Have you passed your cpa? You will make good money soon enough. Another good book is the little book that still beats the market. As a money guy(accountant) I would read everything you can on money and the power of it both good and bad.
Need some advice for pricing an '11-14 GT
- Thread starter ARC
- Start date
Pay your current ride down to a point where you are not upside down. After you get there and you still are sure you want another car with fresh payments, start looking for deals. I can tell you I waited for over a year for the right deal to come along. Commit to not carrying any old balance onto a new note. No ifs, ands, or buts. Make sure you really want what you are looking at. If you traded a car you owed more on than it was worth, now are looking to do that again 8 months later, you have to ask yourself if you really, really want the Mustang. Or whether you just want it right now.
I've been a CPA in Texas for a few years now. I appreciate those suggestions. I will look into them.
You're right. I might go even further and just keep my current car (2014 Honda Accord LX). Crazy to think how swapping cars out really screws me over big time. The '13 GT I was looking at is definitely not the car I'd want. It has too many flaws and is not exactly what I want. I definitely will wait.
I don't know where you heard that 5-7K BS, but that's only for dumbass customers who walk in and say "I've got 20K to spend and I want X vehicle" when they have it on their lot for 14K. Used car profit margain are in the 1-3 thousand dollar range. But that's all dependent on how they acquired the vehicle. Did it come from a trade in or auction. Did they show paying more for the trade in and charge more for the new car? Is it over or under 75K miles. Factors beyond anyone's control create variances in price that most will never understand. I've sold cars, new and used. NO ONE makes 5-7K on a car.....unless it's stolen.
As to the OP, I feel your pain being upside down. I remember selling many cars to people and wondering what the hell they were thinking taking the god awful deal they were offered. I mean, I've seen people but a $10k car and after interest would have paid close to $20k. However, don't let anyone convince you to do or not do anything. Are you upside down? yea, and you will take a bath. You have two choices. Keep the miserable pos that made you type this post until you pay it off or prepare to dive in really deep and be prepared to ride that pony for a long time. I've seen people go upside down and trade 3,4 or 5 times and end up paying $1500 a month on a crappy econocar (like an Intrepid or such) I previously owned a 2005 Honda Accord. I solely purchased it for my job (I am a licensed PI and it was for surveillance....no one notices a grey Honda following them) Fortunately I paid cash for it with high miles (like a quarter million miles) and sold it for nearly what I paid for it a couple years later (closing in on 300k miles) I bought a 2013 Black GT Premium with 34k miles for $26k and threw down $5k on it. The only options I didn't get I would have liked were nav and brembo's. (Nav can be fixed with a Raxiom unit which is what I did) Got 2.99% which made it far more bearable that I thought it would be. At first, knowing how sales in dealerships operate, I basically offended them with what I was willing to pay. They told me I was looking at to much car and said I should look at the V6. I laughed at them. I knew exactly what I was getting into, and I knew that I'd keep this car for quite a long time. After taxes and $900 to extend the warranty out to 75K miles, it cost me $410 a month. The most expensive car payment I've ever had. But I no longer have to drive that miserable pos Honda, and I actually enjoy driving to and from work. I full on admit I drive like a royal asshole in my Mustang, and by god it is fun. You wanna know what they are worth? I can tell you the exact value based on Manheim Auto Auction prices as of today. That'll be what the dealer bases his prices on......what he pays on trades, what he pays at auction, and where he goes from there on retail. Just tell me what year and what options. If you can get on the Ford X plan, or even the A plan you can buy a 2015 for a fairly good price. I personally didn't think I cold afford a 2015 and I don't like the switches in the center console. I think they look like 1980's GM power window switches. I've heard they were supposed to be a tribute to the P51 cockpit, I still don't care for them. If it's what you want, take the hit on the negative equity stretch it out for 75 months and be prepared to stay in that car for the next 6 years. And ignore the noise about the MT82 being crappy. Some of these guys must literally go out and kick the crap out of their cars. I drive mine like I stole it and other than occasionally getting a high rpm lockout on 3rd gear it has been flawless. (Though I will say, don't waste the $400+ on an MGW shifter, I personally don't find it all that fabulous and I had high expectations based on what I had read here) Just take the time to find what you want man, I think you'll find it well worth the wait.
