Which turbo kit to go for?

MADRUSSIAN

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Ive seen the light, it was bright and shining right on the turbo setup! Now the problem is, i dont know much about it, so need to do some homework, hope u guys can help. My car is a street car, maybe once in a blue moon it would go to the 1/4, its a street car mainly. I whant make enough power without hurting stock motor, and nothing to carazy/pricey. So any ideas? Single turbo or twins? Plz help with research.
 

blksvttrmin8r

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I'm going with the Hellion T-76 kit which is a single turbo kit. I was originally going with a twin turbo kit but Rick at Amazon talked me into the Hellion kit. I liked that there is no wait on the turbo kit to get here unlike the the twin turbo kits. Shoot TRBO VNM a PM and he will tell you everything you need to know about the kit.
 

MADRUSSIAN

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So whats batter, single t76, twin 50s, 57s, 60s? Can i get to 700rwhp+ with basic kit? Lets say will bone stock cobra with just the turbi kit and nothing more extra make around 700? And if not, what extra stuff should i get?
 

TRBO VNM

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you can make that power with any of the kits. you need to make sure your fuel upgrades are covered and tuning.

you would need a boost controller. electronic is what I recommend, but you can get by with a manual if funds are limited at first.

700 can be made on pump gas. I personally like to keep it safe. I never turn mine up more than 18# on pump gas. although on the street with my street tires, anymore than 15# and it was just unsafe.
 

TurboV3nomVa

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TRBO VNM said:
you would need a boost controller. electronic is what I recommend, but you can get by with a manual if funds are limited at first.
why ? I have had this discussion with a few good supra and rx7 tuners and they all say manual boost controllers allow faster spool and hold boost much better. In fact I know several guys that make 800-1000 at the wheel and they all use manual controllers. All you are really loosing is convenience ....Save yourself 400 bux if youre on a budget and get manual, you will do better then just " get by "

I know the wastegate will stay shut longer with an electronic but I havent really heard enough advantages other then that to warrant spending 500 bux . just my 2 cents
 
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flowgoode

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und3rgr0undk1ng said:
why ? I have had this discussion with a few good supra and rx7 tuners and they all say manual boost controllers allow faster spool and hold boost much better.

und3rgr0undk1ng said:
I know the wastegate will stay shut longer with an electronic but I havent really heard enough advantages other then that to warrant spending 500 bux . just my 2 cents

manual makes you spool faster!? The boost controller has nothing to do with how fast your turbo spools up. The wastegate is closed until it reaches its spring pressure (held back by the boost controller) and then opens. All the boost controller does is hold back the boost in the vacuum line until your desired level and then bleed it to the wastegate to hold that boost level.

Electronic has advantages such as staged boost level where traction might be a problem out of the hole and then when you get into the next gear or reach a certain speed it ups the boost. OR if your running nitrous it will lower the boost or do whatever you want when the nitrous is spraying...etc. its not just so you have the advantage of not having to open the hood to adjust the boost. I've actually had both on my old car and the manual would change boost levels in different temperature days, rain, and snow. You have to constantly change the boost when the weather changes. Electronic (depending on the kind you get) you can set it and forget it or if it is just a knob its right there to dial in and you dont have to guess and pull over on the side of a road to guess again. just my .02
 

TRBO VNM

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flowgoode said:
manual makes you spool faster!? The boost controller has nothing to do with how fast your turbo spools up. The wastegate is closed until it reaches its spring pressure (held back by the boost controller) and then opens. All the boost controller does is hold back the boost in the vacuum line until your desired level and then bleed it to the wastegate to hold that boost level.

Electronic has advantages such as staged boost level where traction might be a problem out of the hole and then when you get into the next gear or reach a certain speed it ups the boost. OR if your running nitrous it will lower the boost or do whatever you want when the nitrous is spraying...etc. its not just so you have the advantage of not having to open the hood to adjust the boost. I've actually had both on my old car and the manual would change boost levels in different temperature days, rain, and snow. You have to constantly change the boost when the weather changes. Electronic (depending on the kind you get) you can set it and forget it or if it is just a knob its right there to dial in and you dont have to guess and pull over on the side of a road to guess again. just my .02

+1. The electronic has a lot of other advantages over the manual. The manual will only allow you to change boost level's and that is it. The electronic allows for other adjustments such as what flowgoode mentioned. the blitz I use has a scramble feature and it will switch between the 4 channels it has for presets by the user and it will stay on each channel for the given timeframe you specify. so you can raise/decrease the boost per channel. also, a lot of the electronic controllers now allow you to view other parameters. such as a/f, rpm, speed, and plenty of others. anything with a 5v signal really.

