The brembo sports you picked out are good.
I dont like the HPS on such a heavy car.. HP+ will out perform any street pad, but there is more dust and possibly a little noise. It doesn't sounds like you need the HP+ though.
Ordering my brakes today! Few last minute questions..
- Thread starter d4a3m2o1n
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The brembo sports you picked out are good.
I dont like the HPS on such a heavy car.. HP+ will out perform any street pad, but there is more dust and possibly a little noise. It doesn't sounds like you need the HP+ though.
^ Luddite
Higher coefficient of friction. That's how. That's why pads don't last as long on D/S rotors. DUH!
^ Luddite
Higher coefficient of friction. That's how. That's why pads don't last as long on D/S rotors. DUH!
You need to go back to engineering school
There are so many other factors at work here. You want as much thermal mass in the rotor as possible to keep temperatures down and let the rotor better deal with heat.. That is why drilled rotors develop small cracks over time and some (especially Baer's) crack down the entire firepath.
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You need to go back to engineering school
One of us does. That's for sure.
:loser:
I made this last year but I have not felt the need to share it very often.
I believe I have found a worthy thread.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8unyxxQb73g"]YouTube - Jimmysidecarr in "to improve my braking performance."[/nomedia]
My recommendations-> Brembos have dried up and seem to no longer be available, -> Plain Centric rotors(or Powerslots) and Carbotech Bobcat compound street pads.
The only way any stock sized 13" Cobra rotor will improve braking is if it's lighter, but two piece(Aluminum hat) rotors are expensive. Less rotating mass is always a worthy improvement though. Just know that the improvement is coming from less rotating mass, not holes or slots.
Holes and slots remove friction surface area and provide no additional brake torque. Furthermore the out gassing of brake pads, which originally caused the makers to respond with CAST IN holes on race cars, is a 60s, 70s and early 80s braking issue that no longer exists in todays pad compounds.
I believe I have found a worthy thread.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8unyxxQb73g"]YouTube - Jimmysidecarr in "to improve my braking performance."[/nomedia]
My recommendations-> Brembos have dried up and seem to no longer be available, -> Plain Centric rotors(or Powerslots) and Carbotech Bobcat compound street pads.
The only way any stock sized 13" Cobra rotor will improve braking is if it's lighter, but two piece(Aluminum hat) rotors are expensive. Less rotating mass is always a worthy improvement though. Just know that the improvement is coming from less rotating mass, not holes or slots.
Holes and slots remove friction surface area and provide no additional brake torque. Furthermore the out gassing of brake pads, which originally caused the makers to respond with CAST IN holes on race cars, is a 60s, 70s and early 80s braking issue that no longer exists in todays pad compounds.
Well im not the one who thought because it wears out quicker it surely must be working better!
So that leaves you.:bored:
Centric directional rotors and centric ceramic pads here, so far the best brakes I have ever used. And 375.00 shipped to my door in 4 days... For all four corners....:banana::beer:
POSIQUIET - Centric Parts
DRUMS AND ROTORS - Centric Parts
POSIQUIET - Centric Parts
DRUMS AND ROTORS - Centric Parts
Sooooo ... the pads go away faster because ... Oh yeah, because they're being abraided more aggessively ;-)
You can't argue with the fact that they perform better. The empirical evidence is out there for your reading pleasure.
Racecars don't run D/S rotors for their bling factor. They run them because they perform better than blanks.
All those rotors are on professional racecars. Top row are all on pro NASCAR and circle track cars. Bottom row are on GT3 cars.
:thumbsup:
Something for your reading pleasure, just in case you're too lazy to try finding the info for yourself ...
"There are many claims as to the benefits of drilled vs slotted rotors on stopping power. This guide is intended to provide some facts about drilled and slotted rotors. As a member of the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), I was pleased to see a paper "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" by two GM engineers published in 2006. They examined three vehicle platforms with cross-drilled rotors vs standard rotors to measure convection cooling capability, fade characteristics, wet braking, pedal feel and lining wear. The result is summarized as follows:
1. For the sports sedan, the coefficient of friction was 21% higher for drilled rotors than standard front rotors at 340F and higher using 15 brake snubs at 62mph. The track simulated 124 mph fade test showed 37% better brake output for drilled rotors. The drilled rotor brake temperature was about 150 degrees cooler.
