^I was just about to ask how well the Strange front/Viking rear setup would work. I guess there wouldn't really be any noticeable difference in how they would feel just driving around?
weight transfer parts help.
- Thread starter manolith
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I am sure that for street driving you will have to set them up differently than for the track. It must be a lot of fun trying different settings for sure though.
with the adjustables, it makes it easy to fine tune how you want the strip and street
everyone likes their car to ride a little different and this allows you to get what YOU want
everyone likes their car to ride a little different and this allows you to get what YOU want
You can leave them at your track settings around town. Honestly you won't really notice them too much.
Also Viking is providing with their shocks the recommended settings for street/ strip and track.
This way for amateur like me this gives you an idea where to start
This way for amateur like me this gives you an idea where to start
Also Viking is providing with their shocks the recommended settings for street/ strip and track.
This way for amateur like me this gives you an idea where to start
This is correct.
However, most shock/strut companies assume the car is wanting to squat when launching.
The good news is, you guys (S197 owners) have a massive amount of options available for adjusting your instant center on these cars.
You want to work on getting the car to hook via tire, driving, and suspension geometry - THEN use the shocks/struts to dial it in and perfect it.
Going that route, ensures that you are getting the most out of the combo.
An EXCELLENT example of what I am trying to explain is, a poster in this very thread (Justinjor) His car has cut a 1.4X sixty foot with just LCA, Vikings, and tires.....but if you were to average his sixties, they are probably in the mid 1.6X range on nitrous. I have told him about 76 times, when he installs the LCA Brackets, he will likely be over a tenth faster, on average (consistent) which is very important in this hobby.
I have a quick question now that the suspension guys are around. With spherical end adjustable control arms you could change the wheel base by a couple of inches and won't have to worry about any deflections from load so it will be pretty static.. For optimal launch traction is a shorter wheel base better than a longer wheel base?
Longer wheel base is better.
That said, if you run a 27-28" tall tire, you will likely want to keep the wheelbase in the 107.1" range (factory wheelbase)
I am not a fan of playing with the wheelbase on these cars. Tires hitting fenders, drivetrain problems, blehhh.... KISS!
That said, if you run a 27-28" tall tire, you will likely want to keep the wheelbase in the 107.1" range (factory wheelbase)
I am not a fan of playing with the wheelbase on these cars. Tires hitting fenders, drivetrain problems, blehhh.... KISS!
On I got you. I will have to measure my wheel base because I know that its longer than factory right now mayby an inch or two. I still have enough room on the rear bumper to go out a little more. I didn't have any tire marks anywhere along the fender or bumper but I think that I extended it a bit more over the weekend than when I was at the track. The relocation brackets made me have to adjust everything again and I could notice the wheels were a bit further back. I did get four people in the car on my way to the welder and there was no rubbing.
Hmmm..... Sounds like you are running someone else's LCA Relos? On a "bad day" ours are maybe 1/4" - 1/2" off....and that is usually able to be fixed by maneuvering them.
You don't have to say who's you are running, but, I wouldn't accept that with our brackets. 1"+ of lengthening the wheelbase can wreak havoc on the drivetrain.
You don't have to say who's you are running, but, I wouldn't accept that with our brackets. 1"+ of lengthening the wheelbase can wreak havoc on the drivetrain.
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