No, its a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter.. I just phucked up pretty bad.. oh wellstangbear427 said:
Oops!!! I blew up my engine...
- Thread starter 03BlownSnake
- Start date
93 sssSVT said:
I bought it through these guys...
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/valve_covers/ford.html
#65-345
They are pretty nice, but I had to use some epoxy on the passenger side cover, due to the oil fill tube was leaking a bit of oil where it was welded to the cover. But it was eeasy to fix and they do look good in person. The epoxy was put in on the bottom, so you cant tell at all anyway.
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Meh, I can forgive it with a Tri-Ax. I hated mine the entire time I had it. Better than stock, but far from perfect IMO- although most seem to disagree with me on that. I couldn't wait to get rid of it and get another Pro5.003BlownSnake said:
Im not to thrilled with the Tri-Ax either.
MGWBADBOYSPACK said:
You've got the MGW? Like it? I've yet to hear someone say anything bad about it, but not many people seem to have it yet. I've been toying with the idea of getting one for the T5 in my Cobra, since I don't know when I'll be able to get my TKO out of the old GT and into it. I miss that setup bad, but other things are more important first... like this terrible stock suspension. I've really gotta start ripping that GT apart soon.
Mgw ?
i like mgw over the the tri-ax and pro5.0's. my car came with a pro 5.0 but i cant wait to eventually get it off.
also, regarding custom cams. do it. i'm not sure why the guys on here think that Ed only makes high rpm cams, because thats pretty much BS. i've known a few people here in town (and of course tons of internet people) that run them, and they are far from high-revving only cams. my buddies that ran them had the basic afr/cobra intake type combo's and were all street cars.
me personall, i went with Jay Allen and highly recommend him. my track heat/systemax/302 combo seems to run pretty stout for not having it tuned, mis-matching maf/injectors, and stock 2.73's on 18's.
also, regarding custom cams. do it. i'm not sure why the guys on here think that Ed only makes high rpm cams, because thats pretty much BS. i've known a few people here in town (and of course tons of internet people) that run them, and they are far from high-revving only cams. my buddies that ran them had the basic afr/cobra intake type combo's and were all street cars.
me personall, i went with Jay Allen and highly recommend him. my track heat/systemax/302 combo seems to run pretty stout for not having it tuned, mis-matching maf/injectors, and stock 2.73's on 18's.
I regard Jay Allen, Ed Curtis, and Buddy Rawls as well respected custom cams gurus.
From what I've seen, Ed's stuff is a little more race oriented. Not just in cam, but in supporting equipment (1-3/4" headers for a mild stroker street car, for instance). I don't care for Ed's attitude on the forums he posts on, but that's just a personal preference for me.
If I were in the custom cam market, Buddy Rawls would be my choice, with Jay Allen being a close second. Both of those guys are very helpful, personable, and have winning results as well.
On to the factory rev limiter - It does indeed pull fuel, but not like you think. Once the rev limiter is activated, the eec pulls ALL the fuel from every other cylinder, essentially making that cylinder a dead cylinder, as opposed to being a lean cylinder. Unless you have a leaky injector, or are overly rich when the rev limiter hits, you aren't going to hurt your motor with the factory rev limit. In fact, a lot of people like a fuel limiting rev limiter, as opposed to an ignition type rev limiter (ignition type throws fuel in a cylinder and sends it on out the exhaust unburnt, giving some people worry about cylinder wash).
Anyhow, I digress. Glad you figured out your problem.
From what I've seen, Ed's stuff is a little more race oriented. Not just in cam, but in supporting equipment (1-3/4" headers for a mild stroker street car, for instance). I don't care for Ed's attitude on the forums he posts on, but that's just a personal preference for me.
If I were in the custom cam market, Buddy Rawls would be my choice, with Jay Allen being a close second. Both of those guys are very helpful, personable, and have winning results as well.
On to the factory rev limiter - It does indeed pull fuel, but not like you think. Once the rev limiter is activated, the eec pulls ALL the fuel from every other cylinder, essentially making that cylinder a dead cylinder, as opposed to being a lean cylinder. Unless you have a leaky injector, or are overly rich when the rev limiter hits, you aren't going to hurt your motor with the factory rev limit. In fact, a lot of people like a fuel limiting rev limiter, as opposed to an ignition type rev limiter (ignition type throws fuel in a cylinder and sends it on out the exhaust unburnt, giving some people worry about cylinder wash).
Anyhow, I digress. Glad you figured out your problem.
buddy is a good choice as well, and i've seen some impressive cars come out his cam builds.
this is the first i've heard of ed being a more race orientated choice. imo, its the customer asking for that. the cam is built for the application. not trying to start a pissing match, just stating what i've personally seen and going off of conversations had with him(Ed) and Jay, and going off friends that have used both as well.
this is the first i've heard of ed being a more race orientated choice. imo, its the customer asking for that. the cam is built for the application. not trying to start a pissing match, just stating what i've personally seen and going off of conversations had with him(Ed) and Jay, and going off friends that have used both as well.