2. For the performance car, the coefficient of friction was significantly higher for drilled rotors especially at high temperature.
3. Wet braking at high pedal pressure was the same for drilled or standard rotors. Wet braking is not significantly improved by drilled rotors.
4. Pedal force was much more consistent with drilled rotors over the brake temperature range. That is, to stop at the same deceleration rate, the driver does not need to modulate pedal pressure based on different brake temperatures. This reduces driver fatigue and improves brake response.
The authors also reported that drilled rotors prevent pad resin glazing on the rotor. So we now have solid evidence that drilled rotors have benefits over standard rotors. However, I have not found any published paper to show how slots affect brake output. So I reviewed inertial dynamometer tests using ISO NWI 26867 from Link Testing in Detroit with slotted rotors vs standard rotors. The results showed no significant difference in the coefficient of friction during the fade sections, hot stop section or pedal sensitivity portion of the test. My hypothesis is that slotted rotors do not contribute to rotor cooling whereas drilled rotors improve convection heat transfer to cool rotors and reduce brake fade. I should also point out that the pad lining wear for the slotted rotor was very severe during the test, i.e. the pad was chewed up over 20% more than the lining with stock rotors. While I believe that slots will help remove gas and debri from under the pad, I am not sure that this has a significant effect on brake torque for normal street driving. Perhaps the effect of slotted rotors is more significant on the race track, and conversely, I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving. For most drivers, I recommend drilled rotors over slotted rotors, and this conclusion is supported by the fact that Corvette, Ford GT, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW come with OEM drilled rotors."
Of course, what do GM engineers know?
"There are many claims as to the benefits of drilled vs slotted rotors on stopping power. This guide is intended to provide some facts about drilled and slotted rotors. As a member of the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), I was pleased to see a paper "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" by two GM engineers published in 2006. They examined three vehicle platforms with cross-drilled rotors vs standard rotors to measure convection cooling capability, fade characteristics, wet braking, pedal feel and lining wear. The result is summarized as follows:
1. For the sports sedan, the coefficient of friction was 21% higher for drilled rotors than standard front rotors at 340F and higher using 15 brake snubs at 62mph. The track simulated 124 mph fade test showed 37% better brake output for drilled rotors. The drilled rotor brake temperature was about 150 degrees cooler.
2. For the performance car, the coefficient of friction was significantly higher for drilled rotors especially at high temperature.
3. Wet braking at high pedal pressure was the same for drilled or standard rotors. Wet braking is not significantly improved by drilled rotors.
4. Pedal force was much more consistent with drilled rotors over the brake temperature range. That is, to stop at the same deceleration rate, the driver does not need to modulate pedal pressure based on different brake temperatures. This reduces driver fatigue and improves brake response.
The authors also reported that drilled rotors prevent pad resin glazing on the rotor. So we now have solid evidence that drilled rotors have benefits over standard rotors. However, I have not found any published paper to show how slots affect brake output. So I reviewed inertial dynamometer tests using ISO NWI 26867 from Link Testing in Detroit with slotted rotors vs standard rotors. The results showed no significant difference in the coefficient of friction during the fade sections, hot stop section or pedal sensitivity portion of the test. My hypothesis is that slotted rotors do not contribute to rotor cooling whereas drilled rotors improve convection heat transfer to cool rotors and reduce brake fade. I should also point out that the pad lining wear for the slotted rotor was very severe during the test, i.e. the pad was chewed up over 20% more than the lining with stock rotors. While I believe that slots will help remove gas and debri from under the pad, I am not sure that this has a significant effect on brake torque for normal street driving. Perhaps the effect of slotted rotors is more significant on the race track, and conversely, I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving. For most drivers, I recommend drilled rotors over slotted rotors, and this conclusion is supported by the fact that Corvette, Ford GT, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW come with OEM drilled rotors."
