Trans install problems after RXT and liberty 26spline and pilot bearing

03cobra 87GN

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Hey guys I need some help

So i got all my parts from lethal performance. And I took my trans to a shop to have a new liberty 26spline input shaft along with lethals TOB sleeve.

So while trans was at shop I installed the new ford racing pilot bearing and hammered it in till the lip was flush with the crank. And installed a new friction disk to my fidanza flywheel.

So I got trans back and I installed a new adj pivot ball but the Lakewood one from lethal was way to short so I ordered a longer Lakewood one from summit. Got that installed and went 4mm shorter than stock (seemed to be a common length w guys w aftermarket flywheels and quadrants like I have)

Got everything together and torqued and ready to install the trans again. Now here's where I want to pull my hair out. Got everything in and the input shaft is in contact with at least one of the disks cause I can't turn the drive shaft to something up front on input shaft is keeping it from turning but I'm about a good inch away and it just won't go any further. So now I'm thinking the disks aren't aligned with the pilot bearing so out comes trans and I losses the pressure plate till where I can move the disks around with the alignment tool. I noticed the O.D. Or alignment tool seems to be a lot smaller than I.D. Of pilot bearing so I think that was the prob so I wrap tape around alignment tool till it fit snug in bearing and re torqued the pp. installing trans again I get it a little further this time but the pins on trans won't align with bell housing and I can't get ANY trans bolts started and I'm extremely frustrated right now I can for the life of me figure out with it won't go the last 3/8" I would use the bolts to pull it but they won't start you guys have a ideas or suggestions. You think the input shaft is not fitting in the pilot bearing or TOB is hitting the clutch disk? I want to get this car done and it's just not going... Any help or anything would be much appreciated, thanks guy.
-Tim
 

Neksnap

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I would have someone sit in the car and hold the clutch pedal down which will free the discs and you can move the trans into position as the splines will be free and easy ta engage all the way as the clutch is beeing held in.....I have down this method several times!! Works like a charm!!
 

03cobra 87GN

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Thanks. We actually tried that the first time but the first time the disks might not have been aligned close enough since the alignment tool was so loose. Its worth a shot again ill try it again tomorrow.

I cant find anybody having any length problems with the parts I have so I cant see how its not going together.
-Tim

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03cobra 87GN

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Ended up getting it in finally only took about 6 hrs of lifting it up and down and working it back and forth. This was by FAR!!! the worst clutch job ive done. But its all in.

First impressions is engagement is about mid way of clutch pedal travel and engagement is very very smooth it almost feels like how the ctuch was right before it started slipping. It doesn't feel aggressive at all. And pedal is stupid easy. Between the pedal and engagement it almost has me worried its not installed right lol. I guess time will tell.

One thing I don't like and im not sure if this is the problem or not but the new tob sleeve I put on from lethal was alot rougher than stocker. You can easily feel the machining finish. Anyway when I press the pedal slowly it feels rough and notchy. So I dont know if its the tob sliding on the new sleeve or something else.

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TermiN8er

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Just a thought, make sure you had all the cables clear on the top of the bell housing. I had a similar issue and ended up pinching my trans harness in the top of the bell housing between the trans and bell housing. I forgot to put my harness back in the bracket. I didn't realize it until my reverse lights stopped working and kept blowing fuses.

Just something to keep an eye out for.

Good Luck and I love my Mcleod twin disk!!
 
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08mojo

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OP: you did not have both discs aligned correctly. For others that may visit this thread, here is how the disc alignment should be done:

McLeod clutch should come with two alignment tools for different size pilot bearings (I am assuming one is for chevy and one is for ford for those with the 26 spline kit). Once you find the right alignment tool, make sure it is fully inserted and centered in the pilot bearing.

Then, make sure the splines of the discs are clocked evenly on the alignment tool. Do this by turning the alignment tool in one direction for half a turn, then turn it the other direction half a turn. This is done to ensure the splines of both discs are in alignment (there is some slop in between the splines of the alignment tool and the discs), you want to ensure both discs are aligned in the same manner. There is not much margin for error in this step--this is something that does not exist on a single disc clutch, so take your time.

Next, you should be ready to bolt on the pressure plate. You MUST ensure the alignment tool is fully inserted into the pilot bearing and CENTERED (the section of the alignment tool that rests against the pilot bearing is tapered, be aware and be certain it is centered). You WILL have to hold (push) the alignment tool tight against the pilot bearing until the pressure plate is bolted down.

Now it's just a simple manner of lifting that heavy t-56 back into place:dw:
 

03cobra 87GN

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Thanks for the replys guys.

The kit did come with two alignment tools. One did say gm 26 spline and thats the one I used because the other said it was a 48 spline and it was noticeably different. The tape method I did seemed to work pretty well made the pilot bearing fit much tighter. And I did the rotating back and fourth and side to said to try and get the disks aligned as best I could. I actually borrowed a universal clutch alignment tool to check alignment after taping original tool but I guess my trans just wanted to fight me tooth and nail going back in. I definitely agree with reply about holding alignment tool tight and centered until the pressure plate is bolted down to make sure the disks stay aligned. Best to have another set of hands to do that.

I was going to jack up car again tomorrow to re adjust my exhaust again so I will double check for any pinched wires but after I got trans in it was sitting flush all the way around.

And yes the t56 is pretty heavy I was definitely tired of lifting it right over my face to put it in lol. But that thing was nowhere near as heavy as my dads trans in his mopar damn that 4 speed was a bear, that install was almost as bad as this fitment wise. We actually had burrs on the clutch and actually had to file the clutch disk to get it to fit on the input shaft.

I also put a few more miles on car and its getting smoother by the mile. Only have about 20 or miles since install, stupid rain.... but looking forward to driving it more. So far the pedal feel and engagement has made this a much much more friendly stop and go driver.

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P49Y-CY

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damn if you guys are heaving that t-56 over your head you are strong!! i def need my cheap harbor freight tranny jack for this job lol
 

03cobra 87GN

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The first couple times we tried using a motorcycle jack but it disnt work to good so we went to picking it by hand. I was in front pops was in back. I had to get it up in the air and than get under it and press it up slide it in. Thats the technique we used to finally get it in. I wish I had a lift, would made this job alot easier lol.

But like I said the t56 was pretty heavy but the 4spd from dads mopar was ALOT heavier. Me and him pulled the 200r4 from the GN a bunch of times but we got that with the motorcycle jack though so it was never to bad.

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08mojo

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damn if you guys are heaving that t-56 over your head you are strong!! i def need my cheap harbor freight tranny jack for this job lol

I have had to pull the transmission twice on this car. Once for a TOB retainer sleeve and once for the clutch. I was able to re-install the transmission by myself (with car on jack stands) the first time--and I have no idea how, but I did know that I would never again install the transmission by myself.

The second time around, I had a helper and it was still a bitch.
 

'03snkbt

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So I have a question.......
Just installed same clutch yesterday (used though......fly-clutch-trans) all came out of a buddies car and into mine, so shouldn't have to break it in.
Anyways, noticing that getting trans into gear is somewhat difficult and wants to "grind" especially into 4th. I almost have to "baby it" to get into gear.
Here's the setup:
Fidanza aluminum fly, rxt twin, viper spec t56, his retainer looked fine, the 26 spline input looked fine and felt solid, new pilot, new McLeod TOB, all new hardware torqued to specs, weight removed from clutch fork and adjustable pivot ball put in, and adjustable firewall adjuster.
Any thoughts......
 

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