Any plans to take orders for those intake manifolds? Im interested in one and live in tampa.
Project: STUPID UNICORN!!!! (Pic heavy)
- Thread starter 98 N/A 4V
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lol. Thanks but it'd probably be cheaper to get a boss intake. I just did it because I wanted a pass side TB placement and I already had it widened from my b-heads. But 4 navi lowers cost me $270, the alum plate was $30 and the b-head upper I already had but you can get them for probably $150.
-Mark
The aussie boss or the plastic boss? I have a number in my head for what i would pay for a manifold like yours.
The aussie has longer runners so it's better for mid range and the boss's shorter runners are more for higher rpm power. Just depends on what or where you want the power (street car or race car).
-Mark
Well after 3 months of being down I got to hear my car run again. 
Here is a idle clip after getting every thing done. Because I went from a lightning MAF to a 3" tube with a HPX slot style meter it wouldn't hold an idle. My tuner said just unplug it for now until he gets it on the dyno.
Ran into a few minor roadblocks.
1. ATI damper is a press on fit. F'd up my threads on the crank. Had to buy a tap to clean them up and put the damper on with an install tool. Lesson learned.
2. Because the ATI has a bigger hub I had to get a different crank bolt. The $30 dollar ARP bolt I bought was too short. Luckily I found a nice guy on Yellowbullet that gave me a longer one for free.
3. Grinded down the crank trigger boss on the timing cover so that the damper would clear it.
4. My favorite: The head shop I sent my heads to put a thin sleeve in for the spark plug thread but didn't anchor it down so it came out. Needless to say I'm going to put a timesert in it.
So I think I win the prize for being the most patient person. I bought my blower in 2009 and finally put it on after 7 yrs. lol.
-Mark
Here is a idle clip after getting every thing done. Because I went from a lightning MAF to a 3" tube with a HPX slot style meter it wouldn't hold an idle. My tuner said just unplug it for now until he gets it on the dyno. Ran into a few minor roadblocks.
1. ATI damper is a press on fit. F'd up my threads on the crank. Had to buy a tap to clean them up and put the damper on with an install tool. Lesson learned.
2. Because the ATI has a bigger hub I had to get a different crank bolt. The $30 dollar ARP bolt I bought was too short. Luckily I found a nice guy on Yellowbullet that gave me a longer one for free.
3. Grinded down the crank trigger boss on the timing cover so that the damper would clear it.
4. My favorite: The head shop I sent my heads to put a thin sleeve in for the spark plug thread but didn't anchor it down so it came out. Needless to say I'm going to put a timesert in it.
So I think I win the prize for being the most patient person. I bought my blower in 2009 and finally put it on after 7 yrs. lol.
-Mark
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Very nice can't wait to hear the numbers man what's it pullied for?
3.5" on the blower and 12% OD on the lower. I've heard people make 12-13lbs with just a 3.5" upper and stock damper. So I'm shooting for 15-16psi and 650rwhp.
-Mark
Very nice keep us posted btw I have a question about cowl hoods I noticed yours do you have it open in back to make it functional I am looking to relieve heat to cool the kenne bell at cruise and wot will one work for that
It is open in the back just with a thin wire mesh to keep the leaves out. From what I have seen many 3" cowls have an opening in the back.
-Mark
Thank you I will be looking at getting one soon good luck on the numbers can't wait to find out
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