Viking double adjustable rear IRS coilover kit.

Nightmare302

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Viking has spring rates and valving for taking corners and other kinds of driving besides drag racing.
I run inboard mounted Viking's on my car. I'm also aware you are a dealer for them. I just don't plan to mislead people into buying viking coil overs to go try to take on a road course. Sure they slap a 10 750 spring and call it an autocross shock but I can't say I've ever seen someone at a road course rocking viking not only that but using a stock location coil over is basically worthless as is unless you just want the "cool factor". Tired out V8 Springs and strange shocks have gone faster than 99.9 percent of people on this site.

My point really stems from buying 250 springs and calling them street springs.
 

KBR

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I asked for recommendations for rear coil over setup here and on facebook. 2 people said check out Viking for the rear....I was just about to order MM coil-over kit around #325-350 front and#475-550 range. I can re-use my front struts for now(save money), but rear has to be changed due to no ring on stock Bilstein shock. If these work well for all around performance driving...occasionally going to the strip and driving like I stole it they could save me a little $$$
 

BoostedSVT03

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Some confusion here it seems. Viking are not "handling" setups. If you want improved handling you'd want to run properly valved shocks paired with springs like MM does. These viking use a low spring rate designed to help straight line traction. You would never use a 250 rear spring in a "handling" car.

Disagree, Viking runs many cars for handling. You are correct with the spring rate. They do offer the Crusader line and many of your top Pro Touring cars utilize them.

Like I said before my concern is a heavy spring and heavy cornering weight on a shock bolt holding that pressure.
 

Mpoitrast87

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Just assembled mine. Waiting for warm weather to install them. Wish I waited and got them from lethal. I got a “special price” off of Facebook and ended paying $50 more.
 

KBR

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Just assembled mine. Waiting for warm weather to install them. Wish I waited and got them from lethal. I got a “special price” off of Facebook and ended paying $50 more.

what spring rate did you get?? you get all 4 or just rears?
 

KBR

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I assume these are relatively new for our IRS cobra's...I can't really find any info reviews/pros/cons...durability/performance on them
 

MalcolmV8

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Just assembled mine. Waiting for warm weather to install them. Wish I waited and got them from lethal. I got a “special price” off of Facebook and ended paying $50 more.

That sucks, seen a few of those out there, wish I could have helped you, I do better than Lethal.
 

KBR

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Viking Performance, Inc.
December 28, 2017 ·
*** NEW PRODUCT RELEASE ***

We are excited to now offer a rear double adjustable coil over conversion kit for the 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra IRS application!

This kit is offered in two different ride height ranges. The standard ride height will allow ride height adjustment between Factory to 1.5" drop. There is also a dropped ride height kit that allows ride height adjustment between 1.5" drop to 3" drop.

As always, we offer this kit in both the Warrior or Crusader valving as well as many spring rate options to best match your performance goals!
 

Nightmare302

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Disagree, Viking runs many cars for handling. You are correct with the spring rate. They do offer the Crusader line and many of your top Pro Touring cars utilize them.

Like I said before my concern is a heavy spring and heavy cornering weight on a shock bolt holding that pressure.
Pro-touring does not equal racing. They are not specifically valved for track performance from what I've seen.

Lastly, my largest issue with stock location coil over is the pressure applied to that little bit of tin in the trunk with those spring rates.

I like viking stuff, just don't like when people try to compare it to MM specific setups for "handling".
 

BoostedSVT03

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Pro-touring does not equal racing. They are not specifically valved for track performance from what I've seen.

Lastly, my largest issue with stock location coil over is the pressure applied to that little bit of tin in the trunk with those spring rates.

I like viking stuff, just don't like when people try to compare it to MM specific setups for "handling".

I won’t argue with you about what is considered racing. But share the same concerns about sprung weight and force on locations not designed for it.

As for the Viking stuff it is probably just as good as the MM. I know the Crusader series is amazing and have seen cars run on them.

MM uses gas style shocks (mostly repackaged bilsteins). And Viking is a Oil style.

MM is good, Viking is Good, So is Koni. It really comes down to what your doing with the car.

If your serious about shocks and turning then Penske needs to be at the top of the list but will also be on top $$$ wise.
 

