Wiring with Fore fc3 controller and hobbs switch

[jblood37]

Example pic of fc3 fc3

Example pic of Honeywell pressure switch (hobbs) pressure switch

Most connections for fc3 are self explanatory. The ones I'm not sure of are the remotes. I have installed two 465 pumps. I want one of my pumps to run continuously and the other to come on under boost. How would I wire this to happen?

Now on to the pressure switch. Where is a good place to mount this? What diameter line is needed and how are you routing vacuum lines for boost reference? Also, does the switch need to be wired? If anyone has installed pics that would help out tremendously. I know, lots of questions. Thanks guys.

 

[TRQJUNKIE]

Shoot me a PM with your number and I'll send you some pics.

 

[BadAzztt]

I can post some pics when I get home in a few days but I'm sure someone will beat me to it. As far as the wiring its easy. Use FPDM signal wire to trigger pump one. Keep Hobbs switch in engine compartment to keep boost line short. Run 12v switched to one side of Hobbs switch from fuse box, run other side of switch back to trigger 2 on FC3. Your done.

 

[TRBO VNM]

No pics handy, but mount it wherever you want.

What I usually do is run a wire from the power block in the engine bay and connect it to one side of the switch. Then the other side of the switch I run a wire back to the FC3 and that will be the trigger for the second pump. I fuse this wire since it is the longer wire that runs through the car.

Then with the vac, you can get a brass fitting that is barb on one side and female npt on the other side. Screw that fitting on the switch and then make a vac connnection that sees boost. Same source as boost gauge, FRPS, regulator.

I need to find some large heat shrink. But so far I have just used electrical tape to put around the switch to protect the connections on it from not grounding out. Heat shrink would be a cleaner look.

I typically use a 10 or 12 gauge wire for the hobbs, which 10 gauge is a little overkill for just a trigger wire, but I bought a 100' roll of it.

 

[jblood37]

Here is a pic of the pressure switch. Which side goes to battery/power block and which goes to fc3?

Here is pic of wire included from Fore

 

[TRBO VNM]

Oh cool, that was going to be a comment I had for them, include wire.

It doesn't matter which side. It is just a on/off switch that is activated by boost. The boost just closes the switch from each side to send trigger power to the FC3.

 

[cj428mach]

Does this go in the "remote" terminal location? Also isn't this just a trigger wire so you could get by with the wire thats included with the switch.

Anyone have pics of where they mounted their fuse for the 4 gauge wire. That thing is big and ugly, i need to find a place to hide it lol.

 

[BoostedByV]

I was told by fore to do it like this .

 

[TRQJUNKIE]

The G/Y wire should be inserted into the terminal labeled "REMOTE PUMP 1"

Hobbs switch wire 1: *FC3 terminal labeled "REMOTE PUMP 1"
Hobbs switch wire 2: *FC3 terminal labeled "REMOTE PUMPS 2+3"

The Hobbs switch is not polarity sensitive.

 

[jblood37]

TRQJUNKIE's setup. The orange looking wire coming out of loom is actually the green /yellow trigger wire.

 

[BoostedByV]

TRQJUNKIE's setup. The orange looking wire coming out of loom is actually the green /yellow trigger wire.

What is this hose t off with ? What port ?

 

[jblood37]

Where is this hose going ?

How did you draw that pretty arrow?! I'll let him answer bc I don't know, but he told me anything on boost side of supercharger works.

 

[BoostedByV]

jBlood37 it's an app called "skitch" (free) on my iPhone

 

[TRBO VNM]

Only difference with putting both wires to the controller is that you are getting the power feed for the switch from the same trigger as pump 1.

Now that fore is providing wire for the switch and seeing what they provide, that is what I would recommend as well. Every one I have installed did not come with that dual wire harness. So I just ran one wire back to the controller and kept the other wire short in the engine bay.

 

[TRBO VNM]

What is this hose t off with ? What port ?

A boost source. Make sure it is boost and not just a vac source

 

[BoostedByV]

So I just ran one wire back to the controller and kept the other wire short in the engine bay.

Hobb switch ?

 

[cj428mach]

Damn it, I should have been looking at my computer more but I've been having issues with it.

I just split the dual wires from the hobbs switch and ran one to the rear of the car and left one in the cabin to find a 12v switched source. There is no way I'm going to snake that separate wire to the rear of the car now. I wished my kit would have come with some instructions. The only ones I'm finding online are for a just installing the hat no wiring etc.

I take it the FC3 is made out of something that doesn't conduct electricity. I was afraid that the 4 gauge battery wire would touch the outside of the case where it goes through the terminal hole. I put my multimeter on the FC3 case and couldn't get it to show a connection going through it. I guess there is no issue with this?

 

[jblood37]

Damn it, I should have been looking at my computer more but I've been having issues with it.

I just split the dual wires from the hobbs switch and ran one to the rear of the car and left one in the cabin to find a 12v switched source. There is no way I'm going to snake that separate wire to the rear of the car now. I wished my kit would have come with some instructions. The only ones I'm finding online are for a just installing the hat no wiring etc.

I take it the FC3 is made out of something that doesn't conduct electricity. I was afraid that the 4 gauge battery wire would touch the outside of the case where it goes through the terminal hole. I put my multimeter on the FC3 case and couldn't get it to show a connection going through it. I guess there is no issue with this?

Dang, that sucks. Should be made out of billet aluminum.

 

[cj428mach]

Dang, that sucks. Should be made out of billet aluminum.

That's what I thought but the coating or anodizing on it must not conduct electricity as my multimeter wasn't showing connection when I put both ends on the outside of it. Because I don't see anyway for the big 4 gauge power and ground to not touch the black lip around where the terminal goes on the FC3.

 

[TRQJUNKIE]

What is this hose t off with ? What port ?

I used a tee off the port in the pic then I used a couple Y fittings to supply boost to the other components