need help who to send my engine to get rebuilt

blwnblkgt

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so this week was going good i got my tvs blower with gt500 t/b with my id1000 injectors and my vmp 3000 maf and was super happy until today. i picked up my car from the shop i was having a oil pan gasket done to it and the tech showed me pictures of the oil pan having silver particles in the oil, at that point im like great i need a rebuild, what throws me off a little is if it was a crank bearing or a rod bearing i thought it would look like cooper instead of silver, so now im thinking maybe its the cam journals are getting messed up. any way only way to know is tear down the engine see were this metal is coming from. i tried calling for a reman engine from ford i guess they recently discontinued that program so now my only choice to rebuild what i have. was wondering if anybody would point me the right direction to good place to rebuild my engine my location is in ca. i called mmr they gave mmr 2700 dollar quote for my short block to get re-done and to freshen up my heads 650 for both. if you guys know of any other shops please let me know
 

blwnblkgt

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damn that sucks, i mean im guessing my heads are fine no head tick on the valves but i mean our heads notorious for that just wanted to add new valve guides, my engine only has 69k miles on it
 

cj428mach

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damn that sucks, i mean im guessing my heads are fine no head tick on the valves but i mean our heads notorious for that just wanted to add new valve guides, my engine only has 69k miles on it


My heads are going to L & M engines as I believe they have determined the tick to be a seat problem not a guide problem.

Just remember you get what you pay for. Me personally I hate to have to do rework so I'm sending my heads across the country rather than to a local shop that doesn't understand these motors.
 

blwnblkgt

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thats right i was thinking of the ls7 having the valve guide problem. yea i mean if i have too get the best work out of state i dont mind shipping my motor. how much is l&m charging you
 

blwnblkgt

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i wish aed would build engines again but they stopped building engines, i was gonna have drew put in my new blower setup and have sean tune, ill check out ret
 

blwnblkgt

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other question also what upgrades should i do to the short block i know pistons what compression you guys recommend ?
 

Shaun@AED

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I stopped by Jeff's shop on my way home. That's aluminum dust in your oil pan, which means the engine has run low on oil at some point and the cams have rubbed/ate into the heads. There's no way to tell if it's still happening and getting worse or if the damage that's there is not causing issues and could run for some time. My opinion is the damage will simply get worse over time.

If you want to pick up an Aluminator 46X from Ford Racing along with a new set of heads, or a longblock from Livernois talk to Drew about ordering / scheduling the engine swap.
We don't build engines anymore due to local machinists not backing up their work, but Livernois and FRPP still do stand by what they build, so we have no issues ordering from them.
 

Brutal Metal

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I'd just do a slight milling of the head for flatness and bolt them back on, 67K miles and you say there's no issue..
Have your block machined and assembly balanced locally, reuse your Rods and crank, new bearings, pistons,rings,fasteners OR you could spend $20K for a Livernois motor..
 

svtshadow

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I'd just do a slight milling of the head for flatness and bolt them back on, 67K miles and you say there's no issue..
Have your block machined and assembly balanced locally, reuse your Rods and crank, new bearings, pistons,rings,fasteners OR you could spend $20K for a Livernois motor..

I have seen a lot of people in this forum cut short cuts when it comes to these engines and eventually end up spending more than double of what the original cost of doing it right the first time.
 

Shaun@AED

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Spoke with my partner Drew on this. There's been something that has not made much sense, your oil pan was leaking. Modular's are not known for this. Drew thinks at some point your timing guides were replaced due to excessive wear (heavy weight oil run at one time) and the oil pan was not properly cleaned out so it still had aluminum bits from the heavily worn guides.
This would explain not only the aluminum in the oil pan, but the leaking oil pan gasket as it's not hard to tear an oil pan seal when removing/re-installing the front cover if it's not done correctly.
 

blwnblkgt

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thanks sean, i spoke with drew this morning as well told me to do oil samples see if the aluminum dust does away after a couple oil changes. will keep you guys posted once i send a sample and get the results. thanks again
 

Brutal Metal

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I have seen a lot of people in this forum cut short cuts when it comes to these engines and eventually end up spending more than double of what the original cost of doing it right the first time.

I said OR he could spend $20K on a new motor... I reused my block and crank with no issues....
 

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