Need help with eliminating wheel hop

crazywhiteboy90

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I have very bad wheel hop like alot of people do. Just out of curiousity would this kit along with sub frame bushings be enough to reduce or eliminate wheel hop? Also is this even a good kit? I dont know much about bushings but ive heard that these are the ones you would get through MM. Any help would be great.

Prothane 62033 - Total Kit - Cobra. 62033
 

crazywhiteboy90

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is there any difference between that and the prothane kit? only asking because the prothane kit seems alot more cost effective
 

jrgoffin

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I have the complete Prothane kit in my IRS as well as other MM parts (MM's poly bushings are made by Prothane) and a diff brace. My IRS is ROCK SOLID and I have no wheel hop at all.

The poly is a bit more labor intensive to install since you have to drill around the LCA bushings as well as the subframe bushings, but it works great despite what so many poly haters will tell you. Have been using GOOD poly for 20+ years and never an issue.
 

HURTNEM

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I have Full Length Subframe Connectors, H&R Race Springs, MM CC Plates, Billetflow IRS Brace, Delrin IRS Bushings and Drag Radials and no wheel hop unless the roads are cold. Simple, inexpensive and effective!
 

crazywhiteboy90

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I actually have sub frame connectors and those same springs already so besides the bushings are the cc plates and IRS brace that necessary or are they just extra support
 

HURTNEM

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^^^, CC Plates are needed to get a proper alignment after you change to those springs. IRS Brace is to lock your rear pumpkin in place to make sure it doesn't explode when you wheel hop or launch hard. Sticky tires will make your car hook better, so you're taking a chance of busting your pumpkin, so an IRS Brace should be one of the first mods along with SFC, but you have them already, so you're 1 for 2 lol
 

03cobra#694

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Something else that helps a bunch is swapping out the undersize front IRS bolts out to 14mm or 9/16'' hardened bolts. I actually used 9/16'' (can't remember if they where 4 or 4.5'' long) grade 8 bolts, washers and nylock nuts. Made a huge difference.
 
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jrgoffin

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The correct 14mm bolts and nuts are available through MM or you can get them at a Ford dealer for $10 or so. I'd have to dig the part number up though...

Edit: These are the part numbers I had from Ford:

14mm bolt: W704939-S439
14mm nut: W520215-S440
 
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707svt

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Everybody always talks about wheel hop this and that but to be honest the biggest help is DR not street tires. One other thing is to just know ur car and how to stab or roll the gas pedal and knowing how to shift those gears doing so, I never get wheel hop. Replacing ur bushings and all that is pointless unless its time to or your seting up to drag and subframs will just add mad weight to your car but great if you plane to road race it. Just my 2 cents.
 

crazywhiteboy90

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i hear nothing but 100% positive reviews from fulltiltboogieracing.com might just go in that direction
 

gregorio

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1656015-1289119_this_thread_again_super.jpg
 

04cobra408

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try pauls high performance's toe link bars... i had coil overs and bfg and had nasty hop at 520 /502tq and once i did the toe links bye bye hop! and it handled better too and easy install!
 

1wild-horse

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Holy crap they want a sh!t load for those toe link bars. I just bought 19'' swedged tubes and heim joints for $100. Got the studs from Bruce at FTBR and made stainless spacers for the inside mount. This also allows you to bump steer the rear with a lowered car. And yes they also helped my wheel hop. These were installed after poly bushings, drag radials, coupe springs, etc. Still didnt cure it completely until FLSFC were put on which I should have done first beings my cars a vert but hey, didnt want to weld shit to the bottom of my already heavy car.
 

crazywhiteboy90

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i just got lucky someone i know purchased that full kit from full tilt boogie racing but now is sellin the car. just bought the whole brand new kit off him for 200 bucks only thing he didnt have were endlinks and the irs bracket :)
 

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