is there such a thing? im talkin 300+ HP contours, also any vids would rock in my opinion CSVT's are underappreciated. Coming this summer you will see what these things can do on the street, as ill be making a video of mine.
So are there any fast contours on here or what?
- Thread starter ClOckwOrk
- Start date
You got beyonloadedse's turbo beast (BTW when's the final tune gonna happen), DemonSVT(Holds 1/4 mile record), you got suneils car but he's not on here, he sold it too (first to break 400whp), warmongers car he just sold, DanG's and Instigator's cougars (duratec powered, not on here), Buckshots S/C beast, Y2K's 3L nitrous car, and many other high powered cars. These may not all be over 300hp (at least not at the moment). There are many other up and coming cars coming up too.
I've got plans for at least a high rev N/A motor.
Whats your setup gonna be?
I've got plans for at least a high rev N/A motor.
Whats your setup gonna be?
150 shot NX stock bottom end until i blow it up. i have a DIS-4 i will have my nitrous as a single stage setup on the step retard with a 3 gallon fuel cell for the highest octane unleaded fuel i can find i will run the cell just for my fuel solenoid. soon to have MSDS headers with a 2.5 inch trubendz exhaust hopefuly i can have the lengths from the headers to the cat-back made up so i dont have to run a y pipe i'd rather have a true duals setup. i'll have the usual S-AFC, some type of underdrive pulley setup, and a CRYo2 setup for my first gear boost. i want to run low profile drag radials so spraying in first gear really isnt going to work on that big of a shot. if i were to upgrade my kit i could run a dual stage on the nitrous i suppose, like a 50 shot in first gear and 150 there after. i'll probably run the CRY02 in first and see how that goes either way. Once i blow this one to pieces im going to build a 3L with 2.5 heads i want to run around 13:1 so i'll have to get the block decked down a bit to make that happen. when i do that i'll run a 200 shot i'll have to fab up a direct port setup though. when i run the high comp setup i'll upgrade the fuel system some hopefully to put me over the 400 whp mark. welded diff in the tranny and some sort of suspension upgrade will be included there. but, as for now im going to run my stock bottom end while i build the 3L hopefuly i can hit 300 whp on the dyno i plan on putting it on at the Car Craft summer nationals here in MN at the fairgrounds, all you midwest peeps should come out for the weekend it gets pretty wild out here
You won't make 300 wheels even killing the stock 19lb injectors with stupid amounts of fuel rail pressure. You will need to upgrade the injectors and get a chip tuned for them. While you are at it get a flip chip or better yet an X-Cal pro racer 4 position chip.
Stay far away from mail order chips or any MAF hacking the transfer function. That is a piss poor way to do anything.
A fuel pump would be a very smart idea if you really are shooting to break 300 wheels since the return style pump is not safe above ~290.
Stay far away from mail order chips or any MAF hacking the transfer function. That is a piss poor way to do anything.
A fuel pump would be a very smart idea if you really are shooting to break 300 wheels since the return style pump is not safe above ~290.
Demon's right. Ditch the Apex'i unit and the aftermarket DIS. The XCAL2 has the ability to reprogram the stock ECU, plus you can store up to 4 tunes. The stock ECU is very advanced so it is dumb IMO to hack the systems when you can just reprogram the stock one over and over again w/ the XCAL2. And especially for the price you can't beat its capabilities.
Also, instead of going ahead and blowing your 2.5L and then doing a hybrid, save for at least forged pistons (13:1 CR) and use the 3L heads for your 3L. I don't think there is enough valve clearence to get a 13:1 CR just by milling the 2.5L heads. If you plan on running 13:1 compression around town your most likely going to need high octane fuel all the time (ie. not pump fuel). Unless you have 100 octane available to you there.
Welding the stock diff. is useless. It can barely hold up to even the most basic 3L upgrade. Get a Torsen or Quaife LSD.
Good luck w/ your setup. It's good to see people putting the car on the map somewhere.
Also, instead of going ahead and blowing your 2.5L and then doing a hybrid, save for at least forged pistons (13:1 CR) and use the 3L heads for your 3L. I don't think there is enough valve clearence to get a 13:1 CR just by milling the 2.5L heads. If you plan on running 13:1 compression around town your most likely going to need high octane fuel all the time (ie. not pump fuel). Unless you have 100 octane available to you there.
Welding the stock diff. is useless. It can barely hold up to even the most basic 3L upgrade. Get a Torsen or Quaife LSD.
