Pictures of installing rear brake pads

RussZTT

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This isn't really a full write up but I figure since I was changing out the rear pads I would post a few pictures. You do NOT have to take the parking brake spring off. You don't have to take the entire caliper off but just the part that actually holds the pads.

The only tools you need is a 12mm wrench and a hammer (to loosen and tighten) and the brake caliper removal kit.

This is the tool kit I got from Harbor Freight for $25. I used #5 hub for the attachment
PA025874.jpg


Here is 1 of 2 12mm bolts you take off, there is also one at the bottom.
PA025872.jpg


Put the kit on the screw part of the piston and turn it clockwise all the way till it stops. Here it is all the way in. (Of course, if you need to turn your rotors, you will need to take the other caliper bracket off). At this point, its a good time to clean the sliders and add more grease. Just pull the 2 rubber boots out of the bracket. Clean them off, inspect them then put some grease on them. They push right back in.
PA025868.jpg


This is important, here you see the nipple on the back of the new pad, you must line up the hole on the piston to align with the nipple. If you have the piston turned to much, just turn back little bit.
PA025869.jpg


Don't forget to put some of the anti squeal grease on the back of the pads. Once you got the caliper back on, make sure the clips on the new pads stay inside the caliper, this keeps the pads in place. Make sure as your tightening up the bolts to make sure both sides of the sliders are aligned with the caliper. I just keep a flat head screw driver in between the flat slider and the bracket as I tighten up the bolts.
PA025870.jpg



This is pretty much it. Just becareful when you lower the car back to the ground and expect the parking brake to work, keep the car in gear. When your done, drive the car around the block to make sure the piston sits where it needs to then the parking brake will work fine after that.

Hope this clears up alot of questions that anybody may have. :beer:
 
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old ford guy

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Thanks allot for explaining this, I have replaced the rears twice with many colorful metaphors expended at Ford Engineers while getting the brake cable back on !
 

fiveoh2go

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RussZTT quick question, how many miles were on your car when you replaced the rear pads? Thanks for the write-up. :thumbsup:
 

mysticsvt

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I kick myself in the butt everytime I do brakes for not getting one of them kits sooner in life. They should be a first mod :dw:I have used the CUBE for years.....:bash:
 

RussZTT

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RussZTT quick question, how many miles were on your car when you replaced the rear pads? Thanks for the write-up. :thumbsup:
Interesting you brought this up. My car has 29K on it. I have never replaced the rear pads on any of my cars before the front ones. I was really surprised they needed replacing, especially first. :shrug:
 

RussZTT

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I kick myself in the butt everytime I do brakes for not getting one of them kits sooner in life. They should be a first mod :dw:I have used the CUBE for years.....:bash:
Ya, the kit is nice to have over the cube. The kit has that plate that forces the prongs into the piston to where as the cube you need to push and turn.
 

Jomo1994z71

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Thanks for the pics...my Rears need to be swapped out very soon...nice work...
 

Fastphil

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Sweet, my rears are toast too. I was also quite surprised to see that the rears need changing and the fronts have some life left in them. Am I to understand that the cube tool for adjusting the caliper won't work? Or is it just tougher? I have the cube, and I don't know if I'd buy the tool kit if I can get away without it.
 

BreBar21

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The cube works, it is just a pain in the ass. The tool he posted makes it 100x easier and is worth every penny, imo.
 

mysticsvt

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Sweet, my rears are toast too. I was also quite surprised to see that the rears need changing and the fronts have some life left in them. Am I to understand that the cube tool for adjusting the caliper won't work? Or is it just tougher? I have the cube, and I don't know if I'd buy the tool kit if I can get away without it.

Please trust me when I say...get the kit. If you plan on being in the Mustang for a while..just do it.


***this post approved by Nike*** :thumbsup:
 

RussZTT

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Glad this can help some of you. If you have any questions, im just a PM away. :rockon:
 

moot09

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Ive always used a small piece of wood and a c clamp to push the cylinder back in... good write up though
 

Fastphil

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Alright, I did this yesterday and have a couple of corrections and bits of info to add.

-You CAN turn the piston back the other way to align the notches once you've bottomed it out. You just have to ensure that the metal plate on your tool is not completely tight against the other side of the caliper.

-Once you've got the new pads in and the caliper back on, make sure that the slider (as you can see in the 4th pic of the OP) has one of the flat sides properly set in the notch on the caliper, otherwise it will not allow the bolt to be competely tightened properly. You'll see what I mean when you're putting it back together.

Other than that, the OP got it all. There's not much room to move the caliper around once it's off the rotor because of the parking brake cable, but it's an easy job.

As a side note, my car had 54,000km (about 33,000 miles) on it when I changed them.
 
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