What's that screw on the BOV?

Grey03Cobra

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Should I turn it? It looks like something that should be turned. Why else would it be there unless I was supposed to turn it. Which way should it be turned? I think I'm going to turn it.

I'm just wondering if that screw determines how much pressure the BOV will hold. Do you think that could be the cause of me losing boost between the turbo and intake? (maybe that screw isn't turned enough?)
 
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TRBO VNM

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Should I turn it? It looks like something that should be turned. Why else would it be there unless I was supposed to turn it. Which way should it be turned? I think I'm going to turn it.

:lol:, dude, make up your mind. ask the question or go turn it. ROTFLMAO

sorry man, just reading that statement made me laugh like crazy.

now, what screw are you talking about? there are 3 set screws that need allen keys to tighten them and there are 3 nuts on them to lock the screws in. these hold the BOV to the charge pipe. am I missing something? where is this screw you speak of?
 

Grey03Cobra

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:lol:, dude, make up your mind. ask the question or go turn it. ROTFLMAO

sorry man, just reading that statement made me laugh like crazy.

now, what screw are you talking about? there are 3 set screws that need allen keys to tighten them and there are 3 nuts on them to lock the screws in. these hold the BOV to the charge pipe. am I missing something? where is this screw you speak of?

It's not a screw that holds it to the charge pipe. It is a single screw that is sticking way out near where the BOV mounts to the pipe. If you look at your setup I'm sure you will see exactly what I'm talking about.
 

TRBO VNM

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It's not a screw that holds it to the charge pipe. It is a single screw that is sticking way out near where the BOV mounts to the pipe. If you look at your setup I'm sure you will see exactly what I'm talking about.

dude, still have not clue what you are talking about. there are 3 set screws on the TurboXS BOV that lock it to the charge pipe(pipe going to tbody). each set screw has a jam nut on it. then you have a rubber coupler that connects it to the intake pipe(connected to the turbo and MAF) and lastly there is a vac. port on the bottom.

take a pic please.
 

Grey03Cobra

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dude, still have not clue what you are talking about. there are 3 set screws on the TurboXS BOV that lock it to the charge pipe(pipe going to tbody). each set screw has a jam nut on it. then you have a rubber coupler that connects it to the intake pipe(connected to the turbo and MAF) and lastly there is a vac. port on the bottom.

take a pic please.

Yea, I'll have to take a pic when I get home. I just searched all over the TurboXS website to find a pic. Maybe it's one of those three screws that somehow backed way out (almost an inch is exposed).

This is so frustrating, I just want the car to run right. Now I'm starting to get some blue smoke at startup and after a hard run. I think I might need one of those oil restrictors for the turbo. I'm guessing the turbo is getting too much oil. Have you heard of any one else having that problem? I did a lot of searching and found it is fairly common because it is easy to over oil the turbo.

I really wish there was a reputable tuner around here that had turbo experience. There are about 5 places for imports.
 
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TRBO VNM

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is the screw small? if so, there should be 3 of them with little nuts on them. hahaha

on the blue smoke, I personally don't think it is a turbo thing or over oiling. they come with a restrictor and on all the cars I have installed kits I haven't had issues. however, our cars are known to have puff of smoke at start up. some cars do it and some don't. it is very common for people to have the catch cans.

tuning, give Jon Lund a call. www.lundracing.com and check out his contacts page and call him. he has a hellion, tunes mine and my customers and has done a lot of mail order tuning. you just need to capability to log with a laptop and he should be able to get you squared away.
 

Grey03Cobra

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is the screw small? if so, there should be 3 of them with little nuts on them. hahaha

on the blue smoke, I personally don't think it is a turbo thing or over oiling. they come with a restrictor and on all the cars I have installed kits I haven't had issues. however, our cars are known to have puff of smoke at start up. some cars do it and some don't. it is very common for people to have the catch cans.

tuning, give Jon Lund a call. www.lundracing.com and check out his contacts page and call him. he has a hellion, tunes mine and my customers and has done a lot of mail order tuning. you just need to capability to log with a laptop and he should be able to get you squared away.

Thanks, I will probably end up giving him a call. Are mail order tunes safe?
 

04SilverSerpent

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After you get the tune, its still a good idea to take it to a dyno to get a readout on the a/f. You never can be too sure :) especially when you have this kind of an investment.
 