Good luck w/ your setup. It's good to see people putting the car on the map somewhere.
13:1 is easy to obtain although i may have to reduce a little cam lift. that will be known when i build it. as for the DIS, i'm not ditching it. the APexi unit i havent even gotten so i can go anywhere with that. the car will be a weekend driver when it has a 3l in it i'm quite aware that 92 octane will burn too lean on that C/R. i appreciate the suggestions though. as far as motors go i have little experience in building car engines but i have done alot of small stuff (honda motors, and at least 3 small engines a week) i know how things work. i wish i hadnt gotten the DIS since im having troubles with it but im already over 600$ into it and i am pretty set on making it work. i would like to tune my fuel/timing curve on the dyno so i can have advanced timing and just back it off that much more with my step retard when i use nitrous.
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13.1 and 200 shot. :dw:
Reduce cam lift.
Try to control timing with an afterthought timing box on OBD-II.
Launch hard on the glass stock diff.
I think I'll stop there.
That is a big hole you have dug. Nothing you have said adds up.
Did the DIS-4 just bolt right on and work?
Try to control timing with an afterthought timing box on OBD-II.
Launch hard on the glass stock diff.
I think I'll stop there.
That is a big hole you have dug. Nothing you have said adds up.
Did the DIS-4 just bolt right on and work?
you guys know half as much as you think. you can run as much nitrous as you want it all depends on timing and octane. as for the fuel system. i dont need to worry about it with a 3 gallon cell with a seperate pump running only my fuel solenoid. and please dont tell me you know anything about cam work you have obviously done none. if i physically have a clearance problem running 13:1 compression i can have my cams ground and pull my cams apart (next your gonna tell me the cams are not hollow and splined right?) and increase my duration by a tad to make up for the loss in valve movement. its not all that hard to figure out. your argument is to run an engine management system that still leaves me with a lower powered stock ignition system. please just wait a couple months till it gets warm and i get a rough tune in. watch and learn you have pretty much showed me that you know nothing except what the internet has showed you. i have a kit in my trunk ready to go in probably tomorrow, and a MSD hooked up in the car. 19LB injectors are just fine for the N/A side of my setup, the nitrous is not coming off the stock fuel rail so i dont need to run excessive amounts of pressure but yeah keep playing this hand its sure a winner. you will have dyno sheets, time slips, and a video showing you exactly what i know. thats about all ive got for you at this time, i'll be SURE to let you know exactly what i can do.
ClOckwOrk said:
So based on your theory you can put a 500 shot in a 2.5L? I understand some of your undertakings, such as the seperate fuel system for the nitrous, done that 10 years ago on a 5.0. But a motor will only take so much cylinder pressure before it pops. You stuff a duratec with a 200 shot and 13.1 compression and I forsee an oil down.
oke:ClOckwOrk said:
I think you're barking up the wrong tree with some of your comments. How long have you had the car? How much research have you done? You definitely aren't the first person to come on here, or CEG, or any other Contour site and start BS'ing about how you're gonna do this and that, and that you'll show us! I don't think anyone here is going to get upset with you if you prove us wrong, but why have an attitude when people are trying to help you out? :shrug: The stock ignition system has proven sufficient for up to 400whp. the stock differential, hasn't! But hey, you're the one that knows everything, and we veterans are just trying to steer you in the wrong direction. :rollseyes
Mark
Mark
yeah and i said i wasnt sure what i was going to do with the diff. i take in everything you guys say but you think you know it all so im not going to listen to everything you say. stock diff=weak yes i agree. DIS-4 a waste? never. MAF tuning? (safc) yes i believe its a piss poor way to tune, but since i am running a seperate fuel system all i want to do is tweak my curve, i will go further into the fuel system when i put a 3L in. 13:1 compression and 200 shot, i cant see why not. i havent had my contour for more than 5 months but i know about nitrous and i know about engines. actualy ive got a couple snowmobiles that would tear most all the cars on this site a new one. i know that im not the only one to say these things on this site and im not saying i'm right about the structural integrity of the duratec. i havent a clue on how it is going to react, but what i said i am going to do i am going to try. i really never said that i'll be able to go a whole summer on a 100 or a 150 shot on my stock 2.5, but ima gonna do it. dont get all mad because i am telling you i think you are wrong about some things. i listen to you, try listening to me once. i may come across the wrong way on the internet but if you were in person you would see why i am doing things the way i am.
