OP I'll give you the tip of the day. Find someone with a combo like you will run. Then watch them and research their user profile. Then when you find out they know their crap pm the living daylights out of them. Most members on here will answer every single question. I know I've worn out a few members with questions and they know I greatly appreciated it.
What Supporting mods needed for KB 2.2 @600rwhp?
- Thread starter Tmac01baller
- Start date
+1, dont skip out on the pumps and modded fpdm, i had hesitation issues with the bap..
A modded FPDM is required with GT pump because GT pumps run with more current than stock Cobra pumps. Stock Cobra pumps will pull about 18A while GT pumps can pull 25A. Running GT pumps with a stock FPDM can cause the FPDM to go into thermal shutdown.
I would personally suggest dual FPDMs over a single modified FPDM for a few reasons. First, a dual FPDM system will be able to supply more current to the pumps. A Stage 2 modified FPDM is capable of delivering ~25A of current, while a stock FPDM can deliver about ~18A to each pump. In a nutshell, this means that you'll be able to support more horsepower with dual FPDMs than a single modded FPDM.
Next, if you are able to do the dual FPDM harness yourself, it can actually cost you much less to go duals. Thinking about the absolutely cheapest way to go duals, you only need one additional harness (wired with the factory harness; ~$30 new, less if found in a junk yard), a used FPDM ($40 or less), some wire (~$20), and a relay/plug combo (~$20). Not including a wire upgrade to the battery, since that would be a good idea with either a modded FPDM or dual FPDMs, going duals can run you less than $100. Even with all new parts and being more elaborate, my dual FPDM setup cost me ~$200. A deal on a Stage 2 FPDM is $235.
IMO, the only real advantage to a modded FPDM is ease of install.
I would personally suggest dual FPDMs over a single modified FPDM for a few reasons. First, a dual FPDM system will be able to supply more current to the pumps. A Stage 2 modified FPDM is capable of delivering ~25A of current, while a stock FPDM can deliver about ~18A to each pump. In a nutshell, this means that you'll be able to support more horsepower with dual FPDMs than a single modded FPDM.
Next, if you are able to do the dual FPDM harness yourself, it can actually cost you much less to go duals. Thinking about the absolutely cheapest way to go duals, you only need one additional harness (wired with the factory harness; ~$30 new, less if found in a junk yard), a used FPDM ($40 or less), some wire (~$20), and a relay/plug combo (~$20). Not including a wire upgrade to the battery, since that would be a good idea with either a modded FPDM or dual FPDMs, going duals can run you less than $100. Even with all new parts and being more elaborate, my dual FPDM setup cost me ~$200. A deal on a Stage 2 FPDM is $235.
IMO, the only real advantage to a modded FPDM is ease of install.
probably one of the smartest posts in this thread.
the one thing missing is the Fore hat. how are you going to run the wires from the dual harness to the pumps? forget the drill a hole, grommet and seal all solution. it doesn't last and will leak resulting in possible fire.
but to add to the above post, something else to think about is the factory wiring. sure a modded fpdm works so it doesn't go into thermal shutdown, but I personally wouldn't trust the small gauge wire from the factory to run gt pumps and just a modified fpdm.
to the OP, it has been a long time since I have even looked up a 2.2KB or even seen one. lol refresh my memory, at what boost level does it take to hit 600rwhp with that TS? if it is anything over 18#, I would suggest talking to your tuner. most tuners do not like running more than 17-18# on 93 octane fuel and I doubt you will hit 600 at that boost level without some very aggressive timing or a lot of other motor/cam work.
if you are shooting for the upper 500's or so,
BAP
60's
-8an fuel line upgrade
MAFia
that should support that power.
additional mods
typical midpipe and catback
typical air intake (JLT or the K&N are good choices)
IRS brace
sticky tires
subframe connectors
idler pulley's
clutch upgrades/cooling mod
as far as the tbody, I would recommend a single blade.
Thanks guys. :beer:
I have the progress pictures in another thread, but if anyone is interested in going dual FPDMs on their own, here is a bit of info on how to do it. (Of course, there is the cheaper way I suggested, which is to tie into the factory harness with another FPDM plug. That would only take minor tweaking to my info.)
Other than securing the blue shrink tubed wires (pair going to the 2nd fuel pump) with tape, this picture is my completed dual FPDM setup.
This is the actual harness itself. I went through a lot of trouble making the harness as plug-n-play as possible and without cutting a single factory wire. You don't have to go through this kind of trouble though.
This is a pin-to-pin layout of my harness. If you wanted to tie another FPDM plug to the factory harness, you can picture the same layout without the "connector to factory FPDM plug." As you can see, it only takes splicing 2 wires on the factory harness. One splice is for the PCM signal, and the other is to tie in the relay for power straight from the battery. The other wires from the 2nd FPDM (in red) can go straight to the 2nd fuel pump. Also, don't confuse my labeling of the FPDMs as Master and Slave. One FPDM does not drive another. I only label them that to identify which one uses factory wires and sends duty cycle into to the PCM, and which one uses additional wires.
This is the pin labels for the factory harness. I have also included my edits for my harness assembly.
This is the schematic of my harness, edited from the one found at 03 Cobra Fuel Pump Upgrades.
sweet...thanks guys for all the advice, and if there are any more suggestions keep em coming!
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