I don't see how the manual controller will spool faster. the electronic actually has settings to help with spool time. you can also make changes on the fly while driving and not pull over.
 

Juiced46

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Some manual controllers will actually help spool quicker. It depends on which brand you go with however. I run a Hallman Boost controller and it actually works opposite of most other controllers.

I have a cockpit controller with my manual so no need to get out of the car. Its right next to my leg :D

If you have the $$$ definitely go with an Electronic controller. You will have more features to play with and ease of changing settings.

If you decide to go manual. I would recommend the Hallman Pro MBC like I am running

Dave
 

Sharkster

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Im running the VooDoo IV and its dead on. Has a fine tune bleed and all for boost spike. No going over or anything. I hit 15# and it hits 15# and holds. Now I dont know how it will react with climate change but hey $35 and it gets the job done for now until I cant get new Apexi or Blitz
Looks good and you can get it with the in car controller.
 

TRBO VNM

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awesome, I haven't looked into the manuals. nice to know you can get a cockpit control. all the ones I have visually looked at have been in the engine bay. that would definitely be a good alternative
 

mustarrosa

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I use the TurboSmart E-Boost old model with three settings...10lbs 545...14lbs 666 and 18lbs..774 I like the change on the fly and convenience..the new model has staging and more boost settings as features...OH and still like the HPP Racing turbo setup//
 

theArgument

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MADRUSSIAN said:
I whant make enough power without hurting stock motor

MADRUSSIAN said:
Can i get to 700rwhp+ with basic kit? Lets say will bone stock cobra with just the turbi kit and nothing more extra make around 700? And if not, what extra stuff should i get?
These two don't work together. 700rwhp + stock motor = inevitable failure
 

TRBO VNM

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theArgument said:
These two don't work together. 700rwhp + stock motor = inevitable failure

it will all depend on the tune and how disciplined you are. I ran 700+ for over 10k miles with no problem. but I didn't drive around on 700+ daily and beat on it. I only ran that at the track with c16. my tune was very safe as well. I stayed around the 500-600 range daily. And I will say this, I am hard on my cars. I beat the crap out of them while drivng and enjoy it. my foot is made of lead. :-D
 

theArgument

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TRBO VNM said:
it will all depend on the tune and how disciplined you are. I ran 700+ for over 10k miles with no problem. but I didn't drive around on 700+ daily and beat on it. I only ran that at the track with c16. my tune was very safe as well. I stayed around the 500-600 range daily. And I will say this, I am hard on my cars. I beat the crap out of them while drivng and enjoy it. my foot is made of lead. :-D
He is talking about making 700rwhp on the street though, aka 700rwhp all the time. Even if you run alot of octane all the time its still a ticking time bomb.
 

TRBO VNM

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theArgument said:
He is talking about making 700rwhp on the street though, aka 700rwhp all the time. Even if you run alot of octane all the time its still a ticking time bomb.

well, I didn't interpret the post like that. he said it is more of a street car and will be at the 1/4 once in a blue moon and that he would like to make 700+/- with the basic kit.

for a little further explanation then, I personally would not recommend running much over 650 full time and on 93 octane. Again, this is part of being disciplined. some people want to push it and try saying that having a built motor and this and that, so they want to make 700+ on 93 octane. I just have no clue why someone would spend all that money and take the risk. that kind of power on the street and daily driving is just not worth the risk.

granted with a turbo you aren't going to be using that kind of power even when going WOT on the street unless you are running through the gears like a 1/4 run. while I might be hard on the gas pedal, I am not making 1/4 mile blasts after every turn or stop light.

so again, 700 is achievable with the kits, but not something you will find a lot of guys recommending on 93 octane. but the stock motor can handle it without issue if you have everything else in check. people have made more than that safely without issue, but with higher octane.
 
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