What components should I choose for a return setup?

TermiCustomer

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Ok, I think I am going to go with the Fore L1 with the GSS342 pumps, PTFE lines, a fuel pressure gauge for setting things up. I'll deal with the consequences of not having E85 compatibility if that day comes. I am going to go with two relays rather than the controller, for simplicity's sake.

Is the supplied regulator in the L1 good enough? Should I deadhead to keep down temperatures and fuel smell? FRPS adapter or block off? What wiring and parts do I need to add? What parts to add the relays and Hobbs switch? What fuel filter and filtration media for pump gas?
Thank you
 

04sleeper

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The regulator supplied will work great!

This system only works in full return which will work fine. I would get the FRPS adapter to keep it hooked up.

You will have to supply your own wiring and relays if you don't get the FC Controller. I would add the Sealed Delphi Connector and 7' 12 AWG pigtail only option as well. You will need it.

I would just run both the small pumps full time. They will run just fine.

This kit keeps use of your factory fuel filter. So it's still OEM.
 

TermiCustomer

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You will have to supply your own wiring and relays if you don't get the FC Controller. I would add the Sealed Delphi Connector and 7' 12 AWG pigtail only option as well. You will need it.

This kit keeps use of your factory fuel filter. So it's still OEM.

Would the Lethal Dual Pump Return Style Fuel System Wiring Harness be all that I need?

What do I need for the Hobbs switch?

I saw Andrew of Mustang Lifestyle run his new fuel filter for a return system along the side of the car. I think it would be well worth the ~$150 to not have to struggle when changing the OEM fuel filter. Do you have a recommendation for a new one?

I was thinking of doing the GT level sender adapter and a GT sender, would that work? I really do not want to break another $130 Cobra sender if I have the choice.

So far:
Fore L1, GSS342 Pumps, Sealed Delphi Connector and 7' 12 AWG Pigtail, PTFE -8 lines, 0-100 psi pressure gauge, FRPS adapter for F1i
Wiring?
Hobbs?
Filter?
Sender?


Thank you
 

Bdubbs

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I once had the level 1 kit with gss342 pumps thinking I'd never run e85.

I was wrong, had to drop the tank again and added aem 320e pumps.

I'd recommend going with the 320e pumps right from the start. I have them running full time, zero problems on 92 or e85.

Edit:. And adding the fc2 controller is super easy to install.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

TermiCustomer

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I'm in a bit of paralysis of analysis. After pricing out the fuel filter and what I need for that, seeing that an 88mm is included with the L1E. This is where I think I'm at. It's a good chunk over my original budget, but I am thinking I should have an E85 compatible setup in case it ever comes to my area, and a quality fuel filter setup that is easily accessible relative to the OEM location.

Fore L1E, TI 267 or AEM320E Pumps (I'm leaning AEM320E, forum search yields many positive remarks), Sealed Delphi Connector and 7' 12 AWG Pigtail, F1i regulator, PTFE -8 lines, 128mm filter upgrade, billet filter mounting bracket, filter monitoring gauge and fitting, 0-100 psi pressure gauge, Honeywell pressure (Hobbs) switch, FRPS adapter for F1i.

Again, this system is intended to increase reliability, so I am totally ok with not having E85 compatibility if the GSS342 pumps will be more reliable than the AEM320E's or TI 267's.

Wiring? Is the Lethal Dual Pump Return Style Fuel System Wiring Harness all that I need?
Pump pre-filters? Do either the AEM320E or TI 267 come with them?
Filtration media type? I think I want to do disposable, if possible.
Sender? Will the GT level sender adapter and a GT sender work?

Trying to finalize this list ASAP, I really appreciate all of the help from you guys.
 
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blownstang4.6

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I don't see the point of you spending money on a return setup, and one that is not even E85 compatible, if you're not going to add power to the car. What's wrong with your current fuel system and what is your current fuel system?
 

