Will this be worth it?

Nazman

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Thinking about swapping to a D1SC with my current combo. Up-the injectors to 60LBS, a Diablo MAFIA, and 3 Core Sheet Metal IC.

Everything else will be the same.

What 10-12PSI "should" get me on a mild tune? How about one a more agressive tune and race gas?

Will execced 650RW?

Naz
 

01yellercobra

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You'd have to run race gas all the time with 11.5 compression wouldn't you? You'd probably need a bigger injector. I think around 600rwhp is the limit on 60's and I'm sure you'll be way more then that with a mild tune.
 
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slick4_6

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Aren't you running 11.5:1 compression. If so talk to Quadcammer. Pretty sure he killed a high compression motor with boost. With a good tune you may be able to do it but you might also have to buy 100+ octane.
 

Double"O"

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do the SCT BA2800 MAF instead of the MAfia....The Mafia seems more like a crutch than a solution IMHO

TORCO additive will be come your friend for sure LOL, the 60s should be good for that combo....also remember with race fuel Stoichiometry will be different for each. people run A/Fs in the 9s due to the O2 in race fuel. It all depends on what octane and brand you use
 
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Quadcammer

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I didn't kill the motor, but it ran pretty crappy.

With 11:5 compression, you've sort of made your nitrous bed, and it might be time to sleep in it.

With the kind of setup you have, I think you'd be hard pressed to run even 10 psi without torco or race gas, especially in the SA heat.

fwiw, id say stick with the nitrous, it seems like its been working well.
 

droptopsnake01

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like quad said. stay w/ nitrous unless you want to run 110+ all the time.

also 60lb injectors have way more in them than 600hp.

But yes w/ that motor and a D1 you better hit 650rwhp, hell i made 600 w/ a s-trim.

if you want a blower i would change the pistons, but you should just stick to the sauce, your gonna always wich you went w/ a blower though b/c that power is always there
 

Quadcammer

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heres another problem with your plan.

Your headwork is setup to give you the ability to rev pretty high. This is why your numbers are strong. However, even with a very large pulley on a d1sc, if you spin the motor to the point where your combo really starts to work, you will be making more boost than you want. On top of that, if you somehow manage to pulley a D1 down to 10 psi, you'll be on the very low end of the efficiency map of the blower, so you won't be making as much hp per lb of boost.

the bottom line is that if you want a blower, id suggest lower compression or a steady diet of race fuel.
 

GodStang

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60lb injectors are good past 650 rwhp as long as you have big enough pumps and lines. With my old setup I was at 650rwhp and was at 33% duty cycle. I would also recommend the SCT2400 for 700ish and below and SCT2800 for over that.
 

Nazman

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Ok,

Thanks for the imput gents. I have a short block and some 03 heads that Ill be building here before summer hits. Its going into a 4Cyl Fox that I'm going to build. I wanted to build it to be a nitrous car and be my full time "drag car".

I may just build it to be a Blower car and instead do a F1R vs. the D1. It's going to be a .20 over 4.6, SB build by MP, 03 heads ported by me and probably a "stock" SR or Avi SR not sure as of yet to the final induction. Cams will be custume Comps.

The car will not be build on any specific class....just a home brew "track whore".

The reason I was asking was that the filling the nitrous bottles is gettinng old, plus having to run the Nitrous tune, and ensuring the pressure is ok, and all the other BS that comes with it is a bit PITA.

I have 2 bottles, remote BO and all the gadgets...but man...I guess that I need my own filling station and 100LBS tank to fill my own. (good idea!)

Naz
 

viperbluelx

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quadcammer said:
heres another problem with your plan.

Your headwork is setup to give you the ability to rev pretty high. This is why your numbers are strong. However, even with a very large pulley on a d1sc, if you spin the motor to the point where your combo really starts to work, you will be making more boost than you want. On top of that, if you somehow manage to pulley a D1 down to 10 psi, you'll be on the very low end of the efficiency map of the blower, so you won't be making as much hp per lb of boost.

I disagree. A 4.15" pulley on the D1SC make 8psi at 7,000 on a stock motor. With his increased cubic inches and higher flowing heads and cams it makes the motor more efficient which will in effect lower boost, so with the 4.15 pulley I can't see it making much more than 10psi at 7,500 or so.

Also, how do you know the D1 isn't efficient at 10psi, do you have a compressor map, if so i'd like to see it.
 

Quadcammer

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Jesus, they come with a 4.15 inch pulley?

I didn't even know that would clear the valve cover.

As for efficency maps, I can't remember where it was, but one of the mustang rags had it in there a while ago. Like the bigger vorteches, and the novi 2k, they hit the meat of the their efficency at about 15psi or so. Once they hit about 23 or 24 it starts to fall off again, as far as I can remember.
 

viperbluelx

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I can't find compressor maps for any of the Procharger stuff, and they won't email you one even if you own one of their head units, it's pretty ridiculous I think. If anyone can find one I'd like to see it.

The D1 at 10psi seems to work well on my car. The D1 has a curved impellar design whereas the P1 has a straight cut impellar so the boost comes on sooner with the D1.
 

01yellercobra

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viperbluelx said:
If you flip the pulley around and use a shim they will work on the 01's too ;)

How? If I flipped the pulley around it wouldn't line up with the rest of the pullies. Plus, the pulley is coming close to the valve cover. The only way to clear it is to move the head unit towards the driver side of the engine.

I don't think flipping the pulley around is going to fix this;

PulleyCloseup.jpg
 
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