3 cans and maybe even 3.5
I've done this approx 4 times now, dealing with a leak I finally got resolved....
3 cans - 3 1/2
3 cans puts my system @ approx 35psi lowside & 4 cans is approx 50psi low side pressure, I typically set mine to around 39-40 psi, I get great IC & cabin cooling/using industrial 12a. I typically see my average IAT2 while driving around mid to high 80's even after an hr of driving....and quickly drops further as the I open the throttle....
Joe offers excellent customer service....
Joe offers excellent f/u support...
I've done this approx 4 times now, dealing with a leak I finally got resolved....
3 cans - 3 1/2
3 cans puts my system @ approx 35psi lowside & 4 cans is approx 50psi low side pressure, I typically set mine to around 39-40 psi, I get great IC & cabin cooling/using industrial 12a. I typically see my average IAT2 while driving around mid to high 80's even after an hr of driving....and quickly drops further as the I open the throttle....
Joe offers excellent customer service....
Joe offers excellent f/u support...
Thanks, this clears up a lot of confusion for me. After my line popped off, i had assumed that there was something wrong with my system. I've been trying to troubleshoot this for days now and was ready to pull my hair out! I'll recharge this week when more 12a arrives and hopefully it goes smoothly.
The KC would definitely make a difference, but those temps seem unusually high. When was the last time you cleaned your IC? What is the water glycol ratio you're running? You also need to check your IC pump, as it may be weak, or intermittent.
Yeah, two cans is not enough. Like I said you'll probably need 3-4 cans, let me know how it goes.
Double check that connection. If the fitting is not seated correctly it'll pop off under pressure. Check the spring and make sure it's in good shape. Sometimes it'll get deformed or crushed from misalignment. If it looks suspect go to NAPA and pick up a new one, or you can call me and I'll send one out to you.
- Joe
Ready to order this thing! Cant wait to see the difference.
Alright, thank you. While we're here, are there any available at this price still?
What can I use to lubricate the o-rings besides PAG 46 oil? I don't want to buy a big container when I just need a few drops.
Anybody have pics of this gen3 installed yet? I looked through this thread again and didn't see any. I just put one on a customers car and am fitting the bumper tonight. I didn't see a way to hide the lines on the bottom. And with insulation on one of the lines, I can imagine the bumper will fight me going on because there is minimal room between it and the HE bracket on the passenger side.
J.Kincaid when I talked to you on the phone you said I could get some "T" or fitting to install into the lines so I can add a temp sensor. Could you tell me what to look for at my Hardware store.
on the gen 3 with the a/c connections on the bottom ... they are going to show some .. you can't possibly sit the unit any higher up b/c the coolant lines would then be hitting the top portion of the bumper(just below the pony/cobra) ... so you will have a/c connections showing at the top portion of the heat exchanger opening
however ... i sprayed some black paint on those connections and i think it hides the connections very well .. only you will know they are there
the a/c lines can be tucked up in between the bumper and the foam .. and they will no longer be hanging as seen in the pics .. i just hadn't done it yet before these pics were taken .. as for the connections ... they will be slightly visible, but once painted.. only you will know they are there from standing view
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Thanks!
Ok, thanks for the pics. The one I just did will probably show a bit more because the customer originally had the gen1 or gen2 KC, so everything was up top and I cut a lot of the foam out to sink it down to clear everything up top. So naturally the bottom fittings will probably be lower than yours are, but yours look pretty damn good. I will know more when I fit the bumper. But you also don't have any insulation on the line either, which ads a good bit of needed room.
In addition, I installed it with the AC fittings up top and coolant lines on bottom based on the KC sticker on the AC side and I figured that was supposed to point up like the other. so coolant lines being bigger than AC lines, so insulation is even bigger.
Great idea about painting black. I will do that and since he has the stock HE still, it should blend in pretty good.
In addition, I installed it with the AC fittings up top and coolant lines on bottom based on the KC sticker on the AC side and I figured that was supposed to point up like the other. so coolant lines being bigger than AC lines, so insulation is even bigger.
Great idea about painting black. I will do that and since he has the stock HE still, it should blend in pretty good.
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