Valve cover removal......

[MG01GT]

Yes Ive done a search already and I have tried both methods to try and get the drivers side valve cover off to no avail. Seems as though I have the one car that doesn't want her valve covers powder coated. Issue now is that I was able to break the drivers side cover loose and it also decided to spit those stupid ass gaskets that go between the head and the valve cover around the spark plug hole into the cam valley.... of course I cant get to them let alone put new ones on. So looking at my options here I feel like trying to remove the block that sticks off the left side of the hydrobooster may allow me the room to get the thing off the fire wall and maybe the valve cover off.... or I have to get and engine hoist and go to town and lower the engine... so I'm asking to see if there is anybody else that has run into this issue and has some guidance and maybe some insight that maybe I'm not seeing here, because for the life of me I can not see how this can be this god damn difficult.

 

[hotcobra03]

I pull hydro booster from fire wall..no need to undo any lines..

4 bolts on booster

un bolt master cyl from booster..

follow brake lines down to frame rail. .un bolt bracket..bolt is just above wheel in fender if I recall..jack car up alittle will expose the bolt for long extension. .

I removed my battery..than swung hydro booster there and tied it back..

remove clutch cable. And you should have all the room to get cover off straight up..

I had a hell of a time with those seals..I used a dab of rtv to hold them during reinstall

 

[hotcobra03]

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/svt_documents.htm

scroll down to 2003 mustang service manual..

there are 2..

main manual click on icon..thats for pc

in that section is also short version that works on cell

It has step by step instructions

manual has every nut bolt wire ...no guess work

 

[cj428mach]

I've tried twice to remove my drivers side valve cover by just taking the motor mount loose. The only way to get the cover out was to remove the hydroboost. I suggest "glueing" the spark plug rubber seals to the valve cover and let it harden before reinstalling the cover.

 

[racebronco2]

I remove the ps reservoir, clutch cable, throttle cable and motor mount. The first time i removed the hyroboost, one line the other 2 times i did not remove the hydroboost or the lines.

 

[NateDogg]

Pretty odd that you can't get it with either method..

Maybe try taking the booster off and raising the motor up a bit. I used the motor mount method and I got it off relatively easy..

 

[MG01GT]

Appreciate the feedback guys, I'm going to look into some pointers that you all mentioned and Ill let you know. I will tell you that the motor mount method did not work for me at all. I took the drivers side mount out, loosened the passenger side and tried raising and lowering with no love..... FML

 

[stangy2004]

While i have my k frame out for header install i'm gonna drop the motor a bit and install me new hydro dipped carbon fiber covers.Should go smoothly:rockon:

 

[MalcolmV8]

Appreciate the feedback guys, I'm going to look into some pointers that you all mentioned and Ill let you know. I will tell you that the motor mount method did not work for me at all. I took the drivers side mount out, loosened the passenger side and tried raising and lowering with no love..... FML

Did you disconnect the exhaust to allow the motor to flex enough? May need to loosen transmission mount too. It definitely works, I've done it.

If you go the hydroboost route and disconnect it from the firewall you don't have to separate it from the master cylinder or disconnect the brake lines. You do need to disconnect that brake line junction box just below the master cylinder so the lines can move around. Disconnecting the booster from the master does make it easier though, but not required if you don't want to.

Speaking of hydro boosters.... oh man so the studs that stick out are just pressed in and sure enough last night I went to pull one off and one of the press fit studs just spun around. Nut was seized on so bad. So flipping tight and hard working under the dash like that. I managed to soak the nut with penetrating oil, apply a little heat and moved it a little but I was screwed. Ended up working through the nut with a dremel and finally got it off. One of the worst possible places to use a flaky press fit that can just spin. Why on earth Ford did that I cannot understand.