Posi port swap build thread

[svtEIN]

Before: stock blower with 2.8 pulley, jlt in fender intake, accufab tb/plenum, o/r prochamber, afco dual pass h/e, bama mail tune. Never saw a dyno with the pulley, but made 420/390 on stock pulley.

To be installed: POSI #100 with 2.76 pulley, ported BF plenum, SCT 2600, KB BAP, 60 lb injectors.

Cliff notes: made 486/444 at only 12 psi. Seems low to me, but it is just motivation to add a lower, bigger i/c tank, and better tb/plenum


I wanted to paint the valve covers while I was at it, so I chose to match them to the burnt copper brake calipers.

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I followed this thread for valve cover removal:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?677968-Valve-Cover-Removal
Everything went as planned. Big thanks to Red Poison for writing it up for all of us. :thumbsup:

I started with removing the passenger valve cover. This was a PITA to get off. Yeah removing everything was easy, but wriggling the cover off took me almost 20 minutes.

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The driver side went as expected. Pulling the brake booster was involved, but doable with the write up I mentioned earlier.

The blower removal was pretty easy. Luckily didn't break any bolts, but to be safe for re-installation, I replaced the intercooler bolts and the lower intake to head bolts with some from the local bolt supply store ($5.35).

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Time for painting

The blower and plenum were powder coated blue from the previous owner. Many like this look, but I think burnt copper metallic compliments silver metallic nicely. I used spray can aircraft remover and strypeez (gel form) to get the power coat off. The reason I had to get strypeez was aircrafter remover wasn't cutting it for factory paint on the valve covers. Is that stuff power coated or what?

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In the meantime, I installed the BAP with 8awg wire to battery. This was confusing at first because I went into this knowing next to nothing about simple wiring. I did my research, bought a solder tool, and practiced ALOT before I went into the trunk. The only thing I didn't solder was the wires from the CCRM and to FPDM. I put connectors on these in case I ever sell the BAP I can just pull it out. I plan to mount the dial on the driver side speaker amp support in the trunk.

I followed this diagram minus the slave FPDM: (I forgot where I got it from)

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Finished(ish) product:

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Back to the engine bay...

Installation was easy, and i had everything back together on Thursday ready to be tuned by Kurgan the next day.

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Big thanks to Bob for being willing to fit me in even though I was over an hour late to the appointment. I hate Atlanta traffic with a passion.

Now for the numbers.. it was in the high 80's and Bob guessed I would make 485 before he even cranked it up. He did three runs, and the car ran great. The last run gave us 486/444 at 12 psi. The boost curve started low and built up almost like a turbo or centri. I was hoping for 500 hp, but I am happy with how the car is running. But of course, I will be upping the boost very shortly. Bob thinks a 4 lb lower would be perfect for me, and I agree.

Here is the dyno chart of the last run. Tell me what you guys think of the boost curve.

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Thanks to Brian (Posi) for chatting with me on Facebook. I will be adding a bigger i/c tank to the mod list as well as a dragon tb/plenum to maximize this new blower.

 

[EB85]

Semi off topic but I am 1000% in love with your color choices. That burnt copper on that black combo looks PERFECT paired with the silver.

 

[svtEIN]

Semi off topic but I am 1000% in love with your color choices. That burnt copper on that black combo looks PERFECT paired with the silver.

Thanks bud. I'm am very happy with the colors too. It came together nicely.

 

[R.D.P.]

Did you go to a dual FPDM setup as shown? You didn't need to with the stock pumps. Sort of surprised at only 12psi and the tq numbers is also low. But I bet same tune, same setup, you put it back on that dyno in Dec and it will do 500\460. Hot\humid air is a killer. If you decide to do a lower, make sure you read about the potential downside.

Also agree the color combo on the valve covers looks great.

 

[svtEIN]

Did you go to a dual FPDM setup as shown? You didn't need to with the stock pumps. Sort of surprised at only 12psi and the tq numbers is also low. But I bet same tune, same setup, you put it back on that dyno in Dec and it will do 500\460. Hot\humid air is a killer. If you decide to do a lower, make sure you read about the potential downside.

Also agree the color combo on the valve covers looks great.