TermiCustomer

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https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/

TL; DR. I've owned the car for 4 months, had tons of fuel related issues, tried numerous fixes. I want a more reliable fuel system. That's worth the price to me.

Right now at this very moment, I have a recently purchased OEM style hat with OEM pumps, OEM FPDM. BAP was just removed to see if the car would actually run. Now it actually runs. I would rather buy a return system that has much fewer possible points of electronic failure rather than a new BAP and an upgraded/dual FPDM.
 

fitforspeed

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https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/

TL; DR. I've owned the car for 4 months, had tons of fuel related issues, tried numerous fixes. I want a more reliable fuel system. That's worth the price to me.

Right now at this very moment, I have a recently purchased OEM style hat with OEM pumps, OEM FPDM. BAP was just removed to see if the car would actually run. Now it actually runs. I would rather buy a return system that has much fewer possible points of electronic failure rather than a new BAP and an upgraded/dual FPDM.
I’m just going to add my two cents in here for you. I currently use the Fore hat with two gs342 pumps running full time with just a relay, no controller. I use factory feed line, filter, rails, and 60lb injectors. Fore f1 regulator off the frps port with a -6 return line to the tank. Had it on the car probably 4-5 years with 0 issues. Car puts down 700 rwhp on 93 and 750rwhp on race fuel. I tell you all this just to show that all the extra stuff is not necessary. Is it ok to spend more, sure if you got it go for it. But if you’re working on a budget and aren’t planning to run e-85 anytime soon then no need to overstretch your budget. I’m actually getting ready to upgrade my system currently so that I can run e-85. If you are interested in my current system I should have it off the car in the next month or two.
 

TermiCustomer

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Had it on the car probably 4-5 years with 0 issues.

If you are interested in my current system I should have it off the car in the next month or two.

You put me over the edge for keeping it simple and (relatively) affordable knowing that you ran the 'simple' setup for that long with no issues, making significantly more power than what I will have. Finally, calculating the ~$750 difference in retail prices for everything also made me choose the 'simple' solution.

I appreciate your help and your offer for your system, but I need to get this process going, and I think I want to start with new components.

Fore L1, GSS342, PTFE-8, Sealed Delphi Connector, 0-100psi pressure gauge, FRPS Adapter.
Sourced elsewhere: Lethal Dual Pump Return Wiring Harness, GT Level sender.

I'm assuming the Fore hat has the sender bracket and the Walbros come with prefilters.

04sleeper, please check your messages. I'm ready to purchase. Let's do this.
 

blownstang4.6

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https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...-things-already-i-cant-figure-it-out.1167652/

TL; DR. I've owned the car for 4 months, had tons of fuel related issues, tried numerous fixes. I want a more reliable fuel system. That's worth the price to me.

Right now at this very moment, I have a recently purchased OEM style hat with OEM pumps, OEM FPDM. BAP was just removed to see if the car would actually run. Now it actually runs. I would rather buy a return system that has much fewer possible points of electronic failure rather than a new BAP and an upgraded/dual FPDM.

If the previous owner wired the bap incorrectly and you don't want the headache of trying to correct it then get rid of it and put two Walbro GT Supercar pumps in the hat. I have two brand new ones (F10000302) for sale if you'd be interested. I just did the fuel system on my Mach and stayed returnless but with E85 capable components (Fore hat, dual GT pumps, - 8 feed, modified fpdm, and bap). I have no issues on 93 or E85. For your power level, and wanting to stick with 93, all you need is the two GT pumps, modified Fpdm, and wire upgrade if you don't already have one. $300 vs $1200? for what you have listed. Plus a complete retune vs just dialing in the new pumps, but if youre switching tuners you'll be getting a complete retune anyway.
 

