Roush Phase 3 on 2011 GT manual, power output low... help!

[cheeseclock]

I pulled the blower off this morning. I see nothing wrong with it. The lobes are still coated. The bypass valve was slightly open. Ever so slightly... I backed off the stop about 1/2 turn. It still doesn't rip my face off. The boost does seem to come on a few hundred RPM sooner though.

Maybe the Roush tune is just stupidly conservative, who knows? One would think that since bone stock Phase 2 kits are faster, there's a problem, but what do I know? Thanks for all your support, Roush.

 

[rhite95]

I pulled the blower off this morning. I see nothing wrong with it. The lobes are still coated. The bypass valve was slightly open. Ever so slightly... I backed off the stop about 1/2 turn. It still doesn't rip my face off. The boost does seem to come on a few hundred RPM sooner though.

Maybe the Roush tune is just stupidly conservative, who knows? One would think that since bone stock Phase 2 kits are faster, there's a problem, but what do I know? Thanks for all your support, Roush.

I think the Roush tune is VERY conservative !! My car only went 114 in the 1/4. It should go way faster then that.

 

[cheeseclock]

I know. That's what I'm saying... Roush finally got back with me today. We'll see how that goes before I throw more money at it and break it trying to keep up with naturally aspirated Chevys.

 

[cheeseclock]

I'm pretty frustrated with the whole thing to be honest.

 

[HOOT12]

Man, I was in the same boat. I had the phase 1 kit tho. I actually bought the 626r kit from brenspeed, which came with a tune. I did the install, then to a dyno shop, they stopped the pull at 4k, then told me I either had bad gas or bad tune. After a little pursuausion from the wonderful members of SVT performance, I opted for a real deal holyfield tune.....AED. I did a few quick data logs for shaun and he found out my tune was way off and also he figured out my intercooler pump was not working. Yes, I know that was ignorance on my part, but as a newbie to the game, I needed to rely on a professional at this point. Keep in mind that I'm 1000 miles away from the tuner and he's figuring this out. Fast forward to my knock issue, he worked me through all possible areas causing knock. We found those. Also keep in mind, he didn't request any money during this process before he actually sent me my first real tune. After I paid him, and a few tune revisions the car is way faster and drives like its supposed to.
Man, it simply sounds like your tune is weak, but nonetheless, we don't want you to damage the car if something is wrong. And that is why countless members are recommending a custom tune with data logging.
Good luck

 

[RJ13GT]

Stop torturing yourself man. There is more to the tune than just peak timing and what you see on the wideband. You have to go through and refine every increment of the rpm range. The tune Roush gives out is so broad to cover variations between the masses of cars. The slow time you ran is expected.

 

[cjd223]

Roush tune is 50 state EPA legal. That should tell you something.

 

[hand-filer]

Roush tune is 50 state EPA legal. That should tell you something.

Does that include the phase 3 kit as well?

 

[cheeseclock]

So the fine folks at Roush were telling me that my IAT was much too high... They were telling me that IAT should be close to ambient, yet mine was 130+ and that was causing timing to be -3*. I reminded them that IAT2 was post blower, while IAT was at ambient temperature and that as far as I know, a knock adder of -3* on a Ford means it's adding 3* of timing. That was a few weeks ago and they haven't graced me with a response. So, pretty much "Get f*cked, you're on your own" from them. I'm done dealing with this. I've pretty much made up my mind to sell it. I have a ton of stock parts that I need to get rid of too, so I guess I'll have to get off my ass and get those listed.

 

[gimmie11s]

wow. Spend the $400 on a good tune. Roush blowers have gone 9s and faster.... pretty well documented on this site. Although none on the stock rousch tune....that should tell you something.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

So the fine folks at Roush were telling me that my IAT was much too high... They were telling me that IAT should be close to ambient, yet mine was 130+ and that was causing timing to be -3*. I reminded them that IAT2 was post blower, while IAT was at ambient temperature and that as far as I know, a knock adder of -3* on a Ford means it's adding 3* of timing. That was a few weeks ago and they haven't graced me with a response. So, pretty much "Get f*cked, you're on your own" from them. I'm done dealing with this. I've pretty much made up my mind to sell it. I have a ton of stock parts that I need to get rid of too, so I guess I'll have to get off my ass and get those listed.

This thread has gone on way to long now.

Why are you dealing with roush on the tune issues? They make a conservative tune that will not blow your motor.

You need to buy a real tune from a known tuner. We can set you up with a lund tune and you will be more then happy with the power/ drivability.

 

[corepwn]

Really this thread makes me laugh. The OP is told over and over and over and OVER again what the problem is, and refuses to accept it.
You have a factory "safe" tune from Roush that dynos 570+ rwhp, probably through the cats too. You're making exactly what you should be and it does not appear to have any hardware problems.

If you want more power, you need to reach out to any of the reputable tuners and follow their advice. There's more than just spark and fueling changes, there's massive differences between the tuners when it comes to the VCT settings, which will have a DIRECT influence on how much boost you see.

