Speaker Upgrades?

[fearthesnake]

These speakers are pretty much garbage in these Cars. Had one side replaced for cracking/popping and now the drivers side is doing it. Not going to bother taking it back to Ford.

Has anyone upgraded all the speakers and if so, did the quality improve? I want to start with Speakers 1st, if it doesn't sound to my liking, I'll look to add more Amp/power.

I found on FB Forums a direct replacement Pioneer Sub Woofer in the back, leaning towards it but any Speaker experts on here, what type do you recommend?

Thanks

 

[fearthesnake]

On another note. Driving the car around town today, system sounded like ass.

Turns out none of the back speakers or Sub is working. So back to Ford to see if they can get it right.

3rd time to Dealer for the Sound system. At this point, going to scream for new Amp and Speakers all around.

B&O is complete GARBAGE.

 

[mysticsvt]

Stock stereo is indeed trash. I replaced mine with JL Audio C3 comps up front and coaxial in the rear on a JL Audio 75 x 4 amp and ran a single 12" sub on a JL1000 amp with an Audio Control LC7i under the drivers seat. Also check out Hertz and Focal for mids and I reccomend Sundown Audio for subs and a 10" would do just fine with a good enclosure just to balance out the sound. You can get even better with a sound processor like a Dayton 408. There are tons of paths to take here depending on the end goal and budget.

 

[biminiLX]

I’m also not a fan of the sound system. Just a speaker upgrade including the OEM rear sub sounds like a good option. I’d only keep the factory trunk sub enclosure, not willing to go aftermarket there. What is best for a sub that fits in the stock enclosure?
-J

 

[techi14]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/

 

[fearthesnake]

I’m also not a fan of the sound system. Just a speaker upgrade including the OEM rear sub sounds like a good option. I’d only keep the factory trunk sub enclosure, not willing to go aftermarket there. What is best for a sub that fits in the stock enclosure?
-J

Looks like the Pioneer is a good unit with little fitment issues in stock box.

Still looking for speakers, haven't checked out JL Audio just yet.

 

[Deceptive]

I am replacing the Infinity setup in my GT with Morel and the RF setup in my Mach 1 with Morel.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[4rd Toys]

Try Focal

[Ford Ranger] I have a compete set [Front & Rear] of Focal speakers waiting to be installed...
They have Ford specific speakers that are supposed to be "plug-n-play".

Focal Inside For Ford

I'm taking it a step further and using a Ford Ranger "plug-n-play" custom wire harness to install TWO Kicker KEY amps [4-door speakers & for the custom molded sub-enclosure]

I believe there's a Mustang harness too-

2018+ Mustang B & O Harness

 

[Tob]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/

So I just want to say thanks to J for asking the question and thanks to you for your answer. I went through that entire thread and decided to order the Pioneer subwoofer, the harness connectors, and the poly-fil. I'm very happy with the results. I used snips to create to necessary flanges and to create slots that allowed perfect screw alignent. No wires were cut and I can always put the God-awful stock sub back in to 100% stock if I ever wanted shit sound quality again.

The only tricky part to the mod is getting the OE trim ring off the perforated speaker cover. I made a compound bend at the tip of a fairly blunt dinner knife which allowed me to release the retention tabs with ease. I removed the sub enclosure from the trunk (three bolts and 1 harness disconnect) and did the work on my kitchen counter. Some shots from the install...

 

[Tob]

Thanks again for the heads up on this one!

 

[biminiLX]

Perfect brother! Thanks for posting I’m ready to do this over the winter. Doubly so after hearing how my better the Hellcat bass is stock. I still prefer the 500, but the B&O needs some help
-J

 

[kazman]

Nice mod there! Leave it to Tob to document it properly also.
Does anyone know if there is an equivalent known upgrade to the shaker 1000 factory bass enclosure In the earlier model years?

 

[98 svt]

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Thanks again for the heads up on this one!

You're gonna be sleeping next to that car in the garage when the wife sees what you did to her butter knife.

 

[CobraBob]

EXCELLENT write-up, @Tob. That should greatly help those wanting to upgrade the factory sub-woofer but might not be sure how to do it. Very clean upgrade. Was you wife out of town when you cluttered the kitchen counter like that?

 

[Tob]

You're gonna be sleeping next to that car in the garage when the wife sees what you did to her butter knife.

Was your wife out of town when you cluttered the kitchen counter like that?

You bet your bippy she was! She traveled across the pond to watch the Bills suck. I was home alone and looking for trouble.

I figure now is the time to be a bit more detailed about this mod as I can't remember shit anymore and I'll probably forget everything in a month or two. To start, this is what I ordered, all through Amazon:

Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" Dual 4 ohms Voice Coil Subwoofer, Black ​

RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring Harness​

Fairfield The Original Fil Polyester Poly-Fill, 16 oz, White​

Note that the pigtails are described as fitting Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge. Regardless, they have the proper connectors to mate with the ones Ford has in our beloved fatass pony cars.

Again, the trickiest part of the install is removing the factory retaining ring. I had a number of trim pry tools but all of them were too thick. The knife worked very well. Study the photo I previously posted that shows the location of the tabs and you'll know just where to go. The most difficult ones to reach are at 3 and 9 o'clock as they are the most obstructed. You'll be sliding your tool/knife from the outside diameter and pushing on the wedge side of the pin while applying light, upward pressure on the ring. The wedge portion of the pin will be captured between the two trim ring flanges. From the underside, the pins go through these holes...

You'll be going between the two flanges like so to push on the tab...

The pigtails...I cut the small end connectors off that you see at the bottom of this photo.

I peeled back an inch or so of the sheathing and tinned each so that I ended up with a semi-rigid end. I know the above photo shows the plastic connectors seated but that was just to verify fitment. I actually connected the pigtail harness to the speaker first and one of the last things to do was to plug the connectors together and slip the sub into place - much easier than the other way around.

The Pioneer speaker wire attachment points are spring loaded holes where you push the end of each, insert the wire, and release. I wanted some more positive retention than that. I pushed my tinned ends through each hole and bent the excess wire up and along the Pioneer connector (hidden in the following photo because the wires come out on the back side).

I then wrapped each with electrical tape and because tape falls off over time and with vibration, I added a zip tie so that won't happen.

For reference...the factory Black/Purple wires are negative and Green/Yellow are positive.

The mounting flange on the Pioneer is close to the pattern on the OEM speaker but not a perfect match. The holes on the Pioneer are clocked perfectly but on a slightly smaller circumferential layout. This is why you need to slot the Pioneer hole locations. Not my photo but this shows what I'm getting at...

At each hole location, measure 1" each way from the hole center and snip the flange. You can then bend or peen the new "flange" flat (so you can do much better than what is in the above photo, easily). Then snip from the flange to each side of the hole thus creating a slot. I used snips because it was easy and I didn't want to grind and have dust on the speaker magnet, etc. At the 12 o'clock location you need to cut out a 1" section or so as the factory enclosure has a locating tab there. You could grind the tab off but I left it in case I wanted to be all stock/shitty sound again. So same snips need to be made on the flange, then just use some pliers to work the metal back and forth until the section can be removed. Look closely at the top of the following photo and you can see the piece I removed at the 12 noon location.

Hope that helps.