Weak link in engine??
- Thread starter azimm1984
- Start date
There isn't really a specific weak link to be honest. There are plenty of examples of guys on here making 1xxx + rwhp on stock internals
tight ptw clearance with the stock piston/ring combo.
yup pistons are really the only downfall. Really at those power levels the wrist pins are a lil on the edge too.
Upgraded wrist pins are a good idea. No need to get big ones though. And a piston with a big land to the first ring. I'm running .150 tool steel wrist pins and .300" down first ring and steel rings.
Might as well do main and head studs too and open up the ring gaps.
Not sure what pistons that individual runs, but mine are CPs with a 9cc dish made for a sc/turbo application. They bump the compression up a little too f you are considering longer duration camshafts.
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I run Wiseco pistons. 13cc dish.
Like quick strike said, bump compression, don't run less then 9.0:1.
CP, Ross, Diamond, Wiseco. all make great slugs.
I ordered mine from Modular Head Shop. Great guys to deal with. I originally had a set of Diamond -11cc dish pistons. They didn't end of working on my engine as i ended up having to hone out #7 as it had gotten hot. When i ordered new slugs the diamonds were on a 4week back order. I was guided to the Wiseco's new 4v pistons which are a thing of beauty. Thick skirts and deep ring depth. I didn't like their option for dish depth though. 13 was really to big of a dish, and 6 was to small.
Like quick strike said, bump compression, don't run less then 9.0:1.
CP, Ross, Diamond, Wiseco. all make great slugs.
I ordered mine from Modular Head Shop. Great guys to deal with. I originally had a set of Diamond -11cc dish pistons. They didn't end of working on my engine as i ended up having to hone out #7 as it had gotten hot. When i ordered new slugs the diamonds were on a 4week back order. I was guided to the Wiseco's new 4v pistons which are a thing of beauty. Thick skirts and deep ring depth. I didn't like their option for dish depth though. 13 was really to big of a dish, and 6 was to small.
op:
Yup that's it. For me it was piston #4, it expanded under hard abuse and with such tight clearances scuffed the cylinder wall.
Crank snout if running huge blower and no front crank support pulley assembly. The end of the crank can break off, destroying the entire engine.
But it's fixable for a fairly low cost.
While your engine is apart have your crank snout drilled and tapped deeper for an ARP stud. It will provide a clamping force that starts behind the undercut area near the oil pump. It transfers the load deeper into the cranks where there is more strength.
See here. http://www.modularfords.com/threads/180036-Crank-Tech
But it's fixable for a fairly low cost.
While your engine is apart have your crank snout drilled and tapped deeper for an ARP stud. It will provide a clamping force that starts behind the undercut area near the oil pump. It transfers the load deeper into the cranks where there is more strength.
See here. http://www.modularfords.com/threads/180036-Crank-Tech
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