Yep, it's all about perception. My personal opinion about being more race oriented than anything, as some don't think that, some do.
This is just things I have noticed on his speced combos, vs. Buddy's or Jay's. Buddy, I think, prob. has the best grip on drivability with Ford EEC's, from what I've seen. He knows what works and what doesn't when it comes to drivability.
I've seen limited examples of Jay's stuff - I prob. lean more toward Buddy's just because another friend of mine has one of his cams in a v8 powered volvo, and it is an AWESOME combo.
No attempt at starting a pissing match either. Just a nice debate about diff. cam guys. Now, start this same thread on the corral, and a pissing match will crank up quickly. :lol:
This is just things I have noticed on his speced combos, vs. Buddy's or Jay's. Buddy, I think, prob. has the best grip on drivability with Ford EEC's, from what I've seen. He knows what works and what doesn't when it comes to drivability.
I've seen limited examples of Jay's stuff - I prob. lean more toward Buddy's just because another friend of mine has one of his cams in a v8 powered volvo, and it is an AWESOME combo.
No attempt at starting a pissing match either. Just a nice debate about diff. cam guys. Now, start this same thread on the corral, and a pissing match will crank up quickly. :lol:
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Richard.... on the Ford rev limiter, it almost has to be making an extremely lean fuel condition when it takes fuel away from a cylinder that is still firing. Even if it totally kills fuel to that cylinder there will always be enough unburnt fuel in the cylinder for the spark to ignite. On my 347 Coupe I still retained the factory rev limiter.... if I just momentarily bumped the rev limiter while making a pass the water temp would skyrocket. The car would also run like crap (power wise) afterwards unless I disconnected the battery and let the ecm clear out. It had to have been picking up an extremely lean conditon in the cylinders I would think for the ecm to be compensating so much.
On the Ed Curtis cams... I have had some experience with them, they have all run like crap on the street and streetability. They feel to me just like a Bennett cammed car I had. It was a dog on the street. It only ran good at the track where you could leave at 6k rpms and keep the rpms between 4K-6500 on the track, otherwise a stock 5.0 with just 3.73s could pull it in streetlight wars
On the Ed Curtis cams... I have had some experience with them, they have all run like crap on the street and streetability. They feel to me just like a Bennett cammed car I had. It was a dog on the street. It only ran good at the track where you could leave at 6k rpms and keep the rpms between 4K-6500 on the track, otherwise a stock 5.0 with just 3.73s could pull it in streetlight wars
Thanks for tha all the info guys.
I called Crane's tech line today and I was pretty much told I wouldn't gain much from going from the cam I have now, the 2031 to the one I linked earlier in a post. #449591. He pretty much told me I would have trouble due to the low vacuum it would create and my processor would have hard time working properly. That it would not make tons of more power over the 2031 and It would only show an increase at the dyno, but I wouldn't even be able to feel the difference.
He told me being its already a blower cam and I am only pushing 8 psi MAX, on a cold day, lol, I should be inversting in a better blower and bump up the boost to make more horsepower. That make any sense to you guys?
I will admit, the car is fun to drive, it drives really smoth, the power is definately nice, comes up strong up top, breaks loose anytime I want down low too. It really drives like a stock Cobra, no bucking/jerking when cruising and it does have enough of a lope to tell its modified. I really just wanted that lope at idle to sound more mean, but if I am going to sacrice driveability and it wont be any fun to drive, then screw it, I will upgrade my blower instead and get rid of the Powerdyne. Any good blower suggestions?
Regarding the rev limiter...The PCM is chipped, would that have affected it or moved it up some? I really dont remember my tuner ever telling me I had one or at what RPM. And looking at my dyno sheet, my power always falls off around 6300 or so. But I know for a fact that my tach went way over 7k rpms, so I dont know. Anyways, that should be fixed, I got a new MSD 6al box... Anyone have any opnions on it? Works good? bad?
I called Crane's tech line today and I was pretty much told I wouldn't gain much from going from the cam I have now, the 2031 to the one I linked earlier in a post. #449591. He pretty much told me I would have trouble due to the low vacuum it would create and my processor would have hard time working properly. That it would not make tons of more power over the 2031 and It would only show an increase at the dyno, but I wouldn't even be able to feel the difference.
He told me being its already a blower cam and I am only pushing 8 psi MAX, on a cold day, lol, I should be inversting in a better blower and bump up the boost to make more horsepower. That make any sense to you guys?
I will admit, the car is fun to drive, it drives really smoth, the power is definately nice, comes up strong up top, breaks loose anytime I want down low too. It really drives like a stock Cobra, no bucking/jerking when cruising and it does have enough of a lope to tell its modified. I really just wanted that lope at idle to sound more mean, but if I am going to sacrice driveability and it wont be any fun to drive, then screw it, I will upgrade my blower instead and get rid of the Powerdyne. Any good blower suggestions?
Regarding the rev limiter...The PCM is chipped, would that have affected it or moved it up some? I really dont remember my tuner ever telling me I had one or at what RPM. And looking at my dyno sheet, my power always falls off around 6300 or so. But I know for a fact that my tach went way over 7k rpms, so I dont know. Anyways, that should be fixed, I got a new MSD 6al box... Anyone have any opnions on it? Works good? bad?
cobra186 said:
That is certainly a possibility, I suppose. I do know of quite a few tweecer users using that method, without the results you experienced. Plus, at WOT, the EEC ignores any feedback from the O2's, so it's possible the problem you were experiencing may have been related to injectors/fuel pump being maxed. Pure speculation on my part, of course. No way to know without datalogging the run, though.
Clearing the KAM (keep alive memory) DOES affect WOT fuel trims, though. So it's very possible that your tune was off enough to confuse the EEC on what it should have been correcting. Remember that the EEC takes data from closed loop/normal driving and interpolates that data to WOT fuel trims as well. On a side note, a Ford engineer who developed the hardware for the EEC recommending clearing KAM before ANY drag strip run, to rule out any fuel trim tampering with the a/f during the run.
Conceivably, if your combo wanted to run rich during normal driving, the eec would correct that by leaning it out some. Then, since the eec doesn't have a way to check the a/f at WOT, it might apply those same fuel trims at WOT. But that motor may have need MORE fuel at WOT. By the way, this scenario can EASILY happen with an aftermarket MAF, as they are often tuned a little rich at low airflows.
03BlownSnake said:I will admit, the car is fun to drive, it drives really smoth, the power is definately nice, comes up strong up top, breaks loose anytime I want down low too. It really drives like a stock Cobra, no bucking/jerking when cruising and it does have enough of a lope to tell its modified. I really just wanted that lope at idle to sound more mean, but if I am going to sacrice driveability and it wont be any fun to drive, then screw it, I will upgrade my blower instead and get rid of the Powerdyne. Any good blower suggestions?
Regarding the rev limiter...The PCM is chipped, would that have affected it or moved it up some? I really dont remember my tuner ever telling me I had one or at what RPM. And looking at my dyno sheet, my power always falls off around 6300 or so. But I know for a fact that my tach went way over 7k rpms, so I dont know. Anyways, that should be fixed, I got a new MSD 6al box... Anyone have any opnions on it? Works good? bad?
I HIGHLY suggest upgrading the blower, if your drivability is as good as you say it is. Especially if it's a daily driver.
If the EEC is chipped, it's very possible the rev limiter has been removed. However, the stock tach is inaccurate enough to show 7k rpms even if it didn't hit 7k. Rev limiter is 6250, and if your power is falling off by then, it may still be in place. I would check with your tuner and see if he changed the rev limit, but they ususally won't unless requested to do so.
I too, have heard the same as Richard about the factory rev limiter and never had a problem with mine but now that I think about it I have never hit the rev limiter in my car (guess I do pretty well with speed shifting :-D )
Also, if you are interested I am pulling my low mile B-31 cam out to put my big cam in since I am going n/a for a while. It is a very nice blower cam. It 'hits' very well and has good drivability
Also, if you are interested I am pulling my low mile B-31 cam out to put my big cam in since I am going n/a for a while. It is a very nice blower cam. It 'hits' very well and has good drivability
Ok.. so new development... I was adjusting all my rockers, so I decided to pull the plugs so it would be easier to turn the engine over. I came to cylinder 4 and the plug was filthy, COVERED IN OIL!!!!
So, ofcourse Im like, ok, time to really tear it down. I took the head off and found normal looking oil deposits on all the pistons, so ok, no visuals indicating anything major. I removed the piston and only found the piston rings where positioned incorrectly, both ends/gaps where facing almost inline with each other. That shoudn't be right? Anyways, the rings looked ok, no cracks, so I reinserted the piston and torqued it back down.
I was carefully looking at my heads and found something wrong. The valve seals where not where they should be. they where "free floating" on the valve stem. Now, I know that cant be right. What can cause something like that? All my springs seemed to be ok. The oil on my plug really worries me though. The underneath of the actuall valve had alot of carbon/oil build up. Has to be due to the valve seals possibly not installed correctly I guess...
Anyone ever seen this before?
So, ofcourse Im like, ok, time to really tear it down. I took the head off and found normal looking oil deposits on all the pistons, so ok, no visuals indicating anything major. I removed the piston and only found the piston rings where positioned incorrectly, both ends/gaps where facing almost inline with each other. That shoudn't be right? Anyways, the rings looked ok, no cracks, so I reinserted the piston and torqued it back down.
I was carefully looking at my heads and found something wrong. The valve seals where not where they should be. they where "free floating" on the valve stem. Now, I know that cant be right. What can cause something like that? All my springs seemed to be ok. The oil on my plug really worries me though. The underneath of the actuall valve had alot of carbon/oil build up. Has to be due to the valve seals possibly not installed correctly I guess...
Anyone ever seen this before?
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