Any updates with the blower on?
Project: STUPID UNICORN!!!! (Pic heavy)
- Thread starter 98 N/A 4V
- Start date
No, I have a small coolant leak I'm chasing. I think my oil cooler seals are going.
I'm also redoing my intake to get it to peak higher. Hopefully have some new numbers in the next month.
-Mark
So if anyone wants to know if a 5.4 DOHC with longtubes and the tranny bolted to the motor can be removed from the top? Here is your answer:
Now I know what you're thinking. Why would I remove a good running motor? Well the answer is located in the picture somewhere.
It cost me $0.00. So I did it.
I went to take a picture and my father in law decided to strike a pose.
Now I know what you're thinking. Why would I remove a good running motor? Well the answer is located in the picture somewhere.
It cost me $0.00. So I did it.I went to take a picture and my father in law decided to strike a pose.
So if anyone wants to know if a 5.4 DOHC with longtubes and the tranny bolted to the motor can be removed from the top? Here is your answer:
Now I know what you're thinking. Why would I remove a good running motor? Well the answer is located in the picture somewhere.
I went to take a picture and my father in law decided to strike a pose.
Heads/intake in the left corner?
Dude... how come you never told us that your father-in-law was Hulk Hogan?
So what heads are going on it?
So what heads are going on it?
"Let me tell you somthin brother!" lol. They are ported navi's. The intake will be a custom piece. It is literally in 6 pieces right now.
I'm starting to think I should wait to put the blower on until I get my new tranny. Otherwise my T45 will puke when I hit it with over 500rwtq.
-Mark
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A little update on the intake:
I used my gasket as a stencil. Came out pretty good.
Once I got the holes in the plate I started looking for some belled ends. The problem I had was that the belled ends would either hit the upper hat or hit the bolts that hold the plate to the runners. So I decided to flare out the holes as much as I could. when looking at my b-headed runners the flaring is darn close.
The dark sections inside the runners is the original diameter of the runners. You can see where the flare starts with the light color.
Finished product:
I used my gasket as a stencil. Came out pretty good.
Once I got the holes in the plate I started looking for some belled ends. The problem I had was that the belled ends would either hit the upper hat or hit the bolts that hold the plate to the runners. So I decided to flare out the holes as much as I could. when looking at my b-headed runners the flaring is darn close.
The dark sections inside the runners is the original diameter of the runners. You can see where the flare starts with the light color.
Finished product:
Man is it hot outside. Just got back from the dyno. Overall I'm pleased with the results. A lower compression motor with blower cams made pretty good power N/A. I'd say the swap to C's was worth it. Was cool to hear this thing zing to 7500.
Those are c heads or ported navis?
What lower intake are you using? Looks factory.
What lower intake are you using? Looks factory.
Navi heads like 03/04 and 9/1s are Cs. The heads on this are Navis.
look above
What an awesome build! Just read from start to finish, quite a journey. The new intake set up with the C heads looks wicked. Can't wait to see it with the blower on.
Navs... as "The Todd" said. Valve job and smoothed the short turn radius a little. The lower I made.
-Mark
Thanks man. Yes is was a journey for sure. lol. Many nights full of swearing and sweating. Ha!
-Mark
Last outing on motor yesterday. Was expecting cooler weather but FL broke it's own heat record for the month of November this year. High of 92. But yesterday it was 84-86*. Calculated DA was 2000ft or so according to dragtimes. Car was 60'ing good. Had a good time.
I picked up mph in the 1/8 but on the top end no change. Leads me to believe my advanced auto clutch is slipping in 4th. But **** it. I'm putting in a MVB 4R75E in it. Probably would have went 11.30's in 60* weather.
My friend got a slo mo vid of my launch. Sorry for the crappy quality. She has a potato iphone so not the greatest. I tried to get her to get behind me on the starting line but they wouldn't let her.
FF to about :25 in the vid..
http://s174.photobucket.com/user/Bitemark46/media/Car/Slow%20motion%20launch_zpsfep2fmsw.mp4.html?filters[user]=39144907&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
Next posted slips will be 9.90's at 135ish. :coolman:
-Mark
I picked up mph in the 1/8 but on the top end no change. Leads me to believe my advanced auto clutch is slipping in 4th. But **** it. I'm putting in a MVB 4R75E in it. Probably would have went 11.30's in 60* weather.
My friend got a slo mo vid of my launch. Sorry for the crappy quality. She has a potato iphone so not the greatest. I tried to get her to get behind me on the starting line but they wouldn't let her.
FF to about :25 in the vid..
http://s174.photobucket.com/user/Bitemark46/media/Car/Slow%20motion%20launch_zpsfep2fmsw.mp4.html?filters[user]=39144907&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
Next posted slips will be 9.90's at 135ish. :coolman:
-Mark
Nice times, Mark! I can't wait to see what comes next over the winter!
Thanks man. The 11.48 pass would have been quicker but had way too much tire pressure. Lowered it down then it went consistent low 1.5's.
I'll be sure to post pics of the blower install.
-Mark
I stuck to my guns...... STUPID UNICORN Chapter 2!!!
So I opened up the box from the company that I bought the FMIC and the invoice said June of 2009. haha. Better late than never.
