Supercharger Crank Pulley/Cage Removal HELP!!!

Strable781

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Have been trying to get the 14mm hex head bolt loose from the front crank pulley/cage assembly for on and off about 2 weeks now. We are using a 3/4" ICON breaker bar (and a pipe as an extension) w/ a 14mm hex 3/4" impact socket. While cranking on it, we are moving the car while its on blocks, have the driveshaft bound with a ratchet strap, in 6th gear with the e-brake engaged. Also, even with an F150 strapped to the back wheels to prevent movement, it wont budge the bolt. We have even broke one of the 14mm hex impact sockets already and had to replace it. Does anybody have any advice? Any solution to get the MINIMUM amount of crankshaft/ driveline movement while trying to turn that bolt out? (YES, we know it is a reverse thread and are trying to spin it the correct way) Anybody ever have any luck trying to bind the flex plate? Any help or wisdom is appreciated. Thank you!
 

big dad

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I would apply heat to the head of the bolt, let it heat soak, then try again. I would use a propane torch. You may have to do this a couple of times. Good luck.
 

jwcobra03

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With tension on the crank pulley. Whack it on the tri bar in the correct direction with a drift or extension. This worked great for me. No heat was needed. Good luck.
 

01yellercobra

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I used a 3 ton jack with a breaker bar while my son stepped on the brakes. The car was in the air and the e brake wasn't holding. Slow and steady got it to pop loose. Maybe try the jack method with the heat to see if it'll let go.
 

Skitzerman

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Lift the front of the car. Rig up your socket, break bar and pipe to touch the ground. Slowly drop the car until it pops loose. Adding some heat before you do this will also help. Good luck ..........persistence is a bitch.
 

Dave.O

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Heat it with a torch first, was difficult but it worked



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P49Y-CY

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i was able to do it using the jack method along with the otc flywheel holding tool. no heat
 

efnfast

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Like others said, that is a SOB bolt.

I had a breaker bar with about 15ft of extension and couldn't get it to budge.

One time I was able to remove it by using my 4-post lift - I put my breaker bar on the bolt angled down at the floor, very sloooowly lowered the lift and had the bar wedged against the floor and it finally popped.

Another time I was able to get it off using a floor jack - breaker bar on the bolt angled down at the floor, then slide a floor jack under the beaker bar and start pumping up. There's some youtube videos on it if not clear.
 

efnfast

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Like others said, that is a SOB bolt.

I had a breaker bar with about 15ft of extension and couldn't get it to budge.

One time I was able to remove it by using my 4-post lift - I put my breaker bar on the bolt angled down at the floor, very sloooowly lowered the lift and had the bar wedged against the floor and it finally popped.

Another time I was able to get it off using a floor jack - breaker bar on the bolt angled down at the floor, then slide a floor jack under the beaker bar and start pumping up. There's some youtube videos on it if not clear.
 

hotcobra03

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I use a bar in the transmission yoke to hold crank

What's crazy is it only needs to bust loose. Than it comes off by hand.

The other side of 14 mm Allen is a 2 inch pipe thread in to crank
 

Black02GT

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Everyone has a method I use a jack under the bar with tension. Then take the handle from the jack out, go to the top of the engine and use the handle vertically to reach down to one of the spokes of the pulley. Whack it once with a heavy hammer in the direction loosening. The shock helps break it loose. Works for me everytime. Kind of a makeshift impact situation. I mean once in awhile it takes a few whacks but shouldn't have to beat on it and hasn't caused damage for me.

Ideally you want the pulley in a location where the spoke is at the 3-4 o'clock position. This way you're using all the mech advantage of the pulley diameter not trying to loosen from the center.
 
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