KBR

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I'm thinking about trying them...was wondering what you would run? MM rep recommended #325 front #475 rear for all purpose use. I just want to lower the car, have it ride decent, and have it setup for occasional track(priority: 1. street handling, 2. dragstrip, 3. autocross), I know there is not a setup that will work to the ultimate highest level for all, but something middle of the road that has good manners in all settings.

also if the vikings are 2.5" or 2.25" for clearance issues..I read somewhere Qa1s are 2.5 and interfere with pinch weld.

for future reference from another thread: The wheel rate for the rear of a Mustang with IRS is approximately 33% of the spring rate in the stock location. For example, a 600 lb/in stock location spring has a wheel rate of 198 lb/in. For a coil-over suspension, the wheel rate is approximately 50% of the coil-over spring rate.

many guys really like H&R race springs, so I think that should be a good place to start from.

if I did the math right the equivalent to stock rears would be about #400
H&R race would come out to about #500

2003 SVT Cobra (Conv.) OEM 500 470 (IRS)
2003 SVT Cobra Coupe OEM 600 600 (IRS)
H&R Race 760-850 770 1.6 1.5
 
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KBR

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Pro-touring does not equal racing. They are not specifically valved for track performance from what I've seen.

Lastly, my largest issue with stock location coil over is the pressure applied to that little bit of tin in the trunk with those spring rates.

I like viking stuff, just don't like when people try to compare it to MM specific setups for "handling".

I just got off the phone with a sales/tech guy from MM and he said that stress/load on that location is of no concern.
 

Nightmare302

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I just got off the phone with a sales/tech guy from MM and he said that stress/load on that location is of no concern.
Hit a few potholes and check back with me. There's people who have ripped out their front/rear shock towers using coil overs. These cars were not designed for this, there is no bracing in these areas to support all of that force. Reinforce the area and you will help it.

If you want a magic bullet shock/spring combo you'll be very disappointed. A #600 rear spring will not function in a drag racing environment. A #750 spring will rattle your teeth. You need to define your car and build it towards that goal. If you want a street car use a street spring rate. HR race springs do not help drag racing in any shape or form.
 

KBR

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Hit a few potholes and check back with me. There's people who have ripped out their front/rear shock towers using coil overs. These cars were not designed for this, there is no bracing in these areas to support all of that force. Reinforce the area and you will help it.

If you want a magic bullet shock/spring combo you'll be very disappointed. A #600 rear spring will not function in a drag racing environment. A #750 spring will rattle your teeth. You need to define your car and build it towards that goal. If you want a street car use a street spring rate. HR race springs do not help drag racing in any shape or form.

Thanks for your input. I realize there is no do all magic setup. I was just hoping for some tried and true numbers before I make my purchase. My car will be mostly street driven(cruise nights/shows 5K miles a year) and only driven hard on occasion. I want to be able to drive aggressive, but still enjoy the car. Due to the Viking not having that much feedback since it's new for out cars, i'm now leaning back to getting the front and rear from MM.


*I'll be retaining my front Bilsteins to save a little $$ for now.
MM rep recommended #325 front #475 rear for all purpose use. I just want to lower the car, have it ride decent, and have it setup for occasional track(priority: 1. street handling, 2. dragstrip, 3. autocross)

I've read so many threads on this all the info is spinning in my head.

Possible combos:
F #325 R #475
F #325 R #525
F #350 R #525
F #350 R #550
 

Nightmare302

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I've used #400 #600 with MM valved Bilsteins. Rode very well given their spring rates. Using factory ones you are correct to use the softer spring. In all honesty I don't think you'd notice a difference between them. The #475 would feel a lot like stock and would work well with modified factory rears. If you go with different shocks you will want to pair your shock valving to your spring rate.
 

KBR

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I've used #400 #600 with MM valved Bilsteins. Rode very well given their spring rates. Using factory ones you are correct to use the softer spring. In all honesty I don't think you'd notice a difference between them. The #475 would feel a lot like stock and would work well with modified factory rears. If you go with different shocks you will want to pair your shock valving to your spring rate.

forgot to add...FL frame connectors and Full Tilt Boogie kit going in next month
 

Stage 4.6

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I understand that the H&R springs are not a drag race spring but i really like their stance. What rear viking shock would guys recommend to help give the car a little squat in the rear when at the strip?
 

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