Its what I have seen. The 5-7k(most are near 5k) are what they paid(not including reconditioning costs such as new tires) and what the dealers original asking price is. Suffice it to say that most dealers will not get their original ask. So yes I do say you are correct in saying margins are mostly 3k or less after reconditioning costs and final sale price.
Oh and since you are a dealer can you tell the op what these mustangs(gt, 11-14, less than 15k miles) are selling for at auction?
Oh and since you are a dealer can you tell the op what these mustangs(gt, 11-14, less than 15k miles) are selling for at auction?
Last edited:
Huh??
So you're saying that the guy should go do whatever it is that he needs to satiate his desires for a Mustang regardless of his finances? And you're saying that those of us who saved up and paid cash for our cars are somehow not "doing it right" by not driving an econobox? There is a happy medium. The guy needs to assess the pros and cons. It is very true that there are some people who would tell you never to go into debt for a car, save 60% of your take home income, etc. But the answer to those people is not telling the guy "buy anything that makes you happy". Being car poor is not enjoyable, no matter how cool the car is.
I'm not sure how you read that, but what I meant was if we all made the right decisions all the time then we'd 1)never exceed the speed limit 2)never race stoplight to stoplight with those slow ass camaro's and chargers who think they are all that 3) never have to buy tires solely because we roasted ours off doing showoff burnouts. And so forth and so forth. My point was, in being that I did surveillance for workers comp cases I had to have something no one would think twice about seeing several times a day.....a grey Honda Accord 4 door......100 million of them on the road. I was a miserable SOB driving that turd but that's what worked for the job. I dont' think I could successfully tail someone in my stang with flowmasters screaming for 8 hours a day. The car was paid for, and I didn't really need a car payment even though I knew I could squeeze it. So I got one, and now I'm a much less a pain in the ass to be around becuase I know twice a day I get to drive that monster 5.0 Point being, if you can pull it off, do what you want not what someone else thinks you should. You might get hit my an asteroid tomorrow and be dead.
I'm not a dealer. I haven't been in a long time. However I do still have access to Manheim. For those of you who don't know Manheim, they are one of the largest car auction companies in the US. They set the golden standard for used car prices for dealers. As to your request, enjoy the following. I assume you can all figure out how to read them. Remember that is the dealer price to buy at auction. It includes no transportation fees or any other fees, just the sales prices. You can see the number of units sold with average mileage. First 4 of these are all reports based on a GT coupe. I then added a 2013 GT Premium on the bottom for comparison. (it's about $2k higher) These prices vary a lot sometimes between weeks based on demand.
And just for shits and giggles here is the 2013 Shelby valuation
I hope this helps the OP understand better, and anyone else who can now see how the dealer gets his numbers. Remember, you can fight that price down at least 5%, the dealer will take a sale where they make $1500 or so.....well not on the SHelby but the rest yea
Thanks, good info. I am surprised it is that high to be honest with you. 14 base gt est retail is 33 which is exactly what the base 15 is brand new. It does also show a 4500 difference in purchase price and retail before trans and reconditioning costs.
I bought a 2013 GT premium two years ago. I agree buy one that does not have 3.73 gears if you plan on boosting it. I put a Roush super charger on mine and I like my gear ratio 3.31. Auto or Manual is your choice. I like the look of the 2013/14. I put the rear valance on and a roush front spoiler and the car looks great. Mitch
Good stuff on the MMR reports stang99x. I havent logged into Manheim in a while. Kinda surprised to see values are that high, thats good for us owners lol 
My advice for the OP is to try and get a new car if you can swing it once there are some rebates. i started looking for an 11/12GT a couple of years ago when I bought my new car and decided that for only a few thousand more I can have a new one. You might be in that same situation(One you get out of your upside down car note you have now.)
My advice for the OP is to try and get a new car if you can swing it once there are some rebates. i started looking for an 11/12GT a couple of years ago when I bought my new car and decided that for only a few thousand more I can have a new one. You might be in that same situation(One you get out of your upside down car note you have now.)
read all the replies a few times over. It sucks because I feel as though the '13-'14 GT is my favorite car of pretty much any car out there. My monthly payment would rise about $145/month if I traded in my 2014 Honda Accord LX for a 2013 GT California Special (auto) with 6,300 miles on it. It seems like a good deal..... This $145/month increase could be lowered in my opinion. The dealer wants $16,000 for my Accord LX. My Accord is in great shape and my car is being sold nearby for $21,995 (I've seen it online).
