on3 performance 4v turbo kit

[03screamingSVT]

Im going with them to the track if the weather holds out on Sunday to see what the car will do on 9lbs like the dyno sheets show(526/550)

Tune is very safe but that power level is flirting with disaster. They just want to get a few passes before the track closes here as the weather is getting nasty. Weather shows cool air and cloudy now so hopefully we all get a few more passes.

As for the kmember questions, I know he has qa1 on his 2v & 4v cars and believe a few people are running aje as well. Gms had too much bracing by the starter and doesnt allow the downpipe to route though. As 2002gt said, on the 2v setups the upr has a few little clearance issues but can work. Im not sure on the 4v cars though, Ill ask them tomorrow when Im over there and see if anyone is running the upr yet.

 

[97desertCobra]

I'm wondering if it will work with the PSR K member.

 

[Trav40111]

Looks like it also requires tubular control arms.. ?

I'm tempted to toss one of these on my built 4 valve, with a 76mm turbo, crank up the boost to about 20psi, and see what I can make.

Travis

 

[2002mustanggt]

Looks like it also requires tubular control arms.. ?

I'm tempted to toss one of these on my built 4 valve, with a 76mm turbo, crank up the boost to about 20psi, and see what I can make.

Travis

Yep it have to have coilovers.

 

[Tabres]

I wonder if they got their problem with the sway bar figured out...

 

[1Sick2Valve]

I never had a problem with my sway bar. And mine is twice the size of the factory bar.

 

[19mustang95]

I wonder if they got their problem with the sway bar figured out...

he posted a video of youtube, it seems to fit as long as you don't take it off while you are installing the turbo kit.

 

[2002mustanggt]

If you have upr k-member then sway bar won't fit, look at my video on youtube.

 

[99NJCobra]

Ok, I'm a little thrown off after looking at their page. If I figure this right though, the Granatelli K-member, Turbo Tune Chip, and Turbo Kit would be around $2700 for a 2v?

 

[1Sick2Valve]

yup, thats pretty much what i paid for mine.

 

[1Sick2Valve]

Except I didnt get the tune. I think i paid 2550 for my turbo kit, kmember, coil overs, maf and turbo upgrade

 

[2002mustanggt]

Except I didnt get the tune. I think i paid 2550 for my turbo kit, kmember, coil overs, maf and turbo upgrade

Hey man do you have plan to up the boost ? 13psi on 91oct or 100+ ?

 

[1Sick2Valve]

I wont go more than 10 on 91. 13 was on 94. I just put in a new fuel pump and a boost a pump. Seein 15psi now. Runs like a monster. havn't dyno'd yet. But it runs nicely with my buddys 650hp KB terminator

 

[2002mustanggt]

As for the fuel I have 60lb injector and 2 ford gt supercar pumps in 03 cobra fuel tank and stage 2 FPDM. I am hoping to see 10-12 psi with 91 oct and 15-17 psi with c16 race gas.

 

[1Sick2Valve]

What CR are you going in the new motor?

 

[2002mustanggt]

What CR are you going in the new motor?

Low cr to be 91oct frindly as it my dd.

 

[1Sick2Valve]

8.0:1? 8.5:1? 8.8:1?

 

[2002mustanggt]

8.0:1? 8.5:1? 8.8:1?

Can't tell you as I don't know, it's my engine builder secret.

 

[GloomySVT]

I would hope your builder doesn't go too low on the compression. Turbos, like centrifugal superchargers, like things to be around 9:4-9:6.1 compression.

Anything in the 8 range, low compression, is happier in a twin screw environment, I believe, due to the nature of the harshness of the boost.

 

[NV2L8ULUZ]

8.0:1? 8.5:1? 8.8:1?

Wow, I had a bit of insomnia this morning and was browsing this forum and found this thread and another thread that got me pretty aggravated. I've never read any of Suresh's posts until today, and he really makes me look like a f'n idiot. I am the guy doing all the work on Suresh'es car. I'm noone special, and I have a small shop in Vegas. Because I do run a small business I don't have much time for myself, nor internet forums. When I do have time
I'm not on SVTp much, because I hang out alot more over in Modfords but I'm pretty shocked at the disrespect on some of the posts in these threads. I would never disrespect anyone else on any internet forum especially because I really don't know who they are and what they know but there seems to be a lot more disrespect over here than any other forum I've been on.

To answer your question on the Pmas from the other thread, I'm not dogging Pmas, I'm just more familiar with SCT Meters and Mafias and that's what I like to tune with because I can get the car dialed in alot more quickly and efficiently. If you guys like Pmas, that's fine. It's everyone's opinon anyways. The fact of the matter is, regardless of the electronics, it's the tuner's job to get the car to run right. Getting driveability right, have good tip in response and target the WOT Air/fuel to where you want it. I have hundreds of hours into my customers cars with SCT meters and Mafias so that's what I'd prefer.
Plain and simple. If you're tuner like Pmas, that's awesome. Good for him. ;-)

I use SCT software to tune, so when I run their meters I enter it in, and it skews the injectors high and low slope, and air mass displacement for one cylinder and intake volume accordingly. Mafia does the same thing but I have to enter it manually vs. the SCT Meters where the software automatically does it for me. The Pmas doesn't give me data like how much to reduce each thing by so I'm stuck with decreasing air mass cylinder displacement to get the car on the map when commanded air fuel is 14.7 to 1 at idle and the mass air slopes are correct at idle for the injector size. It's just more time consuming for me that's all! Nobody else in town wanted to touch the PMas meter but I took the Pepsi challege. Heck, I took the extra time and made it right and didn't charge him anymore money. When the car left, it made 430 rwhp at 8 lbs with a flat line air fuel of 11.0 at a extremely conservative timing of 13 degrees. The car ran great and he raced it until the vacuum line that connects to the vacuum block that extends to the fuel rail pressure sensor blew off. That caused a massive leanout because the calculated fuel rail pressure is now off by 8 psi.