Well hey, I hope everything is a success. I'm sure a 200 shot would be a fuggin' monster! I know that the 100 shot on my 3L is a beast. Personally though, I don't see 13:1 CR making a huge difference compared to the 11.25:1 that I'm running w/ my Hybrid setup. If you're interested in tuning the car yourself, there's a group buy over on www.contour.org that I setup for the Xcal2 and Pro Racer Package(ends this month). Send me a PM if you're interested in pricing. You'd be better off going with this package, than spending any money on the SAFC. I guess the way I see it is, why spend money on the Apexi now, if you're just going to do it right in a few months? Anyway, good luck with your endeavor, and hopefully we'll all learn something from eachother. :rolling:
Mark
Mark
You still didn't answer my one and only question. However I will for you since the DIS-4 takes special tach adapters from a specific lot number or higher. You would think if you had installed it you would have instantly known why I was asking a qualifying question like that wouldn't you?
Also your comment about running any amount of nitrous you want is beyond stupid. Someone already hit on the reason. CYLINDER PRESSURE! No amount of retarding or octane is going to stop the engine from failing at its weakest point from extreme cylinder pressure. Put down the ricer magazines and get a clue newbie.
Yes you can have your cams reground but they DO NOT TAKE THEM APART. Hollow cams has NOTHING to do with grinding a cam and they ARE NOT designed to be torn apart because they are heat swedged in place. (i.e. pulling them apart ruins the shaft and lobes) Not only that but it is a waste of a set of SVT cams but you do not seem to be that bright anyway.
You come here talking out your ass with mostly hair brained childish ideas (yes a couple normal ones mixed in for good measure) and get all pissy when far more knowledgable people let you know about it.
Have fun with you project. I do want to see that sudden torque spike and piston rod shooting through your spleen on video though. That should make for some good reality TV and I hate reality TV.
Also your comment about running any amount of nitrous you want is beyond stupid. Someone already hit on the reason. CYLINDER PRESSURE! No amount of retarding or octane is going to stop the engine from failing at its weakest point from extreme cylinder pressure. Put down the ricer magazines and get a clue newbie.
Yes you can have your cams reground but they DO NOT TAKE THEM APART. Hollow cams has NOTHING to do with grinding a cam and they ARE NOT designed to be torn apart because they are heat swedged in place. (i.e. pulling them apart ruins the shaft and lobes) Not only that but it is a waste of a set of SVT cams but you do not seem to be that bright anyway.
You come here talking out your ass with mostly hair brained childish ideas (yes a couple normal ones mixed in for good measure) and get all pissy when far more knowledgable people let you know about it.
Have fun with you project. I do want to see that sudden torque spike and piston rod shooting through your spleen on video though. That should make for some good reality TV and I hate reality TV.
DemonSVT said:
LOL!!!
first of all yeah i have the tach adaptors and teh MSD still doesnt work. i am getting rid of it. another thing you dont really have any idea about is nitrous. you read too much internet. also i dont have a ricer magazine i have never even picked one up, thats probably why i have a ford you idiot. i have seen people put nitrous on 17:1 compression snowmobile engines without failure. it has EVERYTHING to do with timing, octane, and WHEN YOU USE IT. yeah if i run a 200 shot and try to spray at 3500 rpm i am going to have a problem, and some U shaped rods. now if i run a two stage system spraying in say second gear a 200 shot from 5000 to 6800 rpm and shift to third. i then step DOWN to say a 100 shot because i dont plan on getting too far into third on the gearing i have i wouldnt spray at 4000 with a big shot i dont know about your contour but mine drops to about 4000 after i shift third. you can say all you want i'll even get a close up of the jets im running in my video this summer. as for what you are saying about XCAl2, i might go right for that, depending on the price. this MSD just hasnt proved itself reliable enough to be trusted. by the way, nice internet lingo with the "noobie" and yeah i like this "far more knowledgeable people" crap too. bring any contour ANY contour you can find to the midwest ive got a sled waiting to show you what fast is you "newbie"
ClOckwOrk said:
Ok, I tried to be nice. Now you're talking like a plain fool. I can't wait to see this 200 shot! LOL! As for the snowmobiles, well no shit it's going to be fast. I've seen quite a few 8 and 9 second sleds, what the ****'s your point? You're one of those ricers that says "I'll race your car with my crotch rocket," expecting people to take you seriously. I for one am being serious when I tell you to get a life. Until you have a video of your car doing any of the shit you say, STFU.
Mark
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