The stall. Help!!!
- Thread starter termin80r
- Start date
You need a proper tune, what kind of intake do you have?
Zero mods in sig, and asking for advice does makes it tough for us, does this also mean zero mods on the car?
If the car is bone stock, sure try a reflash.
If the car is bone stock, sure try a reflash.
ported and pullied eaton blower, dnt kno how much boost, but the gauge pegs. fluidyne heat exchanger, new clutch and flywheel, i have a stock intake tube with cold air filter. the car usually die when i push the clutch in when its cold, or from a hard pull when i push the clutch in, rpms drop under 400 and it dies. the car makes 483 rwhp. any help would be great.
I would start by doing a MAF cleaning and making sure all those air tube connections are sealed up tightly. Drive it and see how that goes.
I think I would also clean the IAC and disconnect the battery to trigger a re-learn of the PCM.
If you have a hand held tuner you may want to check for codes and data log certain parameters.
If you don't have a hand held flash tuner I would seriously think about getting an SCT unit.
tried cleaning all those things, also disconnecting battery. i have a diablo sport hand held and show no trouble codes. the main thing im conserned about with getting my computer flashed is will i lose my tune?
Yes you will. You do not want a stock tune flashed into a car with a pulley change.
That would be bad.:nonono:
Has this car been doing it since day one of you owning it?
Or was driving OK and happened out of the blue?
Or was some change made just before it started?
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its been doing it since day one of me owning it. i bought the car from a ford tech. he told me about flashing the computer. if i was to go ahead and do the mods i had planned for the future would the shop that tunes it be able flash it before they tune it? thanks for all the replys, im new to modular motors. theyre alot different from small block chevys
Things to try:
Reset the computer - one week break in.
Clean MAF.
Custom tune SCT.
Check intake setup.
Check Vacuum hoses/pcv.
Check Throttle position sensor voltage(TPS)
Check Air Cleaner
Reset the computer - one week break in.
Clean MAF.
Custom tune SCT.
Check intake setup.
Check Vacuum hoses/pcv.
Check Throttle position sensor voltage(TPS)
Check Air Cleaner
Once you are dealing with a pulley change, there is no point in even trying the factory TSB re-flash for the stall because the tune gets over written when you put a pulley tune in it.
I would look into getting a different tune from one of the top tuners either via Email or in person.
This assuming you have first made sure there are no cracked or disconnected vacuum lines or any vacuum leaks anywhere.
Pretty much any aftermarket tune has anti-stall code in it.
Oh yes the stall. It sucks mega ballz especially when making a left turn in front of on coming traffic. I do not miss it. Most cars can have this issue fixed with a tune. There are however some stubborn staller that understand nothing other than raising the idle on the TB to keep the rpm's from dipping too low when you take a load of the motor.
Mine was such a car. In the winter I would increase my idle to about 1100 to 1200 rpms, and back it off to around 900 rpm's in the warmer months and this got rid of 97% of my stalling. I tried everything. Had all the updates from Ford in my tune, cleaned the TB/IAC, checked the TPS, looked for vacuum leaks, etc, etc, and nothing else worked.
If you exhaust ever other method of curing the stall then raise you idle a little bit. If someone tells you to not touch the idle screw on the TB tell them to STFU, and realize that sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do. Having the car cut off when you are braking or after a WOT run is not a cool thing. It is embarrassing and it is dangerous.
Mine was such a car. In the winter I would increase my idle to about 1100 to 1200 rpms, and back it off to around 900 rpm's in the warmer months and this got rid of 97% of my stalling. I tried everything. Had all the updates from Ford in my tune, cleaned the TB/IAC, checked the TPS, looked for vacuum leaks, etc, etc, and nothing else worked.
If you exhaust ever other method of curing the stall then raise you idle a little bit. If someone tells you to not touch the idle screw on the TB tell them to STFU, and realize that sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do. Having the car cut off when you are braking or after a WOT run is not a cool thing. It is embarrassing and it is dangerous.
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yeah man, i know all about the left turn and stall in traffic. its the only thing i dont like about my cobra lol. if most aftermarket tunes cure the stall how come when the shop dyno tuned the car it didnt fix the problem. my car was dyno tuned in 04 in phoenix way before i had the car. is this a one time fix, or can it come back.
See Ford quickly found out about these cars stalling issues, and set about writing a new tune/update/code(whatever name you want to put to it) to fix these cars stalling problem. They updated it several times to get it right, and it fixes most cars stalling issues.
What these tuners do is they incorporate Fords latest updates for curing the stall in their custom tunes. When people say "get a tune to fix it the stalling issue" that's all the tune shop is going to do. You can go to Ford and get the programming to cure the stall put on your car, but then you'll also have a stock tune which you don't want if you're modded. If the car is still stalling they can attempt to program it to make the RPM's hang more when you take a load off the motor. The reason these cars stall if because the RPM's drop off too fast.
Try unhooking the electric wiring running to your IAC valve and start your car. It should stay running(just barely to the point of it almost choking out) without it. if it cuts right back off you need to adjust the screw on the TB until the cars stays running without the IAC being used.
Still even with all these other little fixes I just ended up having to raise my idle a little high to keep it from stalling.
One thing I can tell you is there use to be someone else on here with a Terminator that gave him fits stalling. After probably two years or more of trying to figure out how to fix it he discovered that his cars "Active Learning" had been disabled in his tune. It's normal for tune shops to cut it off while tuning a car, but them they'll cut it back on when they are finished. In this guys case his shop had forgot to reactivate his cars Active Learning after they tuned it, and that is what was causing his car to stall.
ok, today i last night i went to a different gas station from the one i normally use. filled up from a quarter tank with 93 octane. to day i got off work, open the garage up and jump in the cobra. hammered first and second on my block, and shut it down at the stop sign. NO Stall. every time i get in my car it stalls at that stop sign when engine is cold. So i took it to the highway, stoped at the redlight. when it turned green i hammered 1st and second, shifted to third and pushed the clutch in to stop where i always turn around. still no stall. I Always stall when i turn into this turn around because i have to stop soo fast. Could bad gas from my normal gas station have anything to do with this???
I doubt it was the gas. Maybe it was all that stuff you cleaned taking effect.
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