Wiring with Fore fc3 controller and hobbs switch

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TRBO VNM

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The housing itself is aluminum. But that black part where the wires go through is not. I think it is a Delrin or abs plastic I think. It was noticeably different when I took it apart.

Justin knows his shit. :)

And with the hobb switch wiring, after discussing with Justin, for the typical user I agree with him and wiring it direct to the controller.
 
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BoostedByV

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The housing itself is aluminum. But that black part where the wires go through is not. I think it is a Delrin or abs plastic I think. It was noticeably different when I took it apart..

I mean where do you tee off for it to see boost?
 

cj428mach

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I mean where do you tee off for it to see boost?

I put my hobbs switch in behind the glovebox. That's also where I have my 3.5 bar sensor for my Aeroforce interceptor. There is a factory coupler right there so if you're not running anything else just remove the coupler and put a T in its place.

For the engine bay I put a T in the FRPS line and ran it to regulator and FRPS.
 
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BoostedByV

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I put my hobbs switch in behind the glovebox. That's also where I have my 3.5 bar sensor for my Aeroforce interceptor. There is a factory coupler right there so if you're not running anything else just remove the coupler and put a T in its place.

For the engine bay I put a T in the FRPS line and ran it to regulator and regulator.

Wait

regulator and regulator.?
 

BoostedByV

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I put my hobbs switch in behind the glovebox. That's also where I have my 3.5 bar sensor for my Aeroforce interceptor. There is a factory coupler right there so if you're not running anything else just remove the coupler and put a T in its place.

For the engine bay I put a T in the FRPS line and ran it to regulator and FRPS.

I'm canceling out my frps , so can that line go straight to regulator ?
 

jblood37

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I put my hobbs switch in behind the glovebox. That's also where I have my 3.5 bar sensor for my Aeroforce interceptor. There is a factory coupler right there so if you're not running anything else just remove the coupler and put a T in its place.

For the engine bay I put a T in the FRPS line and ran it to regulator and FRPS.

Putting the Hobbs switch behind glove box is a pretty good idea. I might copy it.
 

BoostedByV

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how did you connect the boost line to the hobb switch ? i can't really see on the picture
 

cj428mach

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how did you connect the boost line to the hobb switch ? i can't really see on the picture

Go to the hardware store and buy an 1/8" hose barb with a female 1/8" NPT on the other end. Thread that onto the hobbs switch then hook your hose to the hose barb, ziptie, and enjoy.
 
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BoostedByV

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Go to the hardware store and buy an 1/8" hose barb with a female 1/4" NPT on the other end. Thread that onto the hobbs switch then hook your hose to the hose barb, ziptie, and enjoy.

that barb fitting will hook up to the red boost lines?
 

cj428mach

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that barb fitting will hook up to the red boost lines?

You said you were going to put the hobbs switch in the glovebox. If so you just need a T to plug into the factory line where the factory coupler was. Then put a piece of hose on the T and run it to the hobbs switch.

For the engine bay, I put a T in the FRPS line and then ran one hose to the FRPS and the other side to the regulator.
 

cj428mach

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Hobbs switch in glovebox with my Aeroforce 3.5 Bar MAP sensor T'ed into the factory boost line. The white fitting is where the factory coupler went, then when I added the hobbs switch I just cut my hose and added one more T, which is the black one.
t6bg2o.jpg

Engine boost lines, I might reroute them someday. I had to go above the regulator as it put the factory FRPS boost line at a better angle.
9gd0cw.jpg

212afs8.jpg

25uld3t.jpg

343rzu8.jpg


Trunk wiring, the relay on the FPDM mount is the one to remain factory priming of the pumps. The red stuff is heat shrink over factory terminals. All this was done without cutting or splicing one factory wire. I'm so glad I have a junk fox body harness when doing this stuff as I use it for donor wires and remove the original wires from the harness and cover them with heat shrink.
f422bl.jpg
 
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TRQJUNKIE

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Hobbs switch in glovebox with my Aeroforce 3.5 Bar MAP sensor T'ed into the factory boost line. The white fitting is where the factory coupler went, then when I added the hobbs switch I just cut my hose and added one more T, which is the black one.
t6bg2o.jpg

Engine boost lines, I might reroute them someday. I had to go above the regulator as it put the factory FRPS boost line at a better angle.
9gd0cw.jpg

212afs8.jpg

25uld3t.jpg

343rzu8.jpg


Trunk wiring, the relay on the FPDM mount is the one to remain factory priming of the pumps. The red stuff is heat shrink over factory terminals. All this was done without cutting or splicing one factory wire. I'm so glad I have a junk fox body harness when doing this stuff as I use it for donor wires and remove the original wires from the harness and cover them with heat shrink.
f422bl.jpg

Damn dude thats a lot of crap on the right side of the blower lol
 
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