Because it is not needed. It is perfectly safe to punch and tap the oil pan in the manner I posted above. Im not a fan of doing unecessary work.
On3 Performance Turbo Kit Install
- Thread starter ModularSpeed
- Start date
Because it is not needed. It is perfectly safe to punch and tap the oil pan in the manner I posted above. Im not a fan of doing unecessary work.
any updates
Sorry for the delay everyone. I was out of town working.
I will have more updates soon, with a lot of pics.
I will have more updates soon, with a lot of pics.
For those of you interested in doing the same with your coolant system, here is the plug I got from Advanced Auto Parts.
It is a Dorman, 02600.
And here it is installed into the tube. I will make it look better with a rubber cap later on.
This weekend I hope to have everything just about done, with some good photos to share. Thanks for the patience!
It is a Dorman, 02600.
And here it is installed into the tube. I will make it look better with a rubber cap later on.
This weekend I hope to have everything just about done, with some good photos to share. Thanks for the patience!
That is really cool man. My bro-in-law and I just installed a gen 2 on3 kit on his stock 2000 GT. The car is at the dyno shop right now and we are waiting on the numbers.
Did you have any major issues with this kit? The gen 2 kit used the stock manifolds, so the first 3 pipes was kind of a pain to install, but the rest of the kit went really smooth.
I was very impressed with the kit. This was the first turbo I have installed. Good luck and keep us posted.
Did you have any major issues with this kit? The gen 2 kit used the stock manifolds, so the first 3 pipes was kind of a pain to install, but the rest of the kit went really smooth.
I was very impressed with the kit. This was the first turbo I have installed. Good luck and keep us posted.
Tha motors gonna blow any way so the shavings are no biggie.
Nice build thread man, you should make around 475 or so I would guess. It'll be quick!
I agree on both accounts. I don't think it will last too long.
I also think it will be pretty quick. I don't see why it won't go 10.5ish at 475-490 rwhp
I also think it will be pretty quick. I don't see why it won't go 10.5ish at 475-490 rwhp
Up to this point, I am simply amazed at the quality, and ease of install on this kit. I have yet to look at the instructions once during the install, and don't think I will to b honest. Everything seems great, and I am highly excited pressing forward. My wife actually mounted my merge pipe, so I hope it doesn't come back to haunt me. 
I still have a bit to go, but remember.....I have already pretty much mocked the entire kit.....so even though the pics below aren't much more further, I already know how it will fit. This kit is far exceeding my expectations, that is 100% truth.
Copper RTV, just to be on the safe side.
In/from my past experiences, you can never have too much of this stuff. It says its good to like 600-700 degrees....but it works on hotside turbo piping. lol
Is this piping not just gorgeous? It is nice and thick, and also pretty heavy. NOT like other Ebay type kits I have dealt with in the past, for sure.
Very nice merge pipe. Notice the RTV....lol
I still have a bit to go, but remember.....I have already pretty much mocked the entire kit.....so even though the pics below aren't much more further, I already know how it will fit. This kit is far exceeding my expectations, that is 100% truth.
Copper RTV, just to be on the safe side.
In/from my past experiences, you can never have too much of this stuff. It says its good to like 600-700 degrees....but it works on hotside turbo piping. lol
Is this piping not just gorgeous? It is nice and thick, and also pretty heavy. NOT like other Ebay type kits I have dealt with in the past, for sure.
Very nice merge pipe. Notice the RTV....lol
That doesnt look like an ebay turbo
Agreed.....I call it a "Jegs" Turbo. Alot of people ask my "Why are you installing an Ebay Turbo kit on such a bad-ass car?"
I reply, "You don't know what youre talkin about, this shit is Jegs"
see link below:
On 3 Performance - JEGS High Performance
glad to see on3 products are starting to make their way to big distributors. looking good so far. how does the copper sealant work? im started to install my hotside for good now and i want to know if i should be using the copper RTV.
Copper RTV is great for fixing exhaust leaks. If used properly that is.
In my case, I wanted to "try" to prevent from having any leaks upon initial start up.....which has proven to be a chore for ANY turbo kit....
Placing small beads around the connections has shown to be effective on many of the On3 kits, where people had issues. Even though my pipes/connections were just about perfect, as far as fitment and alignment.....I feel better not just relying on the V_bands to make the seal.....I think applying thin beads as I did, will help to ensure no leaks.
Hopefully I remember to film the first start up. I am anxious to see if there will be any major leaks.
Great build! im getting ready to purchase my on3 kit for my '98, winter project. I have a couple questions though. In the exhaust why does it seem there are two ports set up for the wastegate? does one get capped off? also what k member are you running? im thinking its a UPR and if it is have you had any fitment issues with your sway bar or shocks? thanks man, and keep up the good work.!
thanks for the advice. i will grab some copper RTV and start installing :rockon:
Swapping from a 90mm LMAF, and external IAT to a VMP Tuning HPX MAF.....which has an integrated IAT. You need a connector, wire and solder. I chose to purchase the VMP Harness, and solder it. They have a "plug and play" harness, but I wanted to save some $$$.
