What components should I choose for a return setup?

[TermiCustomer]

Hi guys,
At the recommendation of many of you in this thread- https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/

I am deciding to go with a return fuel system purely to increase reliability, and in order to eliminate as many points possible of potential electronic failure from my fuel system.

I have a 2.3 Whipple with a 3 inch upper and 2 lb lower at 19 psi, tuned for 93. Probably around 600 WHP. But that is going to be tuned to a safer ~17 psi with a 3.25 upper. I do not intend to ever run E85. It's not in my area, and I don't particularly need more power. Potential future power increases would come from long tube headers, and a Killer Chiller to keep everything running cool.

Looking at Fore's website, I see an option for a FC2 or FC3 controller. Looking at Lethal's Budget System, there is nothing like this. I see some people on this forum running a Hobbs switch to turn on the second pump at certain times. I see some people with issues of pumps overheating. I see that some people do a deadhead setup to keep the fuel temperature down. I see some install a module in the trunk that turns on the second pump. Ideally I do not want the electronic components like the controller or Hobbs switch. Unless these components are more reliable than a returnless setup with an upgraded FPDM with a functioning BAP.

So again, my goals are: 1. Increase reliability of the car as a whole 2. Simplify/reduce the electronics involved in the fuel system

What specific individual components should I go for, knowing that I am not going much above 600 WHP, and will not ever run E85? Budget is approximately $1200 all in. I am ok with going a bit above that for reliability sake.
Required
Hat/module- ? Fuel pressure regulator - ? Pumps - ? Rail to regulator adaptor- ? Hat to OEM feed line adapter -? Return line - ? Pressure gauge (considering I am getting an Aeroforce interceptor with a fuel pressure connection) ? Wiring -? FRPS adapter - ? Fuel filter -?
Possibly optional
Fuel rails -? Controller- ? Hobbs switch -? Other stuff-?

Thank you very much,
Happy Thanksgiving

 

[cj428mach]

Id hit up Malcolmv8, He's very knowledgeable on fuel systems and a dealer for them. He's also a tuner so he knows all sides of it.

 

[Klaus]

subd, going through same shit. Bonus question: what is best way route to keep fuel cool?

 

[04sleeper]

If you never plan on running E85 and just want a great fuel system, I would go with the Fore L1 kit, with (2) Gss342 pumps and FC2. Shoot me a PM if you would like some pricing.

 

[c6zhombre]

If you never plan on running E85 and just want a great fuel system, I would go with the Fore L1 kit, with (2) Gss342 pumps and FC2. Shoot me a PM if you would like some pricing.

All this right here.

But REALLY think thru whether E85 is in your future. Now is the time to make your component choices to run the corn juice and be done with it. If I had a nickel for every time I’ve read on here “I’ll never want the additional power that ethanol can provide....” I’d have a sack full. It will accommodate your pump gas use until your ready to switch no problem.

I recommend an 04sleeper remote tune as well if he can fit you in to his schedule.

 

[Klaus]

If you never plan on running E85 and just want a great fuel system, I would go with the Fore L1 kit, with (2) Gss342 pumps and FC2. Shoot me a PM if you would like some pricing.

What set up do you recommend if I DO plan on e85?

 

[TermiCustomer]

If you never plan on running E85 and just want a great fuel system, I would go with the Fore L1 kit, with (2) Gss342 pumps and FC2. Shoot me a PM if you would like some pricing.

What set up do you recommend if I DO plan on e85?

I suppose it's not a bad idea to have an E85 compatible setup. What do you recommend 04sleeper?
04sleeper, could you please go into the reasoning for choosing an FC2 over an FC3 or no controller at all? If I understand correctly, the FC3 would allow one pump to be off until needed.
Could you also please recommend a fuel filter and necessary components for that? What kind of lines should I go for- PTFE, FlexLP or Startlite?
Would your recommendations for the filter components and lines be different for an E85 compatible setup?
I'll message you about pricing once we get the products sorted, your recommendations can be helpful to many people in a public thread.
Thank you

 

[9397SVTs]

The Fore L1 is your $1200.00 budget. The E85 compatible L1E kit is almost $400.00 over budget. Neither of these include injectors or rails.

What size injector do you currently have in the car?

 

[TermiCustomer]

I have 60 LB injectors. I think I can live without a fully E85 compatible setup for now

 

[Soap]

Neither of these include injectors or rails.

OP doesn't need rails, especially if this is a budget build. Guys are in the 8's and 850+ rwhp on stock rails.

--Joe

 

[9397SVTs]

I mentioned rails because the OP mentioned going to a return style set up and eliminating points of electronic failure. This would entail a traditional return system, not deadheaded; which requires fuel pump control modules and the rail mounted pressure sensor.

I had no idea that stock 03-04 rails could flow and maintain enough volume to support over 1000 crank horsepower.

 

[04sleeper]

What set up do you recommend if I DO plan on e85?

I would go with the L1E kit if that were the case.