You also need to get away from worrying about boost and focusing on the track numbers or even dyno numbers. 570+ is actually quite good for the Roush tune, and you'd likely be 600+ on an aftermarket tune. Boost is a measure of restriction. Example, a car that makes 50 psi can make less than a car pushing 40 psi that has better airflow. I can influence my boost psi by +/- 3 psi depending on how VCT is setup in the tune.

For reference my car never once saw a Roush calibration, and on stock motor with stock gen 1 Roush blower it went 10.24 @ 134 at 3900lbs on 10.5 psi.

With 570 and proper shift points, and a good launch, I'd expect 10s from your car as it sits.

 

[RJ13GT]

Wow what a FAIL. I see someone getting a great deal on a "defective" Roush blower.

 

[_Snake_]

OP -- if you go to a doctor for a problem and aren't happy for whatever reason, wouldn't you go to another doctor? If nothing else, give a tuner an opportunity to look at your logs and give you some feedback.

 

[cjd223]

So the fine folks at Roush were telling me that my IAT was much too high... They were telling me that IAT should be close to ambient, yet mine was 130+ and that was causing timing to be -3*. I reminded them that IAT2 was post blower, while IAT was at ambient temperature and that as far as I know, a knock adder of -3* on a Ford means it's adding 3* of timing. That was a few weeks ago and they haven't graced me with a response. So, pretty much "Get f*cked, you're on your own" from them. I'm done dealing with this. I've pretty much made up my mind to sell it. I have a ton of stock parts that I need to get rid of too, so I guess I'll have to get off my ass and get those listed.

Do I need to send you some money? Stop whining and do as way too many have already suggested. Buy a decent tune. Here's a list of just a few - Lund, AED, JMS, VMP and even AM.

 

[cheeseclock]

There's more to it than this. The car is slow, but that fact aside, I'm getting pretty tired of the car culture in my area in general. I'm going to lay this all out for you guys.

1) Roush started out being very helpful, but I find it interesting that they can't do math and I seemed to know more about what was going on than they did.
2) I've called a couple of vendors. Brenspeed sold me a pulley and tune, then "forgot" and sold their last pulley to another customer.
3) According to the actual OP, he called Shawn at AED who said to make more power, the car has to be revved out (yes, we all know this) and that the stock clutch would never hold up. He also claimed a bunch of other stuff, which I'll let the OP post if he likes. I'm not getting into this.
4) So to make more power, I'm looking at another $1000 in injectors and $400 for a tune (according to VMP). I already have $6300 into the blower kit. I'm honestly tired of this.

I like math...

$38k for the car
$2k for wheels and tires
$1.2k for suspension
$6.3k for supercharger

$47.5k or so not counting any little cosmetic do-dads. I really feel like I've spent enough now and that someone else will really think this car is fast. I'm not looking to make it unreliable or spend another $5k building the engine and another $3k to put a T56 Magnum in it. At that point, wouldn't it be better to just buy a used Hellcat next year or a used GT-R? Aren't we talking lightly used C6 Z06 money?

You don't have to understand why I'm making the choices I am, but at least respect them. I wanted a reliable, fun, fast car and for some, this is exactly that. I want something faster and I can have that if I spend more money, either on this car or something else. Add to this that the car culture in my area is full of a lot of short, fat, bald guys who are so insecure about themselves that they need to talk shit about everyone and it adds up to me being sick of this game. Again, my logic doesn't need to make sense to you. You can throw as much money as you want at your project. That's your right in this country. Just understand that not everyone is a rabid fanboy. I never would have considered a Mustang before 2011. Don't get me wrong. I enjoy the car and it's fun, but there's a certain point where there's diminishing returns. I have a house that I'm in the middle of remodeling. This just isn't as much of a priority. I have better places to spend time and money than trying to impress other dudes with my sweet ride, because we all know that girls just aren't into cars anymore.

Before I finish ranting, it seems telling to me that some of you have said some really unintelligent things over the course of this thread. I'm not sure the reason for it. Again, it's a free country, but if that statement offends you; perhaps you should find another hobby too. Those of you who have been decent, thank you.

 

[cjd223]

I was not picking on you. First of all you do not need new injectors. The 47s will work just fine. You don't need a BAP either. I am running a 79mm pulley with a stock airbox. My STFT is still removing fuel.

 

[soSincerious]

idk, for the money I feel like a mustang is less expensive to modify and maintain than a corvette or GTR. Hellcats will probably still be around 50-55k next year, but if that's your price range then go for it. I bought my car new and I'm still under 30k invested. And that's high to me, I'm normally kinda cheap

You've put a lot of money into your car, what's another few hundred for a tune, really?

Cars aren't cheap even when you leave them stock.

 

[Riptide]

It helps to figure out what you want. Which car you want. And then stick with it. Selling and buying new ones over and over because you are never happy for long is a very expensive way to do things.

 

[hand-filer]

This thread is an epic waste of everyone's time.