If you are doing this, here are the wires you connect:
Gry/Gry
Gry/Gry-Rd
Lb/Lb-Rd
Tan/Tan-Lb
Blk/Blk
Rd/Rd
The stock connector and IAT, next to the HPX Slot Style:
Connector wires twisted onto factory wiring:
Getting ready. Letting the solder iron heat up. This is a cheapo Harbor Freight piece, and some Rosin Core Solder. I rarely ever use a flux or tin the wires on small jobs like these. I set the wire on the gun....and when it gets hot enough it will suck the solder onto/over the entire connection. Rock solid, never had an issue.
Done:
All Done:
Decided to drill the stat. Here is wher eI marked to drill:
And here are the 3/16" holes. I was going to do 3...but decided to do 4:
If you are doing this, here are the wires you connect:
Gry/Gry
Gry/Gry-Rd
Lb/Lb-Rd
Tan/Tan-Lb
Blk/Blk
Rd/Rd
The stock connector and IAT, next to the HPX Slot Style:
Connector wires twisted onto factory wiring:
Getting ready. Letting the solder iron heat up. This is a cheapo Harbor Freight piece, and some Rosin Core Solder. I rarely ever use a flux or tin the wires on small jobs like these. I set the wire on the gun....and when it gets hot enough it will suck the solder onto/over the entire connection. Rock solid, never had an issue.
Done:
All Done:
Decided to drill the stat. Here is wher eI marked to drill:
And here are the 3/16" holes. I was going to do 3...but decided to do 4:
nice progress so far! real eager to see the end result!
Curious to see the results. Good luck with the kit.:beer:
The forward facing kit for 4V's uses 2 38mm wastegates. Not sure if the 2V kit does or not.
This kit uses 2 waste gates.
Hmmm...which gasket to use to mount the turbo?
I chose this one, as there were a few small nicks and imperfections in the mounting surface, and this will absorb it. Here I am prepping the turbo for install. Chad told me that he uses NO gasket here, just high temp copper RTV. I will use this one, and see what happens! That way people can know what will and wont work!
Here she is, mocked and ready. As well as mocked t-stat in upper hose!
Everything was good, so I tightened the Turbo down. Before I hooked up the oil drain, I fed half a quart through the drain hose (slowly) to wash any metal shavings that may have gotten in the pan, to the bottom so they will come out when I change the oil.
Connect the oil drain, and it is close! I don't want to take chances, so A: I turned the clamp to where the bolt part rests against the piping, to try and prevent melting in case the zip ties ever break.
Here was my temporary solution:
I started to mount the turbo support bracket, but....I ran into what I consider the "first snag"... I am running an U/D alt pulley (BFAP!!!) and an U/D Water Pump Pulley.....and I am also running my belt differently then just about anyone I have seen....well....it won't work for me. I am going to grind some material off, and hope that will do it!
Just a heads up, before even starting to mock/mount the turbo....loosen all the bolts on each side of the housings, so you can swivel/rotate/clock them into position. Then when you get everything lined up, just snug a few down while mounted....and pull it out and tighten them all up!
If you install the oil feed first like I did, you will need to remove a few of those bolts on the compressor housing to rotate it to the correct position.
More to come!
Hmmm...which gasket to use to mount the turbo?
I chose this one, as there were a few small nicks and imperfections in the mounting surface, and this will absorb it. Here I am prepping the turbo for install. Chad told me that he uses NO gasket here, just high temp copper RTV. I will use this one, and see what happens! That way people can know what will and wont work!
Here she is, mocked and ready. As well as mocked t-stat in upper hose!
Everything was good, so I tightened the Turbo down. Before I hooked up the oil drain, I fed half a quart through the drain hose (slowly) to wash any metal shavings that may have gotten in the pan, to the bottom so they will come out when I change the oil.
Connect the oil drain, and it is close! I don't want to take chances, so A: I turned the clamp to where the bolt part rests against the piping, to try and prevent melting in case the zip ties ever break.
Here was my temporary solution:
I started to mount the turbo support bracket, but....I ran into what I consider the "first snag"... I am running an U/D alt pulley (BFAP!!!) and an U/D Water Pump Pulley.....and I am also running my belt differently then just about anyone I have seen....well....it won't work for me. I am going to grind some material off, and hope that will do it!
Just a heads up, before even starting to mock/mount the turbo....loosen all the bolts on each side of the housings, so you can swivel/rotate/clock them into position. Then when you get everything lined up, just snug a few down while mounted....and pull it out and tighten them all up!
If you install the oil feed first like I did, you will need to remove a few of those bolts on the compressor housing to rotate it to the correct position.
More to come!
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