Grey03Cobra

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dude, still have not clue what you are talking about. there are 3 set screws on the TurboXS BOV that lock it to the charge pipe(pipe going to tbody). each set screw has a jam nut on it. then you have a rubber coupler that connects it to the intake pipe(connected to the turbo and MAF) and lastly there is a vac. port on the bottom.

take a pic please.

Okay, here is a pic. You can easily see that big ass screw. There are no more on any other side of the BOV. I think I should turn it.

BOV.jpg
 

XyX

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isnt that to hold it on the pipe?..usually BOV adjustment screws are on the top..like this
greddybov.jpg


And usually you just turn the car on, loosen the screw a good bit..till air is comming out the open end of the blow off..then slowly tighten the screw till there is a good seal and no air is being released at idle.

Blue smoke..oil..hrmm..couldnt be a couple things..your in SC..isnt amazon around there?
 

Grey03Cobra

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isnt that to hold it on the pipe?..usually BOV adjustment screws are on the top..like this
greddybov.jpg


And usually you just turn the car on, loosen the screw a good bit..till air is comming out the open end of the blow off..then slowly tighten the screw till there is a good seal and no air is being released at idle.

Blue smoke..oil..hrmm..couldnt be a couple things..your in SC..isnt amazon around there?

I'm not sure what that screw does. I does seem like it holds it to the pipe, but that seems like a half ass way to attach it, with only one screw that sticks way out.

It only smokes a bit after I get into the boost kind of hard. I drove the Cobra to work this morning and didn't have any smoke on startup or during the drive in. I probably need a catch can.
 

MaximumVelocity

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The long screw in the pic is a half-assed replacement for the original retaining allen set screw that holds it on to the pipe (there should be 2 more or at least the holes for two more). To increase tension and hold more boost, unscrew the top off the BOV and shim the spring with the washers (that are supplied with it).

PS, the washers go in the brass cup/ piston under the spring.

In reference to the smoke after a hard run, it might just be oil getting back in through the PCV system. Other option is that it is oil coming out of the turbo bearing (pull a charge pipe to check).
 

Grey03Cobra

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The long screw in the pic is a half-assed replacement for the original retaining allen set screw that holds it on to the pipe (there should be 2 more or at least the holes for two more). To increase tension and hold more boost, unscrew the top off the BOV and shim the spring with the washers (that are supplied with it).

PS, the washers go in the brass cup/ piston under the spring.

In reference to the smoke after a hard run, it might just be oil getting back in through the PCV system. Other option is that it is oil coming out of the turbo bearing (pull a charge pipe to check).

I looked around the BOV along the same level and saw no more holes or screws. Thanks for the info for the placement of the washers. I plan on doing that tonight or tomorrow. My boost controller is still reading 16psi, but my pillar mounted gauge is still only ready 10psi (my wastegate has a 9lb spring). I figure my boost bypass valve is bleeding boost bad (as I noticed on my dyno sheet during a 16psi run (no boost controller, only 16lb spring in the wastegate).
 

TRBO VNM

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The long screw in the pic is a half-assed replacement for the original retaining allen set screw that holds it on to the pipe (there should be 2 more or at least the holes for two more). To increase tension and hold more boost, unscrew the top off the BOV and shim the spring with the washers (that are supplied with it).

PS, the washers go in the brass cup/ piston under the spring.

In reference to the smoke after a hard run, it might just be oil getting back in through the PCV system. Other option is that it is oil coming out of the turbo bearing (pull a charge pipe to check).

+1. if you paid by cc to the shop, I would be half tempted to do a chargeback for some of the shotty work. That is simply pathetic. the BOV comes with 3 as stated and each are smaller than the crap they put in there and each have a locking nut on them. if you took the BOV off, you would see a groove in the stub and the set screws go into that groove to lock it in place. there are also o-rings in the BOV to seal it to the pipe. nothing wrong with attaching it like this.

very sorry you have had to go back and fix stuff that the shop did wrong.

you should only see 9-10# with that spring and you shoudl have 2 other holes. I can take a pic as well if you want.

did you buy this kit new or used?
 
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danny03cobra

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Mine had 3 small allen screws that i tightened and locked with 3 small bolts. That long screw should not be there.
 

AmazonTuning

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isnt that to hold it on the pipe?..usually BOV adjustment screws are on the top..like this
greddybov.jpg


And usually you just turn the car on, loosen the screw a good bit..till air is comming out the open end of the blow off..then slowly tighten the screw till there is a good seal and no air is being released at idle.