It's a CX Racing kit. I know what most will say about their FMIC's. But I'm going to test the theory because many used their 3" core to the treadstones 3.5" core. Not really apples to apples IMO. I will mount a bung before the IC to measure boost to compare it to my boost gauge inside the car.
31x12x4 mounted up. I have 2 support bars underneath attaching the IC to the radiator support. The IC doesn't budge.
Moved on to the novi bracket mounting. Keep in mind they don't make a novi kit for a 5.4 4v so I bought a kit for a 96-98 cobra. So right out the gate I had an issue with the mounting holes on the 99+ timing cover plate. What I did was cut off the top half of the pass side 4.6 timing plate and weld it to the 5.4 plate. Like this:
So now I was able to get the novi bracket mounted. The only thing I may have to work on is the idler bracket. More on that later.
Got the blower mounted. Then realized.. Uh Duh... reclock the volute!
So I reclocked it and started to look at the pulley configuration. Because of the taller deck height I can't use the alternator bolt like the novi instructions say to use for the idle bracket. This is critical to keep the belt wrap. So I looked to see what I could do. LUCKILY there was a threaded hole in the block that I was able to get a spacer and a bolt through right in the middle of the idler bracket that would not interfere with the idler pulley. I had to shave down the spacer a little. Which leads me to believe on why my idler pulley is off a little. I didn't shave enough off and the bracket is sticking out a little. You be the judge...
At any rate I read all the horror stories about belt slippage and belt throwing so Harvboi (Brandon) recommended I get this:
So I'll ensure all the ribbed pulleys are aligned perfectly.
On to tube routing.... I wanted the straightest shot to the TB I could do. So many of the threads I found had people either going through the existing hole in the fenderwell or cutting a separate hole. I chose to cut another hole (weight reduction) haha. j/k. I used a 3 1/2" hole saw and made 2 holes. I'll put my HPX sensor just before the silicon coupling (blow thru). This will give me a good 10" of straight pipe. Should be ample amount for the sensor to read.
Picked up an almost brand new Vortech Mondo BPV for 200 to my door. Just have to now make a mounting surface on the tubing. It will be the first pipe coming off the blower..
This is where I'm at now. I forgot to pick up a silicon reducer for the TB so RPS has a 4.25" to 3" coupling (****ing 32$ ) that I had to pick up. Waiting for that piece to come in.
Then I'm going to play musical serpentine belt swapping. Not sure on the right length so I'll buy like 3 and return what doesn't fit. I'm guessing around 116".
Get it tuned with the 5 speed then swap over to the MVB auto. :devil:
-Mark
So I opened up the box from the company that I bought the FMIC and the invoice said June of 2009. haha. Better late than never.
It's a CX Racing kit. I know what most will say about their FMIC's. But I'm going to test the theory because many used their 3" core to the treadstones 3.5" core. Not really apples to apples IMO. I will mount a bung before the IC to measure boost to compare it to my boost gauge inside the car.
31x12x4 mounted up. I have 2 support bars underneath attaching the IC to the radiator support. The IC doesn't budge.
Moved on to the novi bracket mounting. Keep in mind they don't make a novi kit for a 5.4 4v so I bought a kit for a 96-98 cobra. So right out the gate I had an issue with the mounting holes on the 99+ timing cover plate. What I did was cut off the top half of the pass side 4.6 timing plate and weld it to the 5.4 plate. Like this:
So now I was able to get the novi bracket mounted. The only thing I may have to work on is the idler bracket. More on that later.
Got the blower mounted. Then realized.. Uh Duh... reclock the volute!
So I reclocked it and started to look at the pulley configuration. Because of the taller deck height I can't use the alternator bolt like the novi instructions say to use for the idle bracket. This is critical to keep the belt wrap. So I looked to see what I could do. LUCKILY there was a threaded hole in the block that I was able to get a spacer and a bolt through right in the middle of the idler bracket that would not interfere with the idler pulley. I had to shave down the spacer a little. Which leads me to believe on why my idler pulley is off a little. I didn't shave enough off and the bracket is sticking out a little. You be the judge...
At any rate I read all the horror stories about belt slippage and belt throwing so Harvboi (Brandon) recommended I get this:
So I'll ensure all the ribbed pulleys are aligned perfectly.
On to tube routing.... I wanted the straightest shot to the TB I could do. So many of the threads I found had people either going through the existing hole in the fenderwell or cutting a separate hole. I chose to cut another hole (weight reduction) haha. j/k. I used a 3 1/2" hole saw and made 2 holes. I'll put my HPX sensor just before the silicon coupling (blow thru). This will give me a good 10" of straight pipe. Should be ample amount for the sensor to read.
Picked up an almost brand new Vortech Mondo BPV for 200 to my door. Just have to now make a mounting surface on the tubing. It will be the first pipe coming off the blower..
This is where I'm at now. I forgot to pick up a silicon reducer for the TB so RPS has a 4.25" to 3" coupling (****ing 32$
) that I had to pick up. Waiting for that piece to come in. Then I'm going to play musical serpentine belt swapping. Not sure on the right length so I'll buy like 3 and return what doesn't fit. I'm guessing around 116".
Get it tuned with the 5 speed then swap over to the MVB auto. :devil:
-Mark
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