Of course, what do GM engineers know?
I run HPS front and back, they are quiet and stop solid, both on the street and the track.
Especially the Baers, huh? Show me the cracks ...
Nailed hard lots of times on the track. Worn down, but no cracks anywhere. Recently replaced with an identical fresh Baer rotor because I was so pleased with the way this one performed.
Let me know when you're done talking out your arse.
:bash:
d4a3m2o1n
Banned
Ordered Now DOT4 brake fluid is what i should use correct?
Now DOT4 brake fluid is what i should use correct?Ordered
motul 600! :beer:
d4a3m2o1n
Banned
motul 600? never heard of that.. guess ill look into it thanks
Especially the Baers, huh? Show me the cracks ...
Nailed hard lots of times on the track. Worn down, but no cracks anywhere. Recently replaced with an identical fresh Baer rotor because I was so pleased with the way this one performed.
Let me know when you're done talking out your arse.
:bash:
Right here. These have 1 foot in the grave.... Obviously you aren't drving fast enough. When you start fading the anodizing of the rotor hat due to heat... we can talk about why your car shimmys under braking..
Here are the 1 piece rotors getting ready to crack in half
My friend put a 1/16 inch crack all the way through the firepath of his front Bear 1 piece drilled/slotted Cobra rotors at Willow Springs last fall. I dont have the pics, but it was on a 3100 94 GT with 300 HP and NT05 tires running HP+ pads.. That was WITH brake cooling ducts.
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Not to worry. I'm going plenty fast enough. All my old hats have faded from black to purple.
I've never seen an EradiSpeed torn up like yours is. Nice driving. You must have had to REALLY work at that. All I can offer you is this suggestion: stop using the middle pedal as a foot rest.
BTW, I'm still waiting for an apology for your BS about the coefficient of friction being lower on a drilled rotor.
:lol1:
EDIT: Upon closer examination, it looks like your rotor is severely worn, beyond spec. Try replacing them a little more often.
I've never seen an EradiSpeed torn up like yours is. Nice driving. You must have had to REALLY work at that. All I can offer you is this suggestion: stop using the middle pedal as a foot rest.
BTW, I'm still waiting for an apology for your BS about the coefficient of friction being lower on a drilled rotor.
:lol1:
EDIT: Upon closer examination, it looks like your rotor is severely worn, beyond spec. Try replacing them a little more often.
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Sooooo ... the pads go away faster because ... Oh yeah, because they're being abraided more aggessively ;-)
You can't argue with the fact that they perform better. The empirical evidence is out there for your reading pleasure.
Racecars don't run D/S rotors for their bling factor. They run them because they perform better than blanks.
All those rotors are on professional racecars. Top row are all on pro NASCAR and circle track cars. Bottom row are on GT3 cars.
:thumbsup:
Again genius, we are not talking about RACE cars here.... we are talking about Mustang brakes, specifically street mustang brakes. Not Nascar brakes, Not Audi carbon ceramic brakes, not GT3 brakes. All of those incorporate much thicker rotors than a street car and generate enough heat to make the rotors glow red. At those temps, drilled/slotted rotors can help.
First if you go back and read I did not disagree with you about the coefficient of friction, so why would I apologize for that? You said flatly that drilled rotors would produce shorter stopping distances due solely to the difference in coefficient of friction... You did not show me evidence of that and the report you referenced did not mention anything about that or give any hard data. The info you posted also said that drilled rotors would be better for highway driving. I see nothing there that relates to any kind of on track performance testing, or longevity of equipment.
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:bs: WTF do you think stops your car??? Magic?
FRICTION!
That's what makes your car stop. Transforming kinetic energy into heat via friction.
You sir, will obviously continue to believe what you want, AND you will continue to get the braking performance that you deserve!
The point there, GENIUS, was that if blanks produced comparable performance THOSE cars, which LIVE AND DIE by their performance, would be using blanks. You obviously didn't make the connection, so I'm connecting the dots for you.
:lol1:
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