Blue smoke..oil..hrmm..couldnt be a couple things..your in SC..isnt amazon around there?


we are in Anderson SC which is about a 3 hour drive from your area..we have many customers from the Charleston area who drive up here..we also do many Turbo kits installs and tuning..Rick can email you a prelim tune so you can drive up here safetly then fine tune it on the dyno

we would be happy to discuss your tuning needs.. 864 332 0955
 

Grey03Cobra

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we are in Anderson SC which is about a 3 hour drive from your area..we have many customers from the Charleston area who drive up here..we also do many Turbo kits installs and tuning..Rick can email you a prelim tune so you can drive up here safetly then fine tune it on the dyno

we would be happy to discuss your tuning needs.. 864 332 0955

Hi Linn. Yea, you guys did a great job on my Whipple tune a few years back when I got back from Iraq.

I recently got a dyno tune, so I am running safely now. I am just having some problems troubleshooting a few little things.

I know you guys kick ass on the positive displacement blower stuff, but how are you at troubleshooting turbo's? ( I would give you a call and ask, but I can't call long distance on the gov't phone in my office).
 

Grey03Cobra

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+1. if you paid by cc to the shop, I would be half tempted to do a chargeback for some of the shotty work. That is simply pathetic. the BOV comes with 3 as stated and each are smaller than the crap they put in there and each have a locking nut on them. if you took the BOV off, you would see a groove in the stub and the set screws go into that groove to lock it in place. there are also o-rings in the BOV to seal it to the pipe. nothing wrong with attaching it like this.

very sorry you have had to go back and fix stuff that the shop did wrong.

you should only see 9-10# with that spring and you shoudl have 2 other holes. I can take a pic as well if you want.

did you buy this kit new or used?

Ya, I am pretty fed up with a lot if this. I have been waiting so long to get this car running right.

I bought the kit from UPR. They bought it from Hellion with the intent to race it. They installed it but never ran the car with it on. I got the whole kit, including the T76 ball bearing upgrade for $5700. It was too good a deal to pass up. All the parts were with the kit, just the folks who installed it seemed to have half assed a couple of things.

What do you mean I should only see 9-10lbs with that spring?? Do you mean the spring in the BOV? I have a electronic boost controller that is supposed to give me 2-2.5 times the boost that the spring gives to the wastegate. I need to add some shims to the BOV and see what happens. I will check out the BOV when I pull it off and see if there are any other holes for screws and get some good screws for it.
 
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TRBO VNM

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Ya, I am pretty fed up with a lot if this. I have been waiting so long to get this car running right.

I bought the kit from UPR. They bought it from Hellion with the intent to race it. They installed it but never ran the car with it on. I got the whole kit, including the T76 ball bearing upgrade for $5700. It was too good a deal to pass up. All the parts were with the kit, just the folks who installed it seemed to have half assed a couple of things.

What do you mean I should only see 9-10lbs with that spring?? Do you mean the spring in the BOV? I have a electronic boost controller that is supposed to give me 2-2.5 times the boost that the spring gives to the wastegate. I need to add some shims to the BOV and see what happens. I will check out the BOV when I pull it off and see if there are any other holes for screws and get some good screws for it.

yes, just running off the wastegate spring will be 9-10#. the controller increases that as you know.

let me know if you have any other questions.
 

Grey03Cobra

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Mine had 3 small allen screws that i tightened and locked with 3 small bolts. That long screw should not be there.

Yep, you guys are 100% right. I just drove home from work and looked. I missed it last night because it was kind of dark, but I can see the other two screw holes with no screws in them. Any idea where I can get some with the locking nuts? I'll try Turbo XS first I guess. I absolutely cannot stand when someone half asses stuff on the Cobra.

Also, I found out something. I was playing with the boost controller and changed the gain from 5 to 10. According to the manual, actuator type turbos should be between 5-15 and external wastegate turbos should be higher.

Sure enough, I got a full 16psi according to both gauges however, My EBC recorded a boost spike of 22psi when I got off the gas. It did this everytime. I think my vacuum hose to the boost controller solenoid might be too long or something. The solenoid is mounted where the battery used to be. The instructions say the solenoid shouldn't be more than 3 feet from turbo, and it isn't quite that far, but the way the lines are routed it would be close. I might move the solenoid and shorten the vacuum line to see if that helps. I definitely don't want boost spikes like that.

Also, now my car wants to stall whenever I take the car out of gear. It will start right back up and idle fine at a light, but it's annoying as hell. That hasn't happened since I got the tune a week ago.
 

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