I edited in about half an hour ago, you might have missed it. I went by that diagram except the extra FPDM. My plan is to do the lower and remote tune it with kurgan, then while I am at the fall prodyno show get a reading in the cool NC air. Just to get good numbers.

 

[CobraBob]

Your setup is coming along nicely. I, too, like the Burnt Copper covers. They are killer with the black paint.

 

[Dominican_7]

Very nice OP, Love the combo and great set up. I was wondering if you powder coated the valve covers and bolts?

 

[71catruck]

It looks great OP, love the burnt copper bolts as well.

 

[svtEIN]

Your setup is coming along nicely. I, too, like the Burnt Copper covers. They are killer with the black paint.

Thanks Bob! I finally picked up one of your shifter gaskets. Very pleased.

Very nice OP, Love the combo and great set up. I was wondering if you powder coated the valve covers and bolts?

All painting was done with rattle can VHT engine paint. I almost wish I would have sent the covers off for powercoat because prep took forever, but I didn't want to take any chances with the color not matching.

It looks great OP, love the burnt copper bolts as well.

Thanks! I got the idea from my buddy troy. His SB has blue bolts.

 

[71catruck]

I just used the vht on my blower as well. I did shiny bolts because my car is black.

 

[RichM1983]

Wow I must say when I read about your color selection for the valve covers I thought that it was going to look like shit. It turns out it looks great! Good work.

 

[04cobruh]

Damn dude that looks great!!!

 

[svtEIN]

Wow I must say when I read about your color selection for the valve covers I thought that it was going to look like shit. It turns out it looks great! Good work.

I was worried about the color when I did the brakes. After those turned out good I knew the valve covers would look great also.

Damn dude that looks great!!!

Thanks bud!

 

[Mystic03]

good build! but why do people still mess with the returnless...i dont care what you do even to "bullet proof it" you will have problems...imo just go full return and be done!

 

[R.D.P.]

good build! but why do people still mess with the returnless...i dont care what you do even to "bullet proof it" you will have problems...imo just go full return and be done!

Money. I'm still returnless and running like a champ. Of course I do plan to go return once I go e85 and more boost.

 

[svtEIN]

good build! but why do people still mess with the returnless...i dont care what you do even to "bullet proof it" you will have problems...imo just go full return and be done!

Money. I'm still returnless and running like a champ. Of course I do plan to go return once I go e85 and more boost.

100% a matter of money. I will eventually go return and e85 when the next blower upgrade is due

This will do until then.

 

[Posi]

good build! but why do people still mess with the returnless...i dont care what you do even to "bullet proof it" you will have problems...imo just go full return and be done!

I beg to differ.

Here's my fuel system at 742hp to be exact.

Stock lines
Stock rails
80lb injectors
Twin GT pumps in a modified "stock" hat for 6 years
Bap on top of those
BAP wiring upgrade
Single modified FPDM

With close to 170 (I think more) full dyno pulls on the dyno while logging my fuel system has never even had a "hiccup" to make me need to switch.

Now I will say it's maxed but there's literally thousands of us running what I run with no bap on top of that.

Over the yeas everyone is getting "scared" and upgrading something that's been proven to work over and over and over again at 650hp and below. That's not my opinion at all either it's just what has been done.

 

[Blueline]

I beg to differ.

Here's my fuel system at 742hp to be exact.

Stock lines
Stock rails
80lb injectors
Twin GT pumps in a modified "stock" hat for 6 years
Bap on top of those
BAP wiring upgrade
Single modified FPDM

With close to 170 (I think more) full dyno pulls on the dyno while logging my fuel system has never even had a "hiccup" to make me need to switch.

Now I will say it's maxed but there's literally thousands of us running what I run with no bap on top of that.

Over the yeas everyone is getting "scared" and upgrading something that's been proven to work over and over and over again at 650hp and below. That's not my opinion at all either it's just what has been done.

I could not agree more. Mods listed below I'm at 70-75% FPDC at the very top of my run. My car runs so good. If I went e85 and really was going to up the boost I'll go full return, for now I'm very happy.

 

[cj428mach]

I would imagine running an auto helps a returnless system a lot as you wouldn't get the pressure spikes like you would with a manual.

 

[svtEIN]

Dyno graph added.