Spec 3+ or Spec Twin??

[MustangMikeKy]

I'm currently deciding between the two. . . I'm going to be launching the car very hard. . .

which would be best for a 600 rwhp cobra, and possible solid axle in the future

Let me know your opinions. . . :rockon:

ps, money is no problem :beer:

 

[04sleeper]

I would go with the Zoom Twin myself.

 

[Sticker Monster]

Spec 3+ I run it in my 03. I lay down 603rwhp. The clutch feels better than stock.
Hell my wife drives the car to the grocery store.

 

[fiveoh2go]

Sticker Monster, off topic but how much boost are you making to get the numbers listed in your sig?

And if it makes any difference I'm awaiting the install of a 3+.

 

[Sticker Monster]

Sticker Monster, off topic but how much boost are you making to get the numbers listed in your sig?

And if it makes any difference I'm awaiting the install of a 3+.

18 PSI. 18 degrees of timing. Pump Gas.

 

[SicStang03]

Spec 3+ should be fine.. It will hold 600 easy.. Just make sure you have a 26 spline input shaft.. I would also recommend a steel flywheel

 

[About2bite]

I'm currently deciding between the two. . . I'm going to be launching the car very hard. . .

which would be best for a 600 rwhp cobra, and possible solid axle in the future

Let me know your opinions. . . :rockon:

ps, money is no problem :beer:

If money is not a problem then the answer is twin disc, and nobody can argue that. There are twin screw guys out here running the Zoom twin dropping the clutch at 6K.

The 3+ is still a great cost effective solution.

 

[Silverboost]

Zoom twin disk if money doesn't matter.

 

[Posi]

Ram Twin Disc. I went with 3+ and wish I wouldn't have. I'm not ragging on it either but it'll take at least 500 miles to get it broken in. So if money isn't an option then just go Twin.

 

[MustangMikeKy]

Zoom twin disk if money doesn't matter.

My close cobra buddy is doing a Zoom twin as we speak, I will wait till he tells me how it is and post it up here . . .

I would go with the Zoom Twin myself.

I will see how it performs in my buddies. . .

Spec 3+ should be fine.. It will hold 600 easy.. Just make sure you have a 26 spline input shaft.. I would also recommend a steel flywheel

already have the 26spline . . . and steel fly



also. . . will the 3+ handle the fast slips that I will have to do???

 

[04RiceEater]

Ram Twin Disc. I went with 3+ and wish I wouldn't have. I'm not ragging on it either but it'll take at least 500 miles to get it broken in. So if money isn't an option then just go Twin.

Yea just installed my spec 3+ and I have driven 300 miles and it still chatters in 1st. Also my mgw is now a bitch to shift into gear? n e ideas? btw I have the adjuster and quadrant.

 

[Sticker Monster]

Yea just installed my spec 3+ and I have driven 300 miles and it still chatters in 1st. Also my mgw is now a bitch to shift into gear? n e ideas? btw I have the adjuster and quadrant.

Mine took around 500 miles for it to stop the chatter. Now it's perfect.

 

[04RiceEater]

Mine took around 500 miles for it to stop the chatter. Now it's perfect.

Yaaa! cool, so it should be fine.

 

[Screamin Cobra]

Ram Twin Disc. I went with 3+ and wish I wouldn't have. I'm not ragging on it either but it'll take at least 500 miles to get it broken in. So if money isn't an option then just go Twin.

+1 with the Ram Twin Disc. I have the Ram TD and love it. It grabs like no other clutch and the pedal effort is a lot less than stock. No chatter what so ever and it is very streetable.

 

[SnakeBit]

Yea just installed my spec 3+ and I have driven 300 miles and it still chatters in 1st. Also my mgw is now a bitch to shift into gear? n e ideas? btw I have the adjuster and quadrant.

It could be your cable adjustment or your transmission oil. You might need a QR quadrant if you run out of firewall adjustment (others with spec 3+ have reported that). It's also possible that an adjustable pivot would help, but that would involve pulling the tranny again.

I'd start by adjusting it so that at the clutch arm (inspection cover off), you can grab the end of the cable with your fingers and pull it away from the clutch arm the slightest amount, even 1/16" is enough. If you still have a hard time shifting, tighten up the firewall adjuster a quarter turn out (tightens the cable against the clutch arm). I would not go any more than 1/2 turn tighter in total because then you risk putting pressure on the P/P. Ideally, there should be at least 1/4" free movement at the top of the travel of the clutch pedal where no pressure is felt (by hand). You want to maximize the pedal movement when pushing in to maximize the movement at the TOB. If you're not completely disengaging your clutch, then your tranny would be harder to shift.
While you're at the tranny, check the transmission oil level by pulling the TOP plug. If no oil leaks out (car level), then you could have a leak. Top it off with a dye added to the oil and you'll find your leak with a black light after a short drive.

 

[Sonic03inSC]

I have a Spec TD and like very much it grabs like a MOFO!!! When I called spec they told me to get the level 2 TD or 1 up from the intro twin disk.

 

[Jroc]

I ordered a McLeod RST TD, but their on back order right know so it will be a few weeks B/F I get mine. The good thing about them is they come with a new friction plate to replace the one one your flywheel, so you just reuse your stock flywheel or any aftermarket one, and that makes the clutch go for about $700, which is about the same price a good single and new flywheel is. It is rated to hold 800 hp or 1000 hp if you upgrade to the RXT. I really wanted the Ram TD but didn't want to spend almost $1,300 right know.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isxYiyYoqGk"]YouTube - RST Clutch Installation & The Science Behind Release[/ame]