I didn't install or endorse the turbo kit and I honestly donot believe it's my fault that the engine blew because of my tuning. Any forced induction engine would be a victim of leanout in this situation. As you know he's having a second child soon so he asked me for help. He's extremely short on money and wanted to know if he can make installments to get him back on the road because it's his daily driver. I've known him for a few years and I felt bad for him. I told him that I will work on his car on my spare time. He told me for helping him, he will go out and advertise my business. However, it's hard to advertise someone when you don't know much about cars. Which is why I'm making this long post in the first place!

Back to the point.
At the time we started the build, he only wanted to make reliable power with the power he had. I had a customer that had a low mileage CHP 5.0 stroker shortblock that he was going to sell the guy for next to nothing. I figure it'd be a decent rotating assembly for the power that he was making (400-500rwhp). It was either that or put a stock engine back in. So I asked him if he'd rather have something that was alittle better than a stock engine. He said "of course" to having some that was a bit better. I wasn't sure on the exact history of the rotating assembly so I decided (on my own merit) to rebuild it for him. I knew he was going to beat on it, and I honestly wouldn't want him to go through this again (anytime soon). When I took it apart, and miced the pistons, I noticed a few of the pistons had skirts that were starting to collapse so I decided (on my own merit) to buy him some new pistons. I chose Probes over everything else because the CHP stroker rotating assembly came with a 6" Rod and a .927 pin. JE/CP/Diamond/Manley doesn't offer anything like this on the shelf, so that's what I had to work with.

I don't care what anyone says but there is no way that a 2618 Probe Piston is worse than a factory hypereutectic cast piston. Heck, I don't think a 4032 Probe Piston is worse than a factory piston. People that do...well...:shrug: I guess they're the one with some learning to do (in response to someone telling me that I'm an idiot in the other thread). Then there were a post where people pushed Manleys over the Probes. I personally don't like Manley AS MUCH AS JE's/CP/Diamonds. I like how the big 3 have more underhead thickness and the ring pack is moved further down but I do think a Manley is machined a bit nicer than a Probe but if I'm going to spend the extra money, I'd rather go with the big 3. Case and point. I might have considered a Manley for him but they don't offer a piston with the right Compression Distance on the shelf!
I understand JE/CP/Diamonds make custom pistons and they're better. Heck I've only ran JE's in my customer's and my cars for the last few years religiously! I recently switched over to Diamonds because they're the only vendor at the time that had pistons for of my Boss 5.0 block on the shelf when I was doing my build for it.

Back to the point again.
It cost money...signifigantly more than what he has to budget. I told him, for the power level he wanted, it would be redundant to have a JE/CP/Diamond when you can't pay for it anyways. It may offer a bit more margin of safety but for the target power level at the time, I don't think it was needed. I rather have him keep the extra $300-400 dollars in his pocket for diapers!

I'm going to be discreet on how much he's paying but I can guarantee that nobody else would've R&Red his engine, supplied a new engine and retune it for the cost I charged him (remember, it's being paid in installments as well which doesn't spend the same). Because of the situation, I spent money out of my own pocket to put new pistons/rings/bearings in this CHP short block so he can have a 100% fresh motor. Instead of a thanks, I get bombarded with texts on how he wants to make 500rwhp, 600rwhp, 700,rwhp, 800rwhp to wanting a dyno queen now. And that the CHP 5.0 stroker won't do it for him. For someone that's never built horsepower before, it's quite odd that 600horsepower is only 1 key stroke away from 500.
Heck, wouldn't it be nice if it were that easy?:lol: If you were in my position, you'd be aggravated to with "the people on the internet say..." texts too.
Then he texts he telling me how bad he wants Manley pistons. So I cancelled my order with CHP, told my customer that he didn't want it, reassembled the motor and gave it back. Free motor build for that customer. :fm: Then I sourced out someone in town that was selling a MMR 950 Longblock, and convinced him to sell me the shortblock because it has Manley Components like he wanted and that's that. I took the motor all the way down and I miced everything, it all looks good. So I had the plates thrown on the block, put on the hone real quick, straighten the cylinders, filed a new set of rings, micro-polish the crank and put in some fresh bearings and into the Mustang it goes...(after the two customer's cars that are in front of him are finished:lol1...I don't know anyone else, let alone another shop that would've done this for him. But that's what's up. For those that are curious it should be done and tuned the week after the SEMA show (my car is being displayed in one of the booths so I took the week off to be there at the convention to check the show out).

But to answer your quote about the compression ratio. I CCed the head, the chambers are about 42ccs, Pistons are 3.572" in diameter, 3.75" stroke, .036 compressed head gasket thickness, a 3.625" head gasket bore, -28cc dish in the piston and the piston sits in the hole .011. So to answer your question, it's about 8.9 to 1 Compression which will allow him plenty of room with 91 octane at 13psi of boost that he wants to run. :rockon: I've spent too long typing this. I'm heading back to bed.