TermiCustomer

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If the previous owner wired the bap incorrectly and you don't want the headache of trying to correct it then get rid of it and put two Walbro GT Supercar pumps in the hat. I have two brand new ones (F10000302) for sale if you'd be interested. I just did the fuel system on my Mach and stayed returnless but with E85 capable components (Fore hat, dual GT pumps, - 8 feed, modified fpdm, and bap). I have no issues on 93 or E85. For your power level, and wanting to stick with 93, all you need is the two GT pumps, modified Fpdm, and wire upgrade if you don't already have one. $300 vs $1200? for what you have listed. Plus a complete retune vs just dialing in the new pumps, but if youre switching tuners you'll be getting a complete retune anyway.

I appreciate you trying to save me a lot of money, but I am done with dealing with returnless. It will be tuned locally as opposed to the mail order tune that came with my car. The car needs to be tuned for the larger pulley (to go down to safe boost levels), CAI (for lower IAT) and slot style MAF (I believe the car is still on a stock MAF) that I have coming, plus the car has not been dynoed other than after the original owner installed an intake, and I really want to know what power I am making after the changes.
 

blownstang4.6

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I appreciate you trying to save me a lot of money, but I am done with dealing with returnless. It will be tuned locally as opposed to the mail order tune that came with my car. The car needs to be tuned for the larger pulley (to go down to safe boost levels), CAI (for lower IAT) and slot style MAF (I believe the car is still on a stock MAF) that I have coming, plus the car has not been dynoed other than after the original owner installed an intake, and I really want to know what power I am making after the changes.

Safe boost levels? Don't you have an 03/04 cobra, which comes with a forged shortblock and has handled 1000rwhp many times?
 

marshall_cobra

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You put me over the edge for keeping it simple and (relatively) affordable knowing that you ran the 'simple' setup for that long with no issues, making significantly more power than what I will have. Finally, calculating the ~$750 difference in retail prices for everything also made me choose the 'simple' solution.

I appreciate your help and your offer for your system, but I need to get this process going, and I think I want to start with new components.

Fore L1, GSS342, PTFE-8, Sealed Delphi Connector, 0-100psi pressure gauge, FRPS Adapter.
Sourced elsewhere: Lethal Dual Pump Return Wiring Harness, GT Level sender.

I'm assuming the Fore hat has the sender bracket and the Walbros come with prefilters.

04sleeper, please check your messages. I'm ready to purchase. Let's do this.


Whats the difference between the Lethal return wiring harness and the Fore FC2 controller? is the lethal setup easier to run? any one better than the other?
 
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blownstang4.6

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c6zhombre recommended it. He seems to know what he's talking about.

I'd like to know the reasoning if you could elaborate. Your car has extremely low compression and it is going to take alot of boost to make good power. If you have the fuel system to handle the power, a forged motor that will handle the power, and a competent tuner, then why would you be backing down the boost? You're saying the car is at 19psi now. He's telling you to pulley down to 18psi in your other thread. Do you really think that is going to make any difference? Get the fuel system redone if it is bothering you and get a retune. You do not need to do anything else. On 19psi with 15-16* of timing on 93 octane you should be in the low 600's.
 
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9397SVTs

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While my car is a '97 Cobra, I am using an '03-'04 Cobra tank. I am using the Fore triple pump hat (3 Walbro GSS 342) It is a return system with the regulator after the rails. Each pump has its own separate relay and fuse. The battery is in the trunk and the relays are attached to the side of the battery box. There is a cable coming from the battery to a distribution block. Each relay receives power from this block, which also has individual fuses. The relays are triggered by the factory fuel pump wire. All 3 relays share the same ground point. Each relay has a 10 AWG wire feeding its corresponding pump.

I tried to upload a picture, but the file is too big. But, this should give you an idea on one way of doing it.

Hope it helps.
 

Nightmare302

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Feel free to message me if you still have any questions. Like Malcom and others I deal with Fore quite regularly and would be happy to help if I can.
 

9397SVTs

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Do you mind sharing how much you paid for the L1 kit?
 

TermiCustomer

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I'm not sure if 04sleeper wants his prices advertised right out in public, but I can tell you I did not find it online for less than what I paid. He is great to deal with, quick responses, my system came quickly and well packed.
 

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