As much sense as has been talked into me throughout this thread, I still can't feel like I might be missing out on an opportunity. I'd be more inclined to trade my car in if they were offering me more for my Accord. They're lowballing. The price on the GT is nice, but the aftermarket wheels are ugly. No idea why the stock California Special wheels wouldn't be on there. I test drove the GT last Saturday. It's pretty good. Any thoughts? Probably will end up waiting due to negative equity on my current vehicle.
Here are some pics of the '13 GT. By the way I thought I wanted manual, but I honestly prefer auto. It's easier to drive and it's a faster car.
As much sense as has been talked into me throughout this thread, I still can't feel like I might be missing out on an opportunity. I'd be more inclined to trade my car in if they were offering me more for my Accord. They're lowballing. The price on the GT is nice, but the aftermarket wheels are ugly. No idea why the stock California Special wheels wouldn't be on there. I test drove the GT last Saturday. It's pretty good. Any thoughts? Probably will end up waiting due to negative equity on my current vehicle.
Here are some pics of the '13 GT. By the way I thought I wanted manual, but I honestly prefer auto. It's easier to drive and it's a faster car.
Last edited:
Please
A6 are for drag racers, middle aged dudes who have back and knee pains, and hairdressers. If you want to experience piloting your car, you need to row your gears.
LOL I had some long winded rant on why what you just said was the most ignorant thing Ive ever read, but I decided to hold back because it isn't worth my time.
I'll leave it at this....
While you're shifting and being all that is man, i'll be comfortable and still able to get down when I want.
Last edited:
read all the replies a few times over. It sucks because I feel as though the '13-'14 GT is my favorite car of pretty much any car out there. My monthly payment would rise about $145/month if I traded in my 2014 Honda Accord LX for a 2013 GT California Special (auto) with 6,300 miles on it. It seems like a good deal..... This $145/month increase could be lowered in my opinion. The dealer wants $16,000 for my Accord LX. My Accord is in great shape and my car is being sold nearby for $21,995 (I've seen it online).
As much sense as has been talked into me throughout this thread, I still can't feel like I might be missing out on an opportunity. I'd be more inclined to trade my car in if they were offering me more for my Accord. They're lowballing. The price on the GT is nice, but the aftermarket wheels are ugly. No idea why the stock California Special wheels wouldn't be on there. I test drove the GT last Saturday. It's pretty good. Any thoughts? Probably will end up waiting due to negative equity on my current vehicle.
Here are some pics of the '13 GT. By the way I thought I wanted manual, but I honestly prefer auto. It's easier to drive and it's a faster car.
Clean car man, I'd hop on it if you haven't already. Found my 13 in about the same shape with 5400 miles on it.
NVM. dealership sold the Mustang (not to me). The dealership lowballed the crap out of me on my trade in. It's all good though.
Last edited:
Phew! Saved by someone else buying it
I am curious though. What are your payments on the Honda, and how many payments were left? How many months were you going to finance the GT for?
I am curious though. What are your payments on the Honda, and how many payments were left? How many months were you going to finance the GT for?
Please
Ditto. I also drive on a regular basis in DC. I hate the traffic/drivers here but I'll still take my manual any day over an automatic. Maybe in a more luxurious car like a German sedan I could tolerate an automatic but in a car that I want to experience driving, manual always.
That all being said, I had a blast driving a Tesla P85D a couple of weeks ago on 395.
OP, I test drove a premium 2014 GT vert with most of the options and really enjoyed it. I ended up buying a base 2014 GT with pretty much no options (all I cared about was getting the 5.0 and a 6 speed) and have been very happy with my car. I did test drive a 2015 GT with Brembos and it made me wish I had the bigger brakes on my car but for most of what I use the car for currently, it's solid across the board. I enjoy my car and I get a lot of complements from random people when I park or even when I'm stopped at red lights. I plan to do upgrades to the wheels/brakes and suspension when I have some extra cash and time to try autocross/road racing but I think for most daily driving/the occasional fun sprint onto the highway, the base GT is plenty of fun.
Same area and exactly what I did, 6spd base with zero options.
Users who are viewing this thread