I suppose it's not a bad idea to have an E85 compatible setup. What do you recommend 04sleeper?
04sleeper, could you please go into the reasoning for choosing an FC2 over an FC3 or no controller at all? If I understand correctly, the FC3 would allow one pump to be off until needed.
Could you also please recommend a fuel filter and necessary components for that? What kind of lines should I go for- PTFE, FlexLP or Startlite?
Would your recommendations for the filter components and lines be different for an E85 compatible setup?
I'll message you about pricing once we get the products sorted, your recommendations can be helpful to many people in a public thread.
Thank you

The L1E kit would be the better choice if you ever wanted to go E85. I would then also add a Stainless Steel Element and go with the F90000267 pumps and FC3 Controller and Hobbs Switch. The 267 pumps flow a lot and draw more amps so this is when I would add the Hobbs switch and run 1 full time. (I have this same setup on my 1,000 RWHP TT Coyote)

With the GSS342's, they don't draw a bunch of voltage so you can get away with running them full time and they seem to do well. You can always use your own relays and avoid the FC controllers all together, but they are a nice package all in one.

For the Fuel lines, here is the best explanation: Line Types: Startlite will emit fuel smell and should only be used on cars kept outside or in detached garages/shops. Cars kept in attached garages should use FlexLP or PTFE, which will not emit a fuel smell. PTFE has a stainless outer reinforcement and will last forever, whereas FlexLP has a soft black/gray nylon outer braid and some insulating properties. (no NVH and more friendly with fuel pressure sensors/gauges)

That being said, I would go PTFE and have a lifetime line that will not emit fuel smell.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

The Fore L1 is your $1200.00 budget. The E85 compatible L1E kit is almost $400.00 over budget. Neither of these include injectors or rails.

You are looking at retail prices.

 

[KBR]

I went through all the research and asked everyone possible for advise/input on my fuel system for VMP 2.3 being installed in the next couple weeks. I also talked to Fore sales a few times at length on the phone. I too was looking for budget friendly. I did not like the idea of mounting regulator and on the rail, and did not like having return coming out of FPS port. After much consideration, I went all the way up to Fore L3(almost $800 over your budget) with FC3 controller and Hobbs switch (through 04sleeper). I know rails were not needed, but for clean install and tidy engine compartment it was the right choice for me. I may not run E85 either, but everything is in place.

I'm hoping to make just over 600hp on 93.

Build:
VMP 2.3 w/GT500 TB 3.0 pulley
80lb injectors
Fore L3 return fuel system w/staged Walbro F90000267 450 LPH E85 fuel pumps
SCT BA3000
JLT RAI
Gords HE
Metco double bearing idlers 100x3, 90x 1
Metco tensioner support plate
**car has OE headers, Magnaflow o/r X w/cats and Magnaflow cat back

 

[KEVINS]

I don't know if this opens up some options for you but I pieced together a return setup and used On3 fuel hat and pumps.
I bought 1/2" aluminum lines for feed and return from McmasterCarr and bought a good regulator from Summit for my 2V.
For me going this rout was a lot less expensive than buying a kit.

ks

 

[MG0h3]

Like 04sleeper said you can skip the misnamed "controller" and run two $7 relays. It's very easy and I can direct you to a thread with pics of my setup.

You still need a Hobbs regardless of you want to stage the second pump.

And Kevin you were absent for awhile and now I see you have 1000rwhp....build a motor?

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[KEVINS]

And Kevin you were absent for awhile and now I see you have 1000rwhp....build a motor?

Same long block but stir in custom cams, custom turbos, piping, transmission, Megaquirt Pro and E85. Adjust boost to 32psi, tune accordingly and enjoy..

ks

 

[Klaus]

I would go with the L1E kit if that were the case.


The L1E kit would be the better choice if you ever wanted to go E85. I would then also add a Stainless Steel Element and go with the F90000267 pumps and FC3 Controller and Hobbs Switch. The 267 pumps flow a lot and draw more amps so this is when I would add the Hobbs switch and run 1 full time. (I have this same setup on my 1,000 RWHP TT Coyote)

With the GSS342's, they don't draw a bunch of voltage so you can get away with running them full time and they seem to do well. You can always use your own relays and avoid the FC controllers all together, but they are a nice package all in one.

For the Fuel lines, here is the best explanation: Line Types: Startlite will emit fuel smell and should only be used on cars kept outside or in detached garages/shops. Cars kept in attached garages should use FlexLP or PTFE, which will not emit a fuel smell. PTFE has a stainless outer reinforcement and will last forever, whereas FlexLP has a soft black/gray nylon outer braid and some insulating properties. (no NVH and more friendly with fuel pressure sensors/gauges)

That being said, I would go PTFE and have a lifetime line that will not emit fuel smell.

Let me know if you have any other questions.


You are looking at retail prices.

Injector rec? Will be 5.8 w/ on 3.6 on e85. Have 1050s currently.

 

[MG0h3]

Same long block but stir in custom cams, custom turbos, piping, transmission, Megaquirt Pro and E85. Adjust boost to 32psi, tune accordingly and enjoy..

ks

I was asking @04sleeper about his setup but yours sounds badass too!

I cant remember are you in a cobra or 500?

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[KEVINS]

I was asking @04sleeper about his setup but yours sounds badass too!

Sorry about that! I didn't think you were talking to me so I searched above and didn't see a name... carry on!

 

[04sleeper]

Like 04sleeper said you can skip the misnamed "controller" and run two $7 relays. It's very easy and I can direct you to a thread with pics of my setup.

You still need a Hobbs regardless of you want to stage the second pump.

And Kevin you were absent for awhile and now I see you have 1000rwhp....build a motor?

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Yes. I now have a TT Coyote with a 2015+ Gen 2 Aluminator, 2013 Intake Cams and timing components, Built 6R80, Circle D Converter, Built Rear, Fuel System, E85 (of course).