Oops!!! I blew up my engine...

03BlownSnake

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Well I did it. It only lasted me 5k miles or so. I new that I should of invested in a MSD 6al... Im pretty sure they have RPM limiters. I went over 7500 rpm not once but twice on my car during a pass down the track wednesday night here in vegas. I was power shifting and missed going into 3rd gear, TWICE!!! I had the throttle floored while trying to shift, I missed 3rd(didnt get into any gear), so it reved up past the 7k on my tach, I backed off and tried to save the run, but I did the same thing again. I finally got it 3rd and pulled to the finish, but the damage was done.
After I got my slip (14.2 @ 106 mph), I noticed my engine running rough and had a very noticeable knock. I pulled into the pits and popped my hood, and sure enough, the engine is knocking/ticking pretty bad. It does sound up top though. Hopefully my bottom end is still ok. Im going to to start tear down as soon as I finish typing this :D
Im already contacting Ed Curtis, to get a custom ground cam now though, and already looking to get somekind of rev limiter installed. Any suggestions?
The good thing about this? It actually happened when I have the money to spend, and the girl cant tell me not to do it, cause if I dont fix it, the car doesn't run and she doesn't get to go out, lol.. oh man, life is good!

I was actually more pissed that I had to leave the car at the track over night cause I couldn't get a tow late at night. But oh well, I picked it up and seemed no one phucked with it.

Upgrades... :beer:
 

cobra186

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IMHO there are better cams than an Ed Curtis cam..... His are alright for a "class" car or drag only car. When it comes to streetability his cams pretty much suck. Curtis cams always seems to have a power range of 4K-7k rpms which makes street driving not so fun.

You def. need a rev limiter. The factory Ford limiter cuts out fuel at 6200rpms which will kill a motor quickly especially a s/c one. Get a tune that eliminates or raise the fatctory limiter then set the MSD one several hundred rpms below it. The MSD rev limiter will limit spark on every other cylinder instead of cutting out fuel.

I would check for a blown head gasket first. The ticking could just be antifreeze/water seeping into the cylinder causing a misfire and lost compression.
 

~Ray~

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cobra186 said:
IMHO there are better cams than an Ed Curtis cam.....

+1 on that.

Also a stock computer already has a rev limiter built in @ 6200rpm the computer calls half fuel.

Sounds like you just blew a headgasket bud. Reason being if you went to 7000 rpm with a 6200 rpm limiter you'd went so lean & so high rpm & load I don't know a headgasket that would of withstood that, you may have even bent a bod or cracked a crank but your block I'm sure is fine.
 

03BlownSnake

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Thanks for the info Daryl
I would like some input on cam choices though. Who else could I maybe contact about getting a cam for my car? Im currently running the Crane 2031 cam. Are they maybe "off the shelf" cams that would be better off then the 2031 cam now that I have the AFR185 heads, Holley intake, and ofcourse its now a 331 engine, not 302.
 

03BlownSnake

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oh and by the way, I already fix my problem...
The adjuster for the rocker arm on cylinder 1 was loose, but the valve cover didn't let the adjuster nut come all the way off, so the rocker stayed in place but the pushrod was all over the place. The rocker has some cosmetic damage and the "bowl" where the pushrod goes in is ok, but the outside of the bowl is damaged. I used hardened pushrods and I guess it made a difference cause its not bent or broke. The inside of the valve cover is messed up pretty bad, but only cause the baffle for the oil fill tube goes in there. I just removed it, and worked great.
The engine it self runs great..
 

03BlownSnake

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Kind of hard to tell by the pictures cause its only my camera phone, but you can see the tip of the rocker damaged. I didnt take any pictures of the under side of the rocker, I forgot.
I still decided to pull the motor, took me about 2 hours or so. Im going to fix some other things while I have it out. My timing cover is leaking coolant and Im going to fix the rear main seal oil leak. Plus, the cam change and spring upgrades will be easier to fix with the motor out

clutchwi8.jpg

rockerux2.jpg

motoroutbj4.jpg
 

cobra186

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I have had good luck with some of the Lunati cams on stroker motors.

I would call a name brand cam tech line and discuss your combo with them. You will have to be careful with overlap, duration etc so that you do not blead off boost/compression. You will need something that flows well on the exhaust side too. If you have to pass emissions testing make sure the tech knows this also.


My tip on driving... (not trying to be a smarta$$). If you have missed a gear or gotten real loose to the point you have to totally get out of it.... There is not reason to get back on the car and try to "salvage" the pass. At this point you have already made a bad pass and ther is nothing to gain by beating on the car, you will already be waaaay off your normal good pass. I have seen many racers wreck their car or hurt parts trying to save a horrible pass.
 

cobra186

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Two more things:

I noticed you have 1.7 RR. You will need to consider that in your cam selection or switch to 1.6 RR..... I would switch to 1.6RR, the 1.7RR will wear the guides quicker from the side load they produce and you will have a bigger cam selection with the 1.6RR

For an off the shelf/custom cam that has to pass emissions and is proven. I would talk to the guys at Anderson Ford. They kind of specialize in emission friendly supercharged cams.
 

LazyT747

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I missed 3rd 3 weeks ago and my engine just shut off. It wouldnt start at all. I later pulled the motor, flipped it and took off the oil pan to discover that i bent a rod on cylinder #1 and the piston was comming down and smacking the crank, eventually causing it to lock up. good luck with yours tho bro. Now i have to buy an all new short block or rebuild my block with all new internals including a crank. shit happens....
good luck
 

~Ray~

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03BlownSnake

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~Ray~ said:
I had that exact same cam, it's awesome. It doesn't have any overlap though but still sounds pretty good & has excellent lowend, but if your looking for a high power cam with good lope get the Trick flow stage 2, it is the exact same cam just more duration, lift & 112 LSA it's also made by crane.
So no overlap means no bad a$$ sound at idle?
 

03BlownSnake

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Also... how much of an advantage is it over the current cam I have?
lift: in/ex 107/117. Duration in/ex 214/220

I mean, is this really going to be noticeable and worth maybe buying 1.6 rockers and upgraded springs, cause the stock AFR springs are only good up to .550 lift, they have them listed as only having 300# of open pressure. Im sure all these other cams are going to need more then that. Hell my 2031 cam I currently have is borderline already
 

~Ray~

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AFR springs are junk reguardless you still need to upgrade them, that cam sounded pretty dam good, actually I may be mistaken I think it does have one degree of overlap, it made mad torque & was very responsive, it was a perfect cam if you ask me for a blown application.
 

03BlownSnake

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I just ordered a MSD 6al box. It does have a built in rev limiter. The cam and spring upgrades will have to wait till Monday so I can talk to an "expert" before I order anything
I think I might be leaning towards that Crane cam though, it utilizes 1.7 rockers which I already use. I will upgrade my springs though
Thanks for the help guys
 

stangbear427

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How the hell did you miss third twice in the same night? You aren't racing and powershifting with the POS stock shifter are you?
 

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