Replaceing upper control arm on jack stands?

[Catmonkey]

From the BMR instructions for a 2008 adjustable UCA and mount: 129 ft/lbs for front and rear UCA cross-bolts. Torque the front bolt before installing the bracket on the vehicle (difficult to impossible to torque properly once on the car). If you have the OEM rubber bushing on top of the rear differential, torque the rear bolt with the suspension loaded.

Use the upper bracket hole closest to the body for stock ride height and lowered rear suspension.

^ All on point. The torque spec on the bolt on the bracket under the back seat is not in the instructions, but it should be in the shop manual. My 2012 has a larger bolt and likely a higher torque spec, so I won't post that. Here's a link to BRM's instructions.

Upper mount instructions

 

[Robert M]

I know, right? I’m more about GO than SHOW, but my next major project will be a rear axle refresh including sand blasting and semi-gloss black paint or powder-coat.

I know what you are saying, it is a "show thing" (and housing protection). Except for saving $$, I don't know why Ford didn't protect the Mustang axle housing better..............UNTIL 2011 after MANY enthusiast complained about the axle under their 2005-2010 Mustang rusting.......THEN Ford stepped up and spent the few extra $$ per axle assy. and coated the bare metal.


R

 

[Robert M]

^ All on point. The torque spec on the bolt on the bracket under the back seat is not in the instructions, but it should be in the shop manual. My 2012 has a larger bolt and likely a higher torque spec, so I won't post that. Here's a link to BRM's instructions.

Upper mount instructions

I put the 2011-2014 BMR UCA/UCM in my 2008, and if I remember correctly, the torque on that under seat bolt was at the 129ft. lbs. or higher...........I was wondering if the floor pan tunnel was going to start to bend.............It was a lot of torque on that bolt too.


R

 

[Catmonkey]

I put the 2011-2014 BMR UCA/UCM in my 2008, and if I remember correctly, the torque on that under seat bolt was at the 129ft. lbs. or higher...........I was wondering if the floor pan tunnel was going to start to bend.............It was a lot of torque on that bolt too.

I would think it's more than that. The spec on my 2012 is 325 lb. ft. It took a cheater pipe to get it off. My torque wrench only goes to 250 lb. ft., so I torqued to that and gave it another 1/8 turn with the cheater pipe.

 

[Robert M]

I would think it's more than that. The spec on my 2012 is 325 lb. ft. It took a cheater pipe to get it off. My torque wrench only goes to 250 lb. ft., so I torqued to that and gave it another 1/8 turn with the cheater pipe.

I was thinking bullet point #10 in the BMR instructions linked above was for this specific under seat bolt?

"10. Insert the OE bolt into the upper front hole located inside the car and tighten to 129 ft/lbs. using an 18mm socket. Reinstall the rear seat."


R

 

[Catmonkey]

If it's the same thread and pitch as the bolts that go through the arm's attachment points, then that might be correct. I seem to think it's larger. I know Ford used a larger bolt on the 2011 up, but it must be substantially larger. That spec is in my service manual, so the 07-10 value should be in there as well. I just looked up the BMR instructions for my car and it says 240 lb. ft. for the same bolt Ford gives a spec of 325 lb. ft. I doubt the BRM bracket is flimsier than the Ford bracket.

 

[SCGallo2]

Except for saving $$, I don't know why Ford didn't protect the Mustang axle housing better..............UNTIL 2011 after MANY enthusiast complained about the axle under their 2005-2010 Mustang rusting.......THEN Ford stepped up and spent the few extra $$ per axle assy. and coated the bare metal.

I don't understand it either... it's sad that Ford allowed a GT500 to roll off the assembly line that way. Now that I have a MM K-member and all new hardware upfront, the rear axle is an eye sore.

I was thinking bullet point #10 in the BMR instructions linked above was for this specific under seat bolt?

"10. Insert the OE bolt into the upper front hole located inside the car and tighten to 129 ft/lbs. using an 18mm socket. Reinstall the rear seat."

Yes, you are correct.

 

[Robert M]

If it's the same thread and pitch as the bolts that go through the arm's attachment points, then that might be correct. I seem to think it's larger. I know Ford used a larger bolt on the 2011 up, but it must be substantially larger. That spec is in my service manual, so the 07-10 value should be in there as well. I just looked up the BMR instructions for my car and it says 240 lb. ft. for the same bolt Ford gives a spec of 325 lb. ft. I doubt the BRM bracket is flimsier than the Ford bracket.

I was thinking that 200ft lbs was what I did for the 2011-2014 BMR in my 2008, and I was thinking I called BMR (maybe talked to Kelly) to get that info. I don't remember for sure, that has been many moons ago..........

I do remember that I first installed the smaller/shorter 2007-2010 BMR in my car, and it worked fine...........but then I started do some research on changes Ford had made to the oem UCA/UCM and thought to myself.............hmmmm, why did Ford spend the engineering time and money make these changes? Then I did a little more research and found that BMR had also upsized everything related to the UCA/UCM for their 2011-2014 Mustang application, so I found a 2011-2014 BMR and attempted a retro fit of that larger/more robust UCA/UCM in an earlier car.........and it worked with no mods to my car. I have had the 2011-2014 BMR UCA/UCM in my 2008 for 5-6 years.........

I do remember the torque specs being higher with the 2011-2014 vs. the 2007-2010, because of the larger hardware.

Even though Ford upgraded the factory UCM for 2011, it is not as robust as the BMR. Sown below, 2007-2010 oem and BMR on left and 2011-2014 oem and BMR on right.....

..............and the 2011-2014 Roush next to the 2011-up oem.......

^^^Unfortunately, Roush only upsized the under seat bolt for their 2011-up and did not increase the "through bolt" size or the arm length......




R

 

[SCGallo2]

OP, it's also a good time to install an axle reservoir if you do any road course or prolonged driving at high speeds.

 

[HillbillyHotRod]

Good info. I do not plan on any racing. I am just up grading and since I have the upper want to install it. As for size BJ says he still has the smaller size and he trashes the heck out of his car so for what I am doing should be okay.

 

[Robert M]

OP, it's also a good time to install an axle reservoir if you do any road course or prolonged driving at high speeds.

View attachment 1548865

^^^I agree with that. I have a GT500KR axle reservoir, but Bob's has such a nice piece I installed it instead, I chose to have it powder coated Black, I wanted it to be there and function, but not stick out as being there when my car is in the air. It turned out nice............




Me personally............I did not need this for racing but more for protection. The barcode sticker on the right axle tube shown below is the only unique "numbers matching" part of the 8.8 axle assy., once it is damaged (which mine was by gear lube vapor) or covered with paint (paint the rusty axle), it is a done deal unless you have one replicated, as I did. The specific VIN sequence numbers (numbers matching) is on the end of this barcode sticker......

"Numbers Matching" drivetrain has proven to be of value to the buyers who spend the big bucks on collector/specialty cars.



R

 

[HillbillyHotRod]

Well got the diff bushing changed out. Biggest headache was getting the rest of the rubber out once I got most of the bushing out. I used a die grinder with a burr bit and got it out eventually.

 

[Catmonkey]

Heating it up with torch helps break the bond. I should have mentioned that. I used a wire brush on a drill attachment to remove what was left.

 

[Robert M]

Heating it up with torch helps break the bond. I should have mentioned that. I used a wire brush on a drill attachment to remove what was left.

Didn't someone in the past use a proper sized hole saw that fit the inside of the sleeve to remove that diff. bushing?

I think I read that somewhere and the hole saw cut the bushing cleanly out of the sleeve......I think?


R

 

[HillbillyHotRod]

Didn't someone in the past use a proper sized hole saw that fit the inside of the sleeve to remove that diff. bushing?

I think I read that somewhere and the hole saw cut the bushing cleanly out of the sleeve......I think?



R

That is how I did it. Used a 1 1/2" deep hole saw. Made a mess but came right out. Had to go at it on both sides. Biggest pain was then getting the rest out because it is not the exact size of the hole so leaves some still there.

 

[Catmonkey]

I burned mine out with a torch. The hole saw makes sense, but just to remove the center bushing that bonded to the shell. Burning through what remains and heating the shell should make removing the remaining rubber easier. I used something like this to clean the shell.

 

[Zedeater]

Then I did a little more research and found that BMR had also upsized everything related to the UCA/UCM for their 2011-2014 Mustang application, so I found a 2011-2014 BMR and attempted a retro fit of that larger/more robust UCA/UCM in an earlier car.........and it worked with no mods to my car. I have had the 2011-2014 BMR UCA/UCM in my 2008 for 5-6 years.........

..............and the 2011-2014 Roush next to the 2011-up oem.......

View attachment 1548864

^^^Unfortunately, Roush only upsized the under seat bolt for their 2011-up and did not increase the "through bolt" size or the arm length......

R

@Robert M, did you ever try to install the 2011+ Roush mount in your car? I have read some good recommendations for it in my research & I am considering this 2011-2014 Roush upper arm/mount combo for my 2010, but am trying to confirm first that it will work with my car as long as I also source the larger bolt that goes under the rear seat that will be necessary to install it. Any insight you could share would be appreciated.


.

 

[Robert M]

@Robert M, did you ever try to install the 2011+ Roush mount in your car? I have read some good recommendations for it in my research & I am considering this 2011-2014 Roush upper arm/mount combo for my 2010, but am trying to confirm first that it will work with my car as long as I also source the larger bolt that goes under the rear seat that will be necessary to install it. Any insight you could share would be appreciated.

I never did, I went directly from the smaller 2007-2010 BMR UCA/UCM to the larger 2011-2014.

Since the Roush 2011-up is the same shorter length as the original 2007-2010 with only that under seat bolt size upgrade, it should be a simple swap with the correct/larger under seat bolt.

I am trying to remember..........that Roush assy. may have come